Need expert advice- best light weight folding field camera?

[Michael_4514]

One to look at is the Toho FC-45x. It is a lightweight monorail that can accomodate wide angles and long lenses, and handles portrait, landscape and architecture well. They run about $1000 used. Kerry Thalmann has a review of the camera on his website. You might want to go with a used Linhof IV or V, which is heavier but solid and capable of handlheld and tripod-based composition with movements. The Meridian 45B (not the 45A) is a Linhof knockoff that does not win any beauty contests but gets the job done well for less than $500. From what I have read and heard, the Chamonix is also an excellent option. I have an Ikeda Anba for sale if you are interested but in my opinion it is optimal for backpacking rather than walk-around.

Recognize that you are battling system weight, not camera weight, and you may want to put your money into lighter lenses, tripods and accessories rather than the camera. I consider a carbon fiber tripod a must (Feisol is cheap and excellent), and I choose lenses that are light, perform well and have a decent image circle. Many of us go through several cameras before finding the one that fits our needs best. The tripod and lenses will last forever.

Toho is an excellent choice, if you can find one. I rarely see them for sale. Of course, the OP asked about field type cameras, but if she's interested in a lightweight rail, there are some great choices available. The Toho, the Arca Discovery, Sinar has a light rail the name escapes me . . .

[tgtaylor]

Although I have never owned or used one, the Arca-Swiss Discovery seems to be a fine camera. It's no longer manufactured and weighs in at 5lbs - lighter than the Toyo AX by 1lb and heaver than the Toyo CF by 1.6lbs, but well worth the consideration if the extra weight and bulk doesn't matter. If my memory is correct it sold in the $1100/$1200 range when the CF was $549.95. It's a monorail and would have full movements. But you wouldn't need the back movements forlandscape and most general photography.

Thomas

[Drew Bedo]

The more I read about your needs, the more I feel you need to get a press camera. A whole shooters kit can be found for ,$500. Another option would be one of the Polaroid conversions.

The Speed and Crown Graphics, and the Polaroids fold up into the camera body for self storage with the lens mounted. One of these with a couple of Grafmatics and your good to go.

View Camera Magazine had two articles on how to modify the Graphics cameras for front tilt and swing, back in the early 2000s. A friend of mine did the tilt mod in 5 min while I watched. Sounds like you don't really need that though.

[Bob Salomon]

The more I read about your needs, the more I feel you need to get a press camera. A whole shooters kit can be found for ,$500. Another option would be one of the Polaroid conversions.

The Speed and Crown Graphics, and the Polaroids fold up into the camera body for self storage with the lens mounted. One of these with a couple of Grafmatics and your good to go.

View Camera Magazine had two articles on how to modify the Graphics cameras for front tilt and swing, back in the early 2000s. A friend of mine did the tilt mod in 5 min while I watched. Sounds like you don't really need that though.

I would expect that if someone was going to take a graduate coarse in photography they would need a camera capable of doing view camera controls. And that would mean full movement; front and rear swing and tilt and front and rear direct displacements. Otherwise they will never learn everything a view camera can really do, inside and outside.

Of course once they have finished the coarse they can start to use whatever type of camera suits their workload afterward.

[Imagowan]

It is done! I have placed an order for a Chamonix F1. Drew, I don't doubt you are quite right and very open to the possibility of this being the right camera for me... but as of now that will need to be on the back burner. My lovely camera should be arriving next week! Now for lenses. Are there certain makes I should prioritize? Or is that not necessary? I would like a good portrait lens and perhaps something a bit more wide angled. Any suggestions or thoughts?

[Otto Seaman]

Start with a normal 150mm f/5.6 late-model (1990s-2000s) Schneider APO-Symmar or Rodenstock Sironar-N mounted in a black-rimmed Copal #0 shutter from a reliable used dealer like MPEX.com or KEH.com. Probably will cost about $300 to $350 for one in excellent condition.

Decide on other lenses after you get used to the first?

[Bob Salomon]

Start with a normal 150mm f/5.6 late-model (1990s-2000s) Schneider APO-Symmar or Rodenstock Sironar-N mounted in a black-rimmed Copal #0 shutter from a reliable used dealer like MPEX.com or KEH.com. Probably will cost about $300 to $350 for one in excellent condition.

Decide on other lenses after you get used to the first?

Late model Rodenstock would be an Apo Sironar N.

[Imagowan]

If I already purchased a lens board with my camera, do I want it mounted still?

[Imagowan]

Also is benro a good cheaper and light alternative to gitzo?

[Bob Salomon]

If I already purchased a lens board with my camera, do I want it mounted still?

You need the lens mounted to the correct board.