Expired film & plates exposure, development, images Quest

[Tin Can]

This thread is for methods of using expired and outdated film, glass plates and other aged medium.


I was given, by a very generous forum member a box of old glass plates. A heavy box with many kinds, most sealed. You know who you are. Thank you!

The first box I want to try is 'The Standard''. Box is sealed, size 5x7, Sensitometer 60!

No date on this one, but other boxes, all looking the same age, have expiry date of 1926. So I am going to assume all are between WW I and II. Old!

I'm sure some collector exists, but I will open the boxes carefully and try a couple, a box at a time. No hurry, no expectations.

I find it more interesting to see what can be done, rather than put these in a museum which will toss them anyway in a decade or 2. I will save the box.


How do we start?

Are these ortho? Can I open in Red LED? I suppose why chance it and just full dark it.

Exposure advice, perhaps bracketing with the dark slide? Ideas?

Lighting, maybe daylight is best? Not strobes?

Please go easy on crazy developers, I am not a chemist. I use Rodinal for nearly everything.

Revised pics in post 2 to conform to LF

[Tin Can]

Seems I cannot delete those tiny 1/4 plate images.

Please forgive my faux pas, here is a different box that IS LF.

Confusing to multiformat members.

So legal images and topic.

[Jim C.]

If the box in your second post is sealed, the instructions inside should be informative, treat it as modern film,
as the box says open in a dark room.

[diversey]

Randy: Interested to see your final images from those plates.

[Jim Noel]

I would only use D-23 or D-76 with these plates. I have developed several in the past with these developers.

[Tin Can]

I would only use D-23 or D-76 with these plates. I have developed several in the past with these developers.

Ok Jim, I have D76.

Thanks!

[sun of sand]

Ok Jim, I have D76.

Thanks!

Buy some bromide or orthazite
Both seems better but orthazite 1st choice to buy alone

Use plenty of it per liter

Expose at around ASA 1

Rodinol works well tried it against many developers

[Jim Noel]

Randy,
Unless the box says "Panchromatic" they are definitely orthochromatic which gives you the advantage of developing under a red safelight.
Unless they are classed as "Fast Plates" I would expect their Ei to be no higher than 6-10. The suggestion to use EI of 1 isn't a bad one. A good chance to use your projection petzvals in daylight.

[Tin Can]

Buy some bromide or orthazite
Both seems better but orthazite 1st choice to buy alone

Use plenty of it per liter

Expose at around ASA 1

Rodinal works well tried it against many developers

How much is plenty? I have never used these additives. Believe me I am safe with chemistry, worked in a Chem Lab for a year in 1972 and quit because they whole place was unsafe..

I prefer to use Rodinal as I have plenty.

[sun of sand]

Well bromide is safe at least up to a point
As is most but bromide wasis used to treat seizures
Benzotriazole is not too safe at all but not especially dangerous unless ingested

Btaz/anti fog/orthazite
These have differing percentages
Orthazite has highest % but still use plenty
Like 10ml or more/liter
Can add say 3+ ml bromide same liter
That seems from my limited experimentation to be best ratio
Seems bromide in addition to btaz works better

This causes a loss of speed and these plates will be foggef
Some say print through fog
I'd rather not but that approach works very well sometimes
Real problem is mottling
Can't print through that
These will almost assuredly have extensive mottling and emulsion might lift as well

Cool developer short enough development for proper density
Give great exposure
At these speeds precise timing isn't a concern
Still subjects