What are the various strengths and weaknesses of various fixers that you can mix yourself? Is there a published comparison list somewhere? Or just post what you know.
What are the various strengths and weaknesses of various fixers that you can mix yourself? Is there a published comparison list somewhere? Or just post what you know.
Thanks,
Kirk
at age 73:
"The woods are lovely, dark and deep,
But I have promises to keep,
And miles to go before I sleep,
And miles to go before I sleep"
I used TF-4 for a long time, but now I use Ryuji Suzuki's Neutral Fix—
Amminium Thiosulfate 60% 200ml
Sodium Sulfite 15g
Sodium Metabisulfite 5g
Water to make 1 liter
I use it for both film and paper. Film takes 5-6 minutes and I use 2 baths for paper each for 1 minute. It has decent capacity; I replace it when it starts taking much over 6 minutes to remove the pink dye from film. Paper fix I generally use the first for 1 printing session (which tend to be fairly long), and then bath 2 takes its place. I use fix conservatively and don't try to eke out every last drop of it's capacity. I'd rather have well fixed film and prints and use a bit more fixer.
I also use water stop for film and citric acid for paper—1 tablespoon/liter. This along with the above fixer are both pretty much odor free which makes for a nicer work environment.
I used Ken Lee's TF3 for a while, before just buying TF5, as it is cheaper to buy, if you buy enough, like 4 gallons at a time, shipping sweet point.
Tin Can
I've been buying Bostick and Sullivan's Rapid Fix 32oz. at $14.95 (to make 1 gallon) or 43.99 for 4 of the 32oz. Since I buy from their storefront in Santa Fe there is no shipping-just sales tax. I'm wondering if there is a better product at a better price-especially if I mix it myself. I'm not sure what their formula is.
Thanks,
Kirk
at age 73:
"The woods are lovely, dark and deep,
But I have promises to keep,
And miles to go before I sleep,
And miles to go before I sleep"
Ilford Rapid Fixer, 5L jug (170 oz), makes 25L (845 oz).
When fresh, film will fix in 2 minutes; it doesn't smell strong, and I use it for wet plate as well.
Almost the same reasons here, and the same Ryuji Suzuki formula. I fix Ilford fibre papers for 1 minute, followed with short rinse, Kodak Se, home made HCA, and a 30-60 min wash, and prints pass both tests (residual fixer and residual halides) with flying colours, and as Richard said it's pretty odourless. I also use the citric stop, 15g/l, same reason, no odour. Having said all of that, I'm thinking of going back to Ilford Rapid, as the price of ammonium thio is higher than the finished product around here, and occasionally I wish I didn't have to mix it from scratch.
B&H is kicking Amazon's ass on Photo gear and supplies, especially now that Amazon charges sales tax in Illinois as of last Sunday.
They all want a monopoly.
Tin Can
Bookmarks