My brother that will never happen. Now one of the freezers is for film and the fridge is well for beer and dead water!!! I'll have to get a photo of that.Originally Posted by Vaughn
My brother that will never happen. Now one of the freezers is for film and the fridge is well for beer and dead water!!! I'll have to get a photo of that.
John, I have no choice but to keep it clean as I have to keep my car in there as well! I bought my dream car last November.Jim, I'm sorry but that workshop is waaay too clean. Could you mess it up a little for the next photos?
john
I built a solid Walnut Tailboard 14 x 17 camera as well and it is about the same weight. If I did not do the lamination's I'm thinking I'd save about 3 lbs. Now remember this camera will allow me to do 20 x 24. So 27 LBS. for a 20 x 24 is not bad.
The reason I'm posting this is to dispel any thoughts that it can't be done unless you have a shop. Yes it is faster with a shop full of tools. My first camera the 8 x 20 took 18 months! Almost all with hand tools. This camera was started on the 21st of July and finished on the 12th of October. So 81 days from start to finish.
So I've been asked how big is it? The camera at full extension is 36". The width of the rear is 28", Height at the rear is 25 1/2", Front Standard is 19" high and 12" wide. Lens boards are 9"x 9" and I have a Packard shutter mounted to a reducing board that takes 6" x 6" lens boards. The weight is 30 LBS.
Folded it is 28"x 10"x 22". It fits into my Kondos Canoe pack for transport either on my back or in my double wide jogging stroller.
Add the lenses and four holders and misc and you have some weight to deal with but when you see a 14 x 17 carbon print it is all good!
The hinges for the back were from Rockler and are Lid Stay Torsion hinges. I used the 15 Inch-Pound hinges and these are great for a ULF camera. I have them bolted into the frame via a special box I made from 80/20. The detail shot shows a hinge and the detail of the wood leaves something to be desired when it comes to the joinery. The hinges are 25.00 a piece and worth it as they are very solid. Having the front standard built from the 80/20 allows me to use some heavy brass lenses. I currently have my big Brassies mounted on 10" boards for the Century 8A but the front standard can handle some serious weight.
The camera and the backpack!
Nice work and thanks for sharing. I'm STILL building an 8x10 Around a huge projector lens and a desire for enough bellows to get 1:1 or a little bigger with an 18" lens. This is no back packer. It was also designed around left over marine plywood from my son's boat project and other scrap wood. Tools: radial arm saw and dado head, drill, chisels, low angle plane. Inconsistency in the alignment of the RA saw lead to much hand fitting of parts...some other day will start a thread and post pictures. Point is, with patience, and a lot of it, LF cameras can be built w/ minimal tools.
Where does one get 14x17 ground glass at a reasonable price?
Stone, thanks for bringing this up. I used a piece of acrylic for the ground glass. I went to Lowe's and got a roll of window frost which is like window tint but it is a translucent material that gives me a fairly bright image on the GG. I like this because it is light and if it ever breaks I should not have shards of glass in the bellows which may destroy it. I had the store cut it to size and the frost is easy to apply.
Nice to see that you are not held back by not having the perfect tools. Way to go. Also re-purposing materials is a great thing.
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