240mm 8x10 lens: which is best?

[chris jordan]

Hi guys, another lens question: I'm considering buying a used 240 or 300mm lens for 8x10, my criteria being extreme sharpness and enough movement for some substantial front rise. I'm looking at the Nikkor W, Schneider Symmar, and the Rodenstock Sironar N and S series. Does anyone have any opinions as to whether there would be any quality difference between photos taken with these lenses, in any way? I'm scanning at extremely high resolution and making huge prints, so any differences (including at the edges) between the lenses actually will be visible in my prints.

I'd appreciate any suggestions or thoughts (including if there are other lenses of equal or greater quality).

~cj

www.chrisjordan.com

[Sal Santamaura]

At 240mm, you definitely want an f/5.6 Apo-Sironar S. Needs 86mm filters, but has enough high-quality image circle (372mm) for your purposes. The only modern, multicoated 75-degree lens I'm aware of in this focal length.

300mm is another story. If you can find a multicoated Fuji A, go for it to minimize size and weight. Should f/9 be too slow for you, take your pick of the multicoated f/5.6 plasmats from major manufacturers.

[clay harmon]

My vote would go for a 240 gold dot dagor, and is still in a modern shutter. It is coated, very, very sharp, has a huge image circle, and is not a big honkin lens to put in your bag. I have one of these that I may be selling soon, because I finally got my mitts on the Zeiss 240/9 dagor which will cover my 7x17 easily, which the gold dot version will only do if I center it up perfectly, and use some hyperfocal shucking and jiving. I just can't justify having two lenses in the same focal length.

[Gem Singer]

Hi Chris,

From my experience, I tried a Fuji 240A (similar to the G-Claron) and a Fuji 300C (similar to the Nikkor 300M) that I had been using on my 4x5 and 5x7 cameras. I thought I would also use both of those lenses on my new 8x10 camera. They are nice and sharp, but I found them lacking in image circle size and brightness. As a result, I purchased a Fuji 300CM-W to use on the 8x10 camera. The 300CM-W is a faster f5.6 lens with a larger image circle. Of course, it is larger in size, heavier in weight with a Copal 3 shutter, and it requires 77mm. screw-in filters. However, the lens is brighter than the 240A and the 300C, and it is blazing sharp.

Jim, at Midwest Photo Exchange (www.mpex.com) is expecting a shipment of several previously owned Fuji 300CM-W lenses in the very near future. I highly recommend it for 8x10. It meets all of the requirements you have laid out.

[Stan. Laurenson-Batten]

Hello Chris.

I recently bought the new Schneider 300/5.6 Symmar 'L' MC in Copal 3.

It is by no means a lightweight but the performance in all respects is outstanding.

As yet, I have only used it on my 5x4 Sinar 'P' but feel sure it would perform just as well on the larger format.

[Brian Ellis]

I use the 240mm G Claron, great lens, small, light weight, light price, very sharp. Stop down to F32 or smaller and you should have plenty of room for movements. However, I've never used it to make what I'd consider "huge" prints. I either contact print in the darkroom or scan and print to roughly 16x20.

[Donald Brewster]

10" WF Ektar? Certainly has the coverage for the movements you intend, it is sharp though I don't know about "extreme" sharpness. I think it is a fabulous lens.

[Oren Grad]

Chris -

I have used both the 240 Apo-Sironar-N and Apo-Sironar-S, and I own the 240 S. For adequate movement on 8x10, you definitely want the S. If you tend to use much front rise, you're likely to run out of coverage frequently with the N.

Although I don't have a 240 G-Claron to compare, I do have the 270, and based on my experience with that I'd say that for the utmost in apparent sharpness and refinement, I'd take an Apo-Sironar-S over a G-Claron any day, particularly if you're going to be shooting at optimal (middle) apertures rather than stopping down to f/64 all the time.

[Frank Petronio]

From a non-4x5 user, as nice and small as the f/9 lenses are, I found going to a 5.6 design made a huge difference in focusing and viewing, especially for portraits or fleeting subjects. I've been watching eBay and the prices for big, ten to twenty year old 8x10 symetrical lenses have never been lower...

[Tony Karnezis]

Consider the 240 f/10 Nikkor Process lens. Upside--inexpensive, very sharp, huge coverage--650mm at f/10 and 720mm at f/22. Downside--rarely in a shutter and difficult/expensive to fit in a Copal 1 based on Grimes. Don't know whether they're better than plasmats near infinity or if they're multicoated, considering you shoot relatively distant subjects in color. I know of someone on this site who's selling one in a Copal 1 shutter (done by Grimes) if you're interested. -Tony