A Deardorff SC11 is getting new bellows. Which wood for new bellows frames?

[Tin Can]

I am ordering new bellows for my Deardorff SC11 Studio 11x14 camera. I have 2 original and worn out bellows. Last night I took them out of the frames. The bellows maker wants the frames for correct sizing and to install them. My 4 original frames seem usable, but I may as well buy 3 bellows if I am getting 2. Better price! This thing can take 3 bellows to give 75" of draw.

So I need to make 2 more frames and 24 nailing strips for nailing the bellows to the frames. The existing nailing strips are not savable, too many nails.

I removed 100's of nails last night from the 4 existing frames, very carefully and now my hands have locked up.

The existing frames and nailing strips are a soft wood, maybe pine. I can buy modeling wood in my exact sizes, but which wood? Frames are 5/16" x 7/8" or 8 mm x 22 mm and 18" square.

Here is a link to the only seller I found. It is beyond my skill set to cut wood to these dimensions. I will have enough trouble making the frames with lap joints.

Choices are Bass, Poplar, Cedar and Mahogany. Since this wood will be dyed matte black, appearance is not a criterion. Strength, and nailing ease, without cracking is paramount.

https://www.magnumwood.com/cart/Prod...ProductId=2346

Flatness of the this wood is unknown, but maybe I get lucky, one side of the bellows set, screws to one standard, forcing it flat, the other end is held top and bottom to the second standard.

I know I could cut this wood on a table saw, but I don't have one and I couldn't use one inside my studio if I did. DUST is EVIL.

So $60 for twigs delivered is Ok, in the grand scheme of my world. Shipping the twigs and frames will be much more!

[Tin Can]

Perhaps my discussion was too long.

Basswood, poplar, cedar or Mahogany?

[winterclock]

Poplar or Mahogony are more stable in dimension, I would use either of those. If appearance isn't an issue, poplar is least expensive. Drilling for the nails will prevent cracking.

[csxcnj]

Mahogany first choice denser, most stable an best holding power
Poplar second choice

as state above PRE DRILL first

[Tin Can]

That's what I figured from Internet search, but then I took a better look at my existing 4 frames, they are very lightweight and very soft. I think they are basswood, they are softer and lighter than the same size pine I have here.

I also found that window shutter manufacturers prefer basswood for a lot of reasons, dimensional stability is one, when compared to poplar. Cedar is the wrong wood and mahogany is the seemingly obvious choice. But, I am sending all this to UK Custom Bellows and I kinda doubt they are going to pre drill hundreds of nail holes. They also will not make frames. I am pretty sure I can make 2 more frames at least as sturdy, square and flat with basswood., to match OE Deardorff.

I also have oak right here and I made a box extension for the big guy to use in the absence of bellows. This 8mm oak is way too hard/dense to install bellows with nails. No glue was used on the original bellows.

My wood source is primarily a supplier to architects, for making models and they claim dimensionality of 0.1 mm which is tight tolerances for wood. I hope it is flat.

So I ordered 30-8mm square 900mm dowels and 8-8mm x 22mm 900mm planks. Saves me a lot of precision sawing and surfacing. Basically will I use my tiny hobby hand saw and saw the stock all at 90 degrees and then will hand cut half laps.

What could go wrong? Plenty, if it all turns to scrap in shipping across the pond.

If they don't like my frames we can start over. This is 3 bellows with total length of 90" and 18" square.

Mahogany first choice denser, most stable an best holding power
Poplar second choice

as state above PRE DRILL first

[imagedowser]

Yellow poplar ...best for stain and paint, strong (chair wood) accepts nails well , light weight and dimentionally stable.

[Tin Can]

That was a choice, but I read so many 'bad' things about it, like finger joints in longer pieces, warping. I should have bought samples first, but...

I have basswood and it seems very similar to the original Deardorff frames. These are not the standards, just the bellows end frames, no stain or paint, I will dye them black. I use a 2" wide permanent marker all the time for that purpose. It matches the OE finish.

Yellow poplar ...best for stain and paint, strong (chair wood) accepts nails well , light weight and dimentionally stable.

[Tin Can]

Got my bellows frame wood today from http://www.magnumwood.com/

All cut to size, that pile is 36-8mmx8mmx900mm and 8-8mmx22mmx900mm.

I am beyond happy, this basswood is perfect, knot free, splice free, straight clean, needs no sanding and is dimensionally correct. Now I just need to make some lap joints.

I will be using them again for camera wood.

Woo Hoo!

[Tin Can]

I just got my new bellows from Turner Bellows, they look great and all my little sticks worked just fine.

I wish I had fresh screws, I wonder if i can wait until I get new screws, whic are needed to install the bellows.

Maybe I got some here somewhere...

Very happy with the quality.

[Michael Cienfuegos]

I just got my new bellows from Turner Bellows, they look great and all my little sticks worked just fine.

I wish I had fresh screws, I wonder if i can wait until I get new screws, whic are needed to install the bellows.

Maybe I got some here somewhere...

Very happy with the quality.

McMaster-Carr is a great resource for small screws.