bad back = get a light weight 4x5" camera

[Drew Wiley]

I just packed for my next backpacking trip. Just two lenses should do just about anything I need with 4x5 this time: 200M and 300M Nikkors. Gitzo CF tripod, no head, Ebony 4x5, and last of my Quickload holders. Very lightwt and compact. The remaining wt is basic camping and mtn supplies.

[Pete Roody]

"I would also like a Speed Graphic because sourcing an Aero Ektar is on my bucket list. But the AE might go on an unused 4x5" R.B. Super D Graflex (circa 1947) that is sitting on a shelf waiting for a lens."

I use a 7-1/4" Verito in a recessed barrel mount on my Super D and it focuses at infinity. I doubt the AE would focus at infinity because of its physical size that may place the iris too far forward. It may work for closer work. I really like the combination of the 7-1/4" Verito with the Super D. With a Verito, you get a wide range of image qualities by varying the F-Stop from F4 to F22. The lens is small enough to fold up in the Super D too. But a graflex Super D weighs almost 9 pounds! So it is not a lightweight option. I just got back from Italy using the Super D. My Super D, 3 lenses, 4 grafmatics (24 sheets of film), 1 bag mag (12 sheets of film) and meter all fit in a small backpack (Thinktank Streetwalker Pro Exterior Dimensions: 10”W x 17.5” H x 7.5” D). My cf tripod also straps to the backpack. Total weight is still 20 pounds sans tripod.

[fishbulb]

I also recommend the carbon tripod and a lightweight wood 4x5 as the big weight savers.

My lightweight kit is a Nagaoka 4x5 (2.5lbs), carbon tripod with ballhead (5lbs), and 2-3 lenses, two usually being the Nikkor 90mm f/8 and 300mm f/9. With film holders, meter, etc. it's about 15 lbs. About the same as my DSLR, tripod, and a couple lenses.

[Bill_1856]

I second the NAGAOKA 4x5, (which I bought new in 1975). Even with a 5x7 extender, It's still under 3#. A beautiful little gem, drops quite nicely into a Domke F2 bag.

[Liquid Artist]

Don't use the hanging bag filled with rocks to stable your camera unless absolutely necessary.
The reason being that hanging objects catch any little breeze and can start swinging.
Your better off just hooking a cord to the tripod, and using a light weight tent peg to hold everything steady. A rock found close by is all you need to pound in a tent peg most times.

If you can't drive in a tent peg make the cord into a loop and just put your foot through it.

Or better yet, find some shelter in some trees or beside a building so your camera doesn't need any additional downforce.

[Old-N-Feeble]

Don't use the hanging bag filled with rocks to stable your camera unless absolutely necessary.
The reason being that hanging objects catch any little breeze and can start swinging.
Your better off just hooking a cord to the tripod, and using a light weight tent peg to hold everything steady. A rock found close by is all you need to pound in a tent peg most times.

If you can't drive in a tent peg make the cord into a loop and just put your foot through it.

Or better yet, find some shelter in some trees or beside a building so your camera doesn't need any additional downforce.

I would use a bungee cord and step on it but don't stretch it so much that it moves the tripod/camera.

[Hans Berkhout]

In all likelyhood your back will get worse with aging, so you need plan B or start right now with plan B. Rather than reducing weight of equipment now and then again in a few years. Consider Mamiya 67 II range finder with Ilford Pan F in Pyro. RB67 a bit heavier but offers exchangable backs.
Perform twice daily back excercises, see Mayo Clinic site.

[Peter York]

+1 for the Mayo Clinic site. Their back exercises have greatly helped with some back issues.

[Craig Roberts]

A couple of years ago I put together a lighter weight 4x5 kit. It consists of a tachihara 4x5, 8-16 holders, 2 lenses, focusing clothe and a light meter. I can carry this comfortably. One place it really shines is at White Sands.

Craig

[Jerry Bodine]

I would use a bungee cord and step on it but don't stretch it so much that it moves the tripod/camera.

Consider a non-stretchy lightweight length of chain (metal or plastic) with small links from Lowe's or Home Depot, and attach S-hooks securely to each end. One S-hook can be attached to the tripod center column's hook (or, lacking that, can be wrapped around the tripod's platform and attached back to one of its links). With the chain hanging toward the ground, it's easy to form a stirrup for your foot by passing the chain under your foot and pulling up on the free end and hooking its S-hook back into the chain. The gap between the stirrup and ground can be adjusted as needed; then step on the stirrup to exert a downward force on the tripod during the exposure. Rocks, etc., may not always be available at the scene to place in a mesh basket, but the turf is usually present; if the tripod feet are perched on rocks in a running stream, you're on your own.