Blowing up a Kodak 2D to 12x20

[Michael Roberts]

I've had the idea for a while of replacing the back of an 8x10 Kodak 2D with a 12x20 rear frame and spring back. Keep the front standard as is; keep all the 2D movements--front rise and fall, rear left-right swing, rear front and back tilt. New bellows of course.

I plan to install a 40 inch long bellows, allowing much greater options than the 22 inch draws of the Korona or F&S 12x20 banquet cameras. The original 8x10 2D rails allow for 30 inches of draw. I plan to fabricate a new base--16 inches long, 9 wide--so I can detach the rear rail and slide the sections fore and aft to use the maximum 40 inch draw of the new bellows, and still be able to use the rack and pinion focusing of the original hardware and rail. Sort of like a Deardorff and other models with two rails, one that extends to the front and the other to the rear.

I've been looking for a beater 2D, and just found one, so I'm ready to get started with this project. I think this can be done relatively easily, and could open up the possibility of ULF to some folks who aren't interested in spending 7gs or more for a new ULF. I'm looking at more like $600 for this modification, with most of that going for the new bellows.

I've been in touch with Rudy about the bellows. I am hoping to fabricate the rear bellows frame and send both front and rear frames to him in the next few days. I've got a local metal smith to extend the rear tilt rod an extra 11 inches from the current 11.5 inch width to the new 22.5 inch width. I've got 12x20 Deardorff springs from Barry C.

I figure I've got 5-7 lenses on hand that will cover 12x20; two S&S holders; 3 packs of film in the freezer. Just need the camera.

I will post some before photos later today, and work-in-progress photos as this project develops (so to speak).

[Jim Noel]

What an undertaking. I will be interested in following your progress.

[Drew Bedo]

Well most of the parts are often available on e-Bay . . .Front standard, track(s) and such. I would hate to think that you would disassemble a complete camera for this project.

[Michael Roberts]

Well most of the parts are often available on e-Bay . . .Front standard, track(s) and such. I would hate to think that you would disassemble a complete camera for this project.

Drew, as you can see, this is hardly a complete camera--no back, no bellows. If you haven't priced 2D parts, you might be surprised. From what I've seen each part--front standard, rear, spring back, base rail, extension rail, sliding tripod block, etc., is going for around $100, so it could easily take $600 or more, plus another $200 for a bellows, just to put together a 2D from parts.

[Drew Bedo]

Drew, as you can see, this is hardly a complete camera--no back, no bellows. If you haven't priced 2D parts, you might be surprised. From what I've seen each part--front standard, rear, spring back, base rail, extension rail, sliding tripod block, etc., is going for around $100, so it could easily take $600 or more, plus another $200 for a bellows, just to put together a 2D from parts.

I am relieved. I was afraid that a camera that only needed bellows and a few screws was going to be dismembered.

Baci in the last decade of the previous century, I picked up a 2D at the old Houston Camera Show for well below $300. I disassembled all the hardware and refinished the wod without stripping it. Left the hardware as-is and put it all back. Yes I have priced 2D parts and I am always surprised to see how much they part-out for. I am looking for a bargai- priced extension rail (an old guy dreaming).

Hope this project works out well for you. Keep us informed.

[Drew Bedo]

Drew, as you can see, this is hardly a complete camera--no back, no bellows. If you haven't priced 2D parts, you might be surprised. From what I've seen each part--front standard, rear, spring back, base rail, extension rail, sliding tripod block, etc., is going for around $100, so it could easily take $600 or more, plus another $200 for a bellows, just to put together a 2D from parts.

Having followed this along, I am less disturbed by how your project is moving on.

I do have an aversion to irrevocably altering these older cameras. Not to criticize your effort in this; My orientation is ore towards refurbishing an item back to its original configuration. I view myself more as a cursor or steward of a usable artifact rather than an outright owner of an appliance. While using it to creat memorable images, I feel that I am also holding my 2D for a future photographer, perhaps someone not yet born, who will, I hope, also use and hold it for someone else.

Best wishes in this project. I look forward to seeing it finished.

[DrTang]

I bet


to buy a 12x20 would be cheaper

[Michael Roberts]

I bet


to buy a 12x20 would be cheaper

I guess I'll find out. From what I've seen, even for a vintage Korona or F&S, $1,500 would be a good price if the camera is in good shape and the bellows usable, maybe as low as $700 with no bellows. But then you'd have a 12x20 with only 22 inches of draw, not even enough for a normal fl lens, much less longer-than-normal lenses. So, I've considered and dismissed the idea of a Korona or F&S due to their limited length.

I still think I can pull this off for around $600 and have a solid 12x20 with 40 inches of draw. If you know of a cheaper 12x20 to buy, please let me know.

[Michael Roberts]

Some before pics...

The wood is in decent shape, but the finish needs to be stripped and redone. Also, the brass is badly tarnished and semi-corroded in places. Missing a number of screws and one brass knob. No back to the camera (so, unfortunately, no hardware for a new spring back). No leather handle. The brass keeper for the front standard (the little folded piece at the center of the brass strip across the top of the front standard) has been broken off, so there is no way to secure the front rail closed unless this is replaced. The bellows were shot.

The fourth photo shows the hardware for geared rear focus, rear swing, and rear tilt. I plan to keep the first two just as they are. For the rear tilt, I am planning to add a new piece of wood, same thickness and depth, but 22 and 1/2 inches wide. The controls for focus and swing will stay in the same locations, underneath the rear frame, next to the rails.

[Michael Roberts]

These show some of the problems with the wood finish, including tape residue.

The last photo shows the only metal piece that needs modifying--stretching the geared rod that controls rear tilt from around 12 to 23 inches.