I read the same Len, less is best, so I didn't put much in. So far, none has migrated to the blades, I'll keep an eye on it.
Type: Posts; User: Ian Greenhalgh; Keyword(s):
I read the same Len, less is best, so I didn't put much in. So far, none has migrated to the blades, I'll keep an eye on it.
Thanks for the advice guys, much appreciated. The lightest oil I have is 3-in-one so I put a few drops of it at the places that seemed appropriate, especially the slow speed escapement, then I...
Aah, I see. Anyone know if there is a diagram online of where to lubricate on a Compur-Rapid?
What sort of oil does it need?
Hi folks
I have a Compur Rapid #00 in very nice condition, but sadly it sticks open on the slowest 4 speeds.
So I removed the face plate and washed it out with lighter fluid. Hey Presto, it...
I am the sort of person that won't waste time and effort on dodgy equipment, so this shutter/lens combo has been put to one side awaiting maintenance. Interestingly, in the warm house now it is...
It's a Copal Press #0 I took from a Shackman oscilloscope camera. I wonder if taking it from the warm house into the cold was the reason, I'll see how it runs in the house.
Interestingly,...
This is the sharpest I have got, two I made today came out so soft I threw them away and it definitely isn't shake or any other error.
...
Hi folks
I've been shooting paper negatives using Agfa Brovira Speed paper and I'm disappointed by the sharpness, or rather the lack of it.
Is this to be expected from paper? The resolution...
Beautiful picture! What is the lens, a Beck Symmetrical?
Doesn't surprise me, you need to compromise, drop the MC requirement for instance. A lens like the Angulon 6.8/65 really doesn't need MC.
Cheers for the tip, I'll keep my eye out for one, is 60mm the shortest?
Mwclassic have a coated one for 60 quid but I'm only gaining 5mm over my Angulon.
I'd love a 58mm XL, but will have to sell quite a few things.
I can't get more than a tiny bit of front rise with my Angulon 65mm, I guess I'll just have to remove the wire finder frame as I do...
Yup, definitely should be a cell in the back. :(
Thanks Dan, you've confirmed all my thoughts/fears. Trying to find any of the lenses mentioned is pretty difficult, and when they do appear on ebay it tends to be outside the EU which means incurring...
Hi folks
I am very happy with my Angulon 6.8/65 on my Century Graphic 23, at f16 and f22, where I shoot it, the IQ is excellent. However, I crave something wider.
What options are there in the...
65mm Angulon probably as the image circle is a bit smaller than the Super Angulon.
Thanks guys. I guess I'll have to study the DIY info and make a decision.
Hi folks
I took my Mamiya-Sekor 2.8/80 in Copal Press 0 shutter out to shoot today, not used it for 3-4 months and dammit, te slow speeds are now a lot sower than they should be. 1 sec is 3 or 4...
I have a 5 3/8" one made in 1912, stunningly good for such an old and simple lens.
Cheers John. Scans using my old Epson Perfection 3200 then a little bit of tweaking of brightness/contrast in photoshop and added a sepia tint. I might have got lucky with this paper, it was still...
30 year old Agfa Brovira Speed #5 paper rated at ISO 3. Stand developed to completion in Fomadon LQN.
Wray HR Lustrar 5.6/82mm on Century Graphic 23, f5.6, 1/2 sec:
...
Yes, dialytes work well in harsh lighting, their lower contrast becomes a benefit in such situations.
I have a 1950's vintage Xenar 3.5/105 that came with my Centuy Graphic 23, it's a 'normal' 4/3 tessar. Good lens, very sharp and contrasty.
Worth trying I think, dialytes are usually sharper than tessars but lower contrast due to more air-glass surfaces. I like dialytes a lot actually.
The Citonar is a dialyte 4/4 type. The Veraplan is also a dialyte I think, probably for the obsolete 10x15cm format.
It's a 4 elements in 3 groups tessar type. The serial number suggests it was made in 1937 or 1938.
I forgot to mention, I opened the rear cell and it has two airspaced elements, so it's not a tessar type.
I can't get the front open, but the external curves are different to the rear cell so it's...
I was lucky, I bought two of these 4.5/5" together in a job lot of junk for next to nothing. The apertures in both didn't work, but the glass was fine. Yup, like the more common Ross WA Xpres 4/5"...
I don't have much time for internet nonsense to be honest, if you listened to every 'fact' you heard on the internet, you'd never learn much of value.
So I prefer to ask the lens what it can do.
...
I thought 'pot metal' just referred to alloy of uncertain composition that had been produced by melting down old cooking pots?
Yes, 4.5 is suspiciously fast for a double gauss. I'll see if i can...
To be honest, the barrel has almost nothing to do with the origins, I have Dallmeyer lenses with very similar brass barrels.
I'm not going to fall into the trap of making a generalisation not...
Andrew, what makes you think it's made by Ross?
The two lenses are completely different, they both have heavy brass barrels but the design of the barrels has little in common.
I have no idea...
I have two of these lenses, f4.5 5". They are a 4/4 double gauss design. One of mine has the WW code and the s/n 27473, the other has no code but the s/n 26705.
They are not Ross Wide Angle Xpres,...
Cheers Roger.
No problem Ed, as long as you know how to use it! :)
Beautiful image Ed, is that lens a double gauss 4/4 type?
Excellent thread, one of the most informative I have read in a long time. I hope it doesn't get derailed by sarcastic, argumentative and unpleasant people.
No, human vision interprets 3D through comparing two different viewpoints - we have two eyes!
That's an excellent observation Patrick and I very much agree, the entire boundary edge of the subject must be in sharp focus and the separation of subject to background is very important too.
One of these sold on ebay UK this week for just over 30ukp. I bid 31 and lost, didn't want to risk more as it looked rather beaten up and might not have been complete judging by the photos.