Fomapan 100 safelight recommendations

[Gary Tarbert]

Hi i am souping some Fomapan 100 8x10 sheets this week , as i have been using a day tank for my 5x4 i have not been using a safelight , Just a question i have a PF712B *7 safelight , I have checked on the web and there is no information regarding this film and safelight combo , Although i believe this safelight is good for most B&W films .anybody out there with any suggestions ? I am very cautious with safe lighting and normally only turn on when moving the sheets from tray to tray

[Light Guru]

Fomapan is a panchromatic film so it is sensitive to all wavelengths of visible light.

If you want to develop film under a safelight you will need to use a Orthochromatic film since it is not sensitive to red light.

[Jac@stafford.net]

Zak said it. No safelight is acceptable for panchromatic film.

A VERY dim deep-green might work for a seasoned professional who knows he must to stay in total darkness until his eyes adapt (usually 30 minutes) and then use the safelight only briefly.

That is not likely many of us.

[Gary Tarbert]

Thanks looks like groping around in the dark is the go , I have a pretty methodical way of processing so will be o.k just when changing trays would be handy

[Jac@stafford.net]

Thanks looks like groping around in the dark is the go , I have a pretty methodical way of processing so will be o.k just when changing trays would be handy

Gary, after weeks of groping in the dark it is likely that you will 'see' what your eyes do not. Seriously, I still have an image of what my hands are doing in total darkness. Sometimes it is spooky.

[axs810]

get some IR night vision goggles

[Doremus Scudder]

Most of us who tray process sheet films do it in total darkness till at least halfway through the fixing step. (Theoretically, you could turn on a light after the stop bath step, but I never have). Exposing the film to light before development has been completely arrested is risking fog/solarization.

Some practitioners develop by inspection; they use a dark green safelight for just a few seconds a time or two near the end of the developing time to inspect the negatives for proper development. This safelight is very dim and a color which most panchromatic films are not very sensitive to. Still, there is a risk of fog if it is used too long. Recognizing when a negative is correctly developed doing this takes practice and time; most of us simply use time/temperature schemes and work in the dark.

"Groping in the dark" is really not as difficult as you think. Set up your trays so they are easy to feel for and in a logical place, and you won't have to fumble around trying to find them when transferring film from one tray to the next. If you haven't tray processed before, a practice run with scrap sheets and your eyes closed will be helpful. The main thing to remember is, except for the time in the developer, everything is flexible-even developing time isn't that critical if you miss by a few seconds. Don't get stressed out and you'll be fine. With a little practice, you'll be just fine.

Best,

Doremus

[Gary Tarbert]

You know it is amazing i have processed many films over the years but use tanks , I even have a tank for 5x4 so tray processing is something i am looking forward to trying . Thanks all for your help.

[SMBooth]

I put some glow paint dots on the corners of my trays so I can see were there are.

[axs810]

I put some glow paint dots on the corners of my trays so I can see were there are.

That's pretty clever. I'm going to try that now lol.

Does the glow paint effect anything? Do you ever get random fogging? (ie glow in the dark spot is too bright or etc)