Why? The RB's are manual aren't they? You can open an aperture on it and shutter right? Just make a custom board that locks the RB lens (hack an RB body for the mount maybe) and it should work just fine, the image circle should be good at macro because of bellows extension.
Oh my. Misleading topic. Not about filters at all, not really. More about porn, sorry, art and how to make it with a view camera and macro. I've read the thread from start to finish (post #54), am surprised that no one has suggested that the OP try reading a book instead of getting somewhat random answers to random questions ...
Stone, spend some of your wealth on a copy of Lester Lefkowitz' book The Manual of Closeup Photography. Available used from booksellers all over the internet, they can be found via, in alphabetical order, abebooks.com, alibris.com, amazon.com, ... And then read the book closely.
Or just buy the Mapplethorpe book and save yourself a lot of trouble ;-p
I know I've suffered from getting hit with the elephant ears while personally suffering the ignobility of having an unattractive ball sack but I still take my blows with gratitude. Good luck on your quest.
I bought the books, but I had more fun figuring it out myself. Well, I've actually been to busy with real life to solve my LF macro challenges, However.... here's some sample images. Warning not strictly LF! I mounted my Nikon d300 to my Cambo Legend for quick feedback.
Remember these were taken with a 1.5 crop sensor. all were in full afternoon sun. ISO was 400
i50mm Schnieder Symmar Bellows extended to the maximun distance on the rail, ~400mm + ~20 to 30mm from regular film plane to digital sensor
These are the f-stops marked on the lens, at this extension they are nowhere near what the actual f-stop will be. If I had the actual focal length used it would be easy to calculate actual f-stops were.
The first one is 1.3 seconds f32
The second is 1/30 second f5.6
The third just shows the entire tulip bud for reference probably about 2" tall
As you can see, stopping down for greater depth of field really costs image quality in diffraction. There was no wind to cause movement, but 1.3 seconds is a long time for such a small subject.
I used Liveview to focus and eliminate mirror slap, and a remote shutter release.
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