Protar vs. Tessar

[Jim Andrada]

Silly question Vaughn - we all know that brass, being heavier, has higher contrast. To prove it, get a piece of each - maybe a cube six inches on a side - and drop each one onto your big toe from a height of one meter. The contrast between the level of pain before and after the drop will be much greater with the brass.

[E. von Hoegh]

But will an Artar between the eyes spark the imagination, or just dim the lights for a little while? Do the brass barrelled RD's still make a bigger impact than those in the newer Al barrels?

This of course depends on the focal length of the Artars in question and the velocity at impact. For instance, a brass-barrel 6" Artar will never have the kinetic force of say a 24" aluminum barrel (for equal velocities, of course). Also, the 16 1/2" f:9.5 and the 19" f:11 were mounted in barrels of the same size, so a 16 1/2 in brass will have more energy than a 19 in aluminum! If you're comparing shuttered Artars, it gets more complicated.

[Vaughn]

...For instance, a brass-barrel 6" Artar will never have the kinetic force of say a 24" aluminum barrel (for equal velocities, of course)...

A 24" to the forehead will certainly leave a mark, brass or Al...perhaps that is where the term "Red Dot" comes from. I know they were not made in India...

[E. von Hoegh]

A 24" to the forehead will certainly leave a mark, brass or Al...perhaps that is where the term "Red Dot" comes from. I know they were not made in India...

Now that I think of it, even the tiny 4" would leave a mark...

And, (just to stay somewhere in the vicinity of the topic) a good Tessar, particularly the slower ones can be stunningly sharp as long as you don't expect too much in the way of coverage. A 14" f:6.3 on 8x10 would give some movements, and a good one would be very sharp all over at say f:11

[Taija71A]

This of course depends on the focal length of the Artars in question and the velocity at impact. For instance, a brass-barrel 6" Artar will never have the kinetic force of say a 24" aluminum barrel (for equal velocities, of course). Also, the 16 1/2" f:9.5 and the 19" f:11 were mounted in barrels of the same size, so a 16 1/2 in brass will have more energy than a 19 in aluminum! If you're comparing shuttered Artars, it gets more complicated.

A 24" to the forehead will certainly leave a mark, brass or Al...perhaps that is where the term "Red Dot" comes from.

____

It's about time!!!
Finally, something is being written on the Forum... That makes 'Perfect Sense!'

But, this still doesn't explain where say a 'Gold Dot Dagor' or a 'Blue Dot Trigor'... Would fit into the equation?

-Tim.
_________

[E. von Hoegh]

____

It's about time!!!
Finally, something is being written on the Forum... That makes 'Perfect Sense!'

But, this still doesn't explain where say a 'Gold Dot Dagor' or a 'Blue Dot Trigor'... Would fit into the equation?

-Tim.
_________

They don't. They're far too expensive to throw at someones head.Or anything else.

[Taija71A]

They don't. They're far too expensive to throw at someones head. Or anything else.

+1

[E. von Hoegh]

There's something very strange going on in the way the capitalisation in that quote changed / inverted. !

cut & paste - Originally Posted by { e. Von hoegh

they don't. They're far too expensive to throw at someones head.or anything else }

[Brassai]

More important, will any difference between the Protar and the Tessar help or hinder your photographic vision?
Speed, coverage, sharpness (if sharpness is important) physical size, cost, coating(or at least the potentiality to minimize flare) and reliability of the shutter in any given lens are, for me, are more critical issues than the marketing hype of the design. YMMV, of course!
Aside from wanting a "back up" or say a different focal length, use what you've already got unless you've got a pressing reason for making a change.

Here's what my project is. Starting about this time last year, I began buying a few of each type of the first generation of lenses. these are very short focal length and small lenses. I have a 90mm early Petzval, 50mm Darlot achromatic doublet, and 100mm E&HT Anthony rapid rectilinear. I am having SK Grimes put them in F-mount so I can use them on my Nikon D7100. This is fun! I am mostly after a very vintage look, both the look the lens has AND the look the lenses give the images. I am thinking of buying a short FL Protar, from the 1890s. I don't need a shutter since the Nikon already has one. I focus using live view. If a lens is too sharp, it doesn't appeal to me.


Kent in SD