what 4x5 daylight developing tank (or similar) options are available now, March 2013?

[robert liebermann]

I've done some searching on this, but much of what I find is already discontinued...

I'm new to 4x5, and tray development doesn't seem like it'll fit my style/setup (darkroom availability isn't guaranteed, takes much time, the %$#@ things stick together and the tray, etc.)

I've developed a lot of 35 and 120 in stainless tanks for 20+ years, though - e6, c41, b/w, even Orwochrom (E-4?)! ... Hand agitation, water bath, the whole cheapskate method - it's always worked well for me!

So I'm fixated on loading the film into a tank, turning on the lights (and water!) and doing it like I always have, but with 4x5! I'd like to be able to do 8-16 sheets in a batch in daylight conditions with no 'equipment' (rotator or whatever) needed.

I've never used the plastic tanks, jobo system or whatever else is similar, so not too familiar with the setup/terminology/parts required. For me, developing takes 1) a reel and 2) a tank! Are there jobo or similar tanks that I could hand agitate? What 'parts' would I need - the many model numbers have been too much for me to figure out!

I've seen reference to the Nikor SS tanks, and wow! they are expensive used! Makes me feel silly for whining about the recent increase in roll film tanks... If I had to I'd break down and get the $200-300 if that's all that's left (they'll be $500 next year!) Nikor but wondering if there are any other options left.

So the question: what types of tanks exist/existed that would still be easy to get new or used? From where?

I see that dunk/dip tanks are available on eb, but they use more chemistry than I'd like (esp. with my precious and impossible to get in Alaska E6!), plus the need for a darkroom...

And since I just signed up to this list a few weeks back, I can't see the ads for a while - but if anyone has such a critter for sale, let me know...

[Light Guru]

Check out the mod54. You use it with a Paterson 3 reel tank and can develop up to 6 sheets at a time.

They actually announced a new version of the mod54 this week.

[Brian Ellis]

If you're not wedded to a tank you might look at the BTZS tubes. www.viewcamerastore.com You load the film in the dark, then turn on the lights the rest of the time. They use a maximum of 2 ounces of developer per sheet and take up very little space.

[Vick Ko]

This is an informative thread:
http://www.apug.org/forums/forum44/4...ping-tank.html

I plan to go with the Nikor 4x5 tank. Prices seem pretty steady at between $200 and $300.

I also have the Jobo 2521 Tank with 2509 Reel system, but I am tending to try the Nikor first.

[Cletus]

I recall going through all this and asking this same batch of questions when I started shooting sheet film. I don't think the MOD54 was around yet at the time or I'd probably gone that route. Even if I had, I'm sure by now I'd be back to processing sheet film the way I always have - in trays, in the dark.

I was so reluctant to do this for exactly the same reasons the OP states, but then finances, availability of daylight tanks, lack of strong consensus on any particular daylight methods, etc.. So I went ahead and dropped the big coin - $15 for a set of four 5x7 trays and just did it in the dark. Get a regular Gra-lab 300 timer with glow in the dark hands (they won't bother your film) and just do it. You'll probably screw up your first couple rounds, then you'll never want to process sheet film any other way. That's my prediction anyway.

Bottom line, it's not hard to do at all, once you get the hang of it and it actually gives you (or at least me) sort of sense of tactile control over your processing that I doubt can be duplicated with other means. Use a first tray with a water bath. That way you can take your time, in the dark, and unload your holders or boxes into it and not feel rushed getting the film directly into the developer. Gives you a nice prewash too, at least with HP5. You'll find that it's easy to get the routine and the moves down to shuffle the stack (agitate) without scratching the film, although you probably will end up with some scratches the first few times until you get it down. Don't let that lead you to the conclusion that tray processing scratches sheet film. I haven't scratched a single sheet since when I started doing this and I've processed well over a thousand sheets of 4x5 by now I'm sure. Don't do more then about 8 at a time, 10 max, as that's about capacity for the developer in the volume of a small tray - and more than that gets to be hard to handle.

[Trigeek]

If you're not wedded to a tank you might look at the BTZS tubes. www.viewcamerastore.com You load the film in the dark, then turn on the lights the rest of the time. They use a maximum of 2 ounces of developer per sheet and take up very little space.

+1 on the BTZS tubes. Does not use a lot of chemicals and they give you the ability to process each sheet for a different time if that is an advantage for you.

[DannL]

There is a short spiel on using a Unicolor color processing drum here . . . http://www.largeformatphotography.info/unicolor/

Many moons ago I tried the tray bit, and after several failed attempts I figured there must be something different. Then I found some of them FR tanks that take about 8 sheets standing vertically in solution. I could never get even development, and the tanks could not be inverted during processing. Then I tried the Unicolor drum mentioned above. I had three or four of these drums, they all leaked and they were prone to scratching the back of the film base. Then at an estate sale I found a Chromega processing drum for (8x10/5x7/4x5/9x12). I think I payed 50 cents. It will handle from one to four sheets of 4x5 at a time. It worked with the Unicolor roller unit that I already owned. It didn't leak a drop, and it didn't scratch the film. Then I found several more, one which was a 11x14 version of the drum. The biggest trouble with these drums is that they are somewhat rare. Occasionally they show up on ebay, but usually incomplete. Potential buyers probably don't realize that the drums they are buying are missing some required parts.

I'll post an image of these tanks and their required parts. If I wasn't able to find the Chromega drums, I would settle on the Unicolor drum and live with the leaks.

I continue to use the Chromega drums. And should they ever give me trouble . . . .

[koh303]

You can do up to 12 sheets per run with the 2550 multitank 5 and 2X 2509 reels. This tank can also be used for roll film with the 2502 reels 35/120.
Use it for inversion or for rotation on a flat surface or get the environmentally friendly 1509 Jobo roller base. A kit like this still be in the 300$ range, but you get alot more flexibility and modular options then with most other systems.

[Light Guru]

There is a short spiel on using a Unicolor color processing drum here . . . http://www.largeformatphotography.info/unicolor/

Many moons ago I tried the tray bit, and after several failed attempts I figured there must be something different. Then I found some of them FR tanks that take about 8 sheets standing vertically in solution. I could never get even development, and the tanks could not be inverted during processing. Then I tried the Unicolor drum mentioned above. I had three or four of these drums, they all leaked and they were prone to scratching the back of the film base. Then at an estate sale I found a Chromega processing drum for (8x10/5x7/4x5/9x12). I think I payed 50 cents. It will handle from one to four sheets of 4x5 at a time. It worked with the Unicolor roller unit that I already owned. It didn't leak a drop, and it didn't scratch the film. Then I found several more, one which was a 11x14 version of the drum. The biggest trouble with these drums is that they are somewhat rare. Occasionally they show up on ebay, but usually incomplete. Potential buyers probably don't realize that the drums they are buying are missing some required parts.

I'll post an image of these tanks and their required parts. If I wasn't able to find the Chromega drums, I would settle on the Unicolor drum and live with the leaks.

I continue to use the Chromega drums. And should they ever give me trouble . . . .

the leaking comes from a worn out gasket, you cannot find replacements anywhere but they are easy to make just use the odd one as a template.

[DannL]

the leaking comes from a worn out gasket, you cannot find replacements anywhere but they are easy to make just use the odd one as a template.

I recall making gaskets from plastic coffee can lids.