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Thread: Foma 200 in 8x10?

  1. #1

    Join Date
    Jan 2013
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    Question Foma 200 in 8x10?

    Anyone have any experience with Foma 200 in 8x10 format? To keep my mind at ease I would love to hear back from people who shoot the orange label Foma 200 in 8x10 (not arista rebranded stuff) because Freestyle currently has a short date special on this film and I'm on the fence whether or not to stock up because I haven't seen too great of results on flickr/google. A lot of the stuff I'm finding seems to be really contrasty.


    If anyone has any examples using this film please post up! I'm really trying to convince myself to buy it while they still have the special.



    Thanks!


    edit/ Here's the link

    http://www.freestylephoto.biz/420281...T-DATE-SPECIAL

  2. #2

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    Re: Foma 200 in 8x10?

    I really like it. If I didn't already have a big stash of other 8x10 film I would consider standardizing on it. I shot a box of it recently. Rated it at 100, souped in Rodinal 1+25.
    Freestyle's film prices are always high. (Except the Arista.Edu) You can get fresh Fomapan 200 from Fotoimpex for not much more if you order enough of it to offset the shipping cost.
    Also consider that Arista Edu 200 is the same as Fomapan 200. That's the best deal in the US.

    Here are my Fomapan 200 shots:

    https://www.flickr.com/search/?text=...26027328%40N00

  3. #3

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    Re: Foma 200 in 8x10?

    I use it and like it too.. But my primary use is for some altprocesses like kallitypes and such... I don't have much of that stuff scanned at the moment..
    Website of sorts, as well as flickr thing.

  4. #4
    Drew Wiley
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    Re: Foma 200 in 8x10?

    There's no difference in the emulsion between Arista 200 and Fomapan. Probably the custom label portion of the film is cut first to pretty much pay for the batch,
    then the remainder for Foma labeling. This might allow a longer cure or seasoning of the brand-label emulsion, which might or might not affect its fragility, but
    apparently nothing sensitometric. It's different, with a very long straight line, and develops quite quickly, but otherwise is capable of being developed to any
    contrast level needed. Not a true 200 speed by any mean, and bad recip characteristics, but that's been frequently discussed. Will handle extreme lighting ratios
    better than any other film currently on the market. The alleged complaint about it being "too contrasty" is simply an artifact of people not having learned how
    to correctly expose and develop it yet. I gave up on it due to quality control issues, namely, scratches parallel to the edge of the film that somehow transpired from roller transport during mfg or packaging. Maybe that problem has been solved... I dunno. An issue that wouldn't even show in a contact print, but did under
    enlargement. This film is a bargain that with a bit of practice can produce stunning images, so I don't want to discourage anyone from testing it.

  5. #5
    Scott Davis
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    Re: Foma 200 in 8x10?

    I used it a LOT in 5x7 for alt process printing, and as such it is fantastic. As has already been said, it builds contrast quickly, so if you learn to expose it properly and develop it properly it will yield outstanding results. Shoot it at 100, and if you're silver printing, go short if anything on the development time.

  6. #6
    Drew Wiley
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    Re: Foma 200 in 8x10?

    I used ASA 100 in pyro, with a very short (6min) "N" dev time at 68F as my starting point. Had a love/hate relationship with this film. It's certainly not as forgiving in tray dev as a premium film like TMY. The film base is nice and thick, but the emulsion surface is fragile and the corners of the film are exceptionally sharp. Next time I might put a tad of photoflo or sulfite in the presoak tray to make sure none of the sheets tend to stick together, and do no more than 4 sheets of 8x10
    at at time, being extra careful. And hopefully none of the film will be scratched at the plant. And not the best film for a windy day. But the separation of the shadows goes way way down there, easily Zone 1 or 0, while holding highlights clear over the roof. If that kind of thing is your priority, this is the film for you.

  7. #7

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    Re: Foma 200 in 8x10?

    Yeah, I like the 100 ASA stuff as well. I've never tried the 200 though.
    I steal time at 1/125th of a second, so I don't consider my photography to be Fine Art as much as it is petty larceny.
    I'm not OCD. I'm CDO which is alphabetically correct.

  8. #8
    Dave Karp
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    Re: Foma 200 in 8x10?

    I have used the Arista.Edu Ultra 200 in 5x7. I rate it at 100 and develop it in Barry Thornton's variant of Divided D23. I think the divided developer easily helps prevent it from becoming too contrasty. This film has a very nice character. For me it is a good option when I want a "true" 100 speed film.
    Last edited by David Karp; 23-Dec-2014 at 17:34.

  9. #9

    Re: Foma 200 in 8x10?

    I just bought a box of 50 sheets from Freestyle (short date special) before I head to Korea for a year. I shot the stuff in 35mm and really liked it developed in Spur HRX. I'm hoping I have a similar experience in 8x10.

    Has anyone had issues with the emulsion scratching during development? I know it use to have a reputation for being a very soft emulsion. Since I'll be developing in trays in Korea, I guess this is more of an issue than developing in a Jobo tank like I do now.

  10. #10
    Dave Karp
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    Re: Foma 200 in 8x10?

    I developed mine in a Jobo drum. For tray developing, maybe you could build or purchase a "slosher" which will hold the sheets in place and separate them while they are in the tray. I made mine out of plexiglass sheets. It holds six sheets of 4x5. Put the sheets in emulsion side up.

    There is a photo of a slosher in this thread: http://www.largeformatphotography.in...0-slosher-tray.

    Here is another version: http://www.summitek.com/slosher.html.

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