A slight problem with some shots...

[Omega]

The title might be slightly missleading, well here are my problems that i have had with 2 shots on my Super Speed Graphic.

Shot one, i was shooting a waterfall with a low sun, thus it was in the shade. I meterd the exposure (Ektar 100) to about 3 seconds at F32. Well since i haven't shot ektar 100 with such a long exposure time before (well i have, but the film hasn't returned from the lab yet). Thus i decided to ad about 2 seconds to the exposure to compensate resteprostity failure, but well the lens stuck open for about 0.5 to 1 second longer then intended. And now i do not know if the image is unusable or if i can still get my intended image out of the sheet. Also i didn't know if i needed to compensate for resteprostity at 3 seconds. Thus the image might be overexposed. To prevent such problems in the future im asking here.

the other problem with my camera was using Fomapan Clasic 100, again a waterfall (different one from the top one). I calculated the exposure to 4 seconds. Since i didn't know the resteprostity failure of that film, i thought id multiply the exposure by 1.6. Well then the worst case scenario times 2 happened. my stopwatch didn't want to trigger when i pressed the shutter release. And then i had the shutter stick open as well. I quickly pushed in the dark slide to maybe save the image. The total exposure was some were in the 8 to 10 second range. can the film recover such an image with it developed in ADOX ATM 49 (that's what my, more or less, local lab uses for B&W). or should i ask them to pull the film 1x. or is the image totally fryed. I did re shoot it with my 120 backup camera with Kodak Ektar 100 loaded in it. But i couldn't recreate the image perfectly due to a lack of movements on the 120 camera. The camera did not move the entire time BTW, so it would not have gotten motion blur on it.

also if some of the above dosnt make seance, i apologize, i am writing this at 1:00 AM and had a long day of hiking behind me, as well as getting up early.

[BrianShaw]

You may want to get that shutter fixed, and may be the stopwatch also.

[NER]

Ihre Schwarz-Weiß Bild sollte in Ordnung sein (aber vielleicht ein wenig unterbelichtet). Als allgemeine Faustregel gilt, für S-W Belichtungen länger als eine Sekunde, multiplizieren Sie die gemessenen Belichtung durch das 2,5-fache und entwickeln sich normal. Entschädigung für Reziprozitätsversagen mit Farbfilmen ist komplizierter, weil die verschiedenen Farbschichten reagieren unterschiedlich auf lange Belichtungszeiten. Ich denke, Ihre Ektar Bild kann in Ordnung, aber ich bin nicht sicher. Tut mir leid.

N. Riley
http://normanrileyphotography.com

[pj1860]

This link could be useful for reciprocity times for Foma 100:

http://consumptive.org/technical/Fom...ild_Effect.pdf

For counting seconds, the seconds hand on a wristwatch (if you've got one) is easier to use than a stopwatch.

[Bernard_L]

to about 3 seconds at F32. Well since i haven't shot ektar 100 with such a long exposure time before (well i have, but the film hasn't returned from the lab yet). Thus i decided to ad about 2 seconds to the exposure to compensate resteprostity failure, but well the lens stuck open for about 0.5 to 1 second longer then intended. And now i do not know if the image is unusable

So your intended exposure was 3+2=5 seconds and your actual axposure was 1 second longer, i.e. 6 seconds... And you are afraid the image might not be usable? The difference is way below what is significant. Less than 1/4 EV. Just aiming your light meter juuust slightly differently at the scene would have made a change at least at large. Not to speak of your guesstimate of reciprocity failure.

[Omega]

thnaks for your help! also thank you pj1860 for the chart! Well ill see if the image turned out good in about 2 weeks, when i get home and also get the film back from the lab.

[Deval]

Do you have an iPhone or ipad? The reciprocity timer app has done a good job for me on all films I have tested it on