Could you tell me which G40 bulbs work well in the Durst 138S? I got some of the 300w PE30? bulbs to try but am curious about the G40s. How many watts? Frosted?
Could you tell me which G40 bulbs work well in the Durst 138S? I got some of the 300w PE30? bulbs to try but am curious about the G40s. How many watts? Frosted?
G40 150w frosted, 130v if possible. Try not to buy the cheap thin coated ones.
Are the Halcos considered the cheap thin coated ones?
I would try not to buy ones made in the big C, some of the older stock bulbs may have a bit thicker coating, I'd just try to get the ones that visually look like they may be better & more evenly coated. Durst used to recommend holding the bulb up to a light to look for coating imperfections. May not make much of a difference thought, and I'm sure a diffuser glass would even things out. Why not wait until you have it set up and see which you prefer for your printing style and then stock up on that bulb. L
Last edited by Luis-F-S; 15-Dec-2014 at 13:24.
I would get an assortment of different wattage bulbs.
#1 - The highest wattage that you can get, probably 100 or 150 watts. This is for larger prints (more magnification) and printing large negatives.
#2 - Something less, for when you make smaller prints and do not want sub 10 second exposures. Or when you use smaller negatives.
For my L1000, I think I got 40, 60 and 100 watt bulbs.
I did this assortment because a 75w bulb in my M600 was "too bright." Many times my exposure was under 10 sec. So having an assortment of low wattage and high wattage bulbs would cover different needs.
To inspect the bulb, the problem is finding the bulbs in your local hardware/lighting store to look at. Many stores around me don't carry the G40 bulbs, so you can't put your hands on them too look at the coating. And in my case, NO ONE carried the G30 bulbs, so I had to order them, sight-unseen, and take my chances. At least the G30s are relatively inexpensive.
For bulbs You can use reflector style flood lights if you aim them at the filter drawer. Put a piece of milk glass in the heat absorbing glass holder. Move the bulb as far back will help even out the light. Sand off any writing on the front of the bulb as it will cast a shadow on the milk glass at close distances. Limit the bulb to 200 watts unless you install a blower to cool the head.
I built an LED head for my 138S and one of the ways I use it is with the milk glass and the LEDs behind it. It works very well, and is very close to the original bulbs in regards to evenness.
The 138 chassis is remarkably versatile. I've even got a 12x12 cold light adapted to one for enlarging 8x10 negs, a "hotrod" 5x7 additive colorhead built onto another 138 chassis, and will probably pick up yet another 138 in a few days with a Durst colorhead on it, though I'm not quite sure what I'll do with that one -
probably put it where my 4x5 Omega unit now is.
Thanks for all the information, I didn't get mine vertical today, I have a problem with headroom due to a huge pipe running through the space. I need to move a bench that has three enlargers on it and need to get some help.
So, the knob at the bottom of the tube is for critical focusing and there is a locking knob in the back? I turned that knob a little but the tube only moved a bit. The bellows are completely collapsed: How does it lock the tube in place? I hope I didn't damage anything, I don't know this enlarger, have to study the manual some more.
The knob at the back of the lens stage is the focus lock, and the knob on the side of the lens stage is the focus knob. There is also a knob on film stage the allows the focus rail (tube) to be moved up or down. Make sure you loosen the lower on to focus.Originally Posted by Larry Kellogg
If you don't have the manual, Durst Pro provides the best copy at: http://www.durst-pro-usa.com/pdf/man...38S_manual.pdf I also have some scans at my site: http://www.trippingthroughthedark.co...-138s-manuals/
Page 15 of http://www.durst-pro-usa.com/pdf/man...38S_manual.pdf shows all the focus parts. Don't force anything.
The knob on the back is the lock for the tilt on the lens stage. There is no lock on the fine focus; none is needed. The knob to the right of the negative stage locks the tube to increase or decrease the belows length as required for focus. Not sure what you mean by collapsed the bellows??? L
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