T-max Headed For Trash Can

[Paul Mongillo]

Not counting testing I have shot about 100 4x5 sheets of T-max 100. I have shot more Tri-x. I use a Jobo drum and develope no more than 4 sheets at a time in T-max RS. I am very careful to agitate consistantly and the developer is at 68 F when developement starts. My normal developement time for T-max is 5 minutes an d 30 seconds at asa 80. So whats the problem ? The T-max that I have shot unde r low light/long exposure conditions looks good to me. Just as nice as my Tri-x . However, the photos from brightly lit scenes look muddy and those in flat lig ht look flat even at n+1. I have similar results with and without readyloads. I know T-max is a sensitive film and I know it can produce negatives as beautiful as Tri-x. I want to stick with it, but am about out of patients. Has anyone ha d similar problems that can offer me some suggestions ?

[N Dhananjay]

I should check this, but I thought the Kodak recommendation for Tmax in Tmax RS was at 75F, at least for the kind of time you indicate. Which probably is why your negs show low contrast. As far as the long exposure is concerned, I know that once you correct for reciprocity, Kodak again recommends anywhere from 10-30% less development, depending on how much reciprocity was suffered. So if you developed for the usual time (overdeveloped) at a lower than recommended temperature (underdeveloped), the errors may have cancelled each other out to give you reasonable negs. Hope this helps. DJ

[Robert A. Zeichner]

Your development time seems kind of short for T-max, even at ASA 80. At ASA 100, the time should be more like 12 minutes at 68 F, if memory serves me. You may want to consult the charts again.

[Dave Anton]

You may want to check your exposures as well as your development for this one. it sounds like reciprocity is kicking in for your longer exposures giving you the better contrast. but, when you expose with faster shutters (in your brighter scenes) your exposure (for shadows) might be too much giving you flat images.

with regards to your time, even if it was correct at a 5 minute development time, it is too short (for zone system). consider switching developers to something with a longer dev time. this will give you better control, especially in the minus situations.

t-max is excellent film...once you get it. good luck!

[mark lindsey]

forget what Kodak says, its only a guide for "average negatives", is that what you really want? test test test I use hc110 with mine and can make it do anything. enjoy.

[james mickelson]

I agree with Dan. Go out and shoot some film. I hate T-Max 100. It sucks big time but that is just because we don't get along. My working methods are different than others as well. But boy do I like T-Max 400 shot at 300. The real reason I don't like the 100 emulsion is that I'm not as exact as I should be with my exposure/processing routine. And dump that T-Max RS junk. It was made for machine processing. Use HC110 or ID11, D76 or Xtol. Much more forgiving. I have found the 100 emulsion to be thin no matter what. But I have seen superb negs made with it. Don't give up on it until you exhaust all possibilities. You might finally hit on the correct combo for your working routine. You probably are not giving enough exposure to your normal neg at 80. Try 64 or 50 and see what comes out. James

[Chad Jarvis]

I would also concur with everyone else. My development times, and I usually develop 6 to 8 sheets at a time in open trays, are usually in the 10 to 12 minute range with the temperature of the developer ranging from 70 to 80 degrees, depending on the degree of development I'm looking for. Not to mention that full development coupled with the use of hypo clearing agent is the only way to eliminate that damned pink stain from the anti-halation coating.

[rich silha]

I suggest using kodak t-max 100 ready load 4x5 film. Rate the 1st. sheet at 100, then the 2nd. sheet at 80 a third sheet at 60 and 4th sheet at 40. Develop in ID11 straight 69' between 6 and 7 minutes at rotation #4 in a jobo 3000 series tank. Make sure you have given the film a pre-soak for at least 5 minutes. Make a proof and enjoy the beauty of this film.

[M.]

Paul, try Rodinal 1+50. You won't believe the sharpness! I expose at EI125. Grain is about equal to TMax development. I haven't tried XTol(The local WOLF chain stores don't carry it). Mitch

[Peter Hughes]

"Just as nice as my Tri-x"? "...negatives as beautiful as Tri-x"? Uh, why not stick with Tri-X? I dabbled with T-Max films for a while, ended up hating them--soft, easily scratched emulsion; difficult to develop and fix, etc. Why bother. Now I use Tri-X in Rodinal for LF and Ilford Delta films in PMK for MF.

If you're determined to stick with T-Max, try Xtol.

BTW, if you're out of patients, maybe you should give up your medical practice.

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