Following this thread with interest - recently had a very similar experience with Tri-X 120 developed in XT-3 (Adox's XTol) - I cannot recall ever needing to print with a 00 filter.
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Following this thread with interest - recently had a very similar experience with Tri-X 120 developed in XT-3 (Adox's XTol) - I cannot recall ever needing to print with a 00 filter.
Measuring the rear element was the trick - it seems I did in fact have them switched. I need to go back and double check my notes, but I'm fairly sure I did shoot a few sheets with the 135...
Well, I may have screwed up.
When switching lens boards around, I realized that I'd not been very careful separating the cells from my 135 and 150mm Nikkors and that the rear cells will thread...
If you're willing to be an early adopter, the Dev.a seems like it might fit the bill for you.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xWCJ-WaazsY&t=11s
Don't use Goof Off.
Also, don't ask me how I know that. :eek:
Hopefully COVID will have declined to an extent where travel is practical again before this comes down, would love to see this in person (not that I'd want to be making a trip to Rochester in Feb...
If you have an inclination towards DIY, you can build a very straightforward tester using an Arduino and a few small parts for under $20-
https://youtu.be/UwOh3da_Y8s
The video is super goofy...
Yes I did, unfortunately no luck. The outer slots hold the lens retainer (which is loose), the inner ones seem to hold the rear glass element into the rear element assembly but are as frozen as the...
On a bit of an impulse I picked up a Caltar HR 90mm f8 (which is a rebadged Rodenstock Geronar WA) from eBay hoping to get a lens that would be a little more friendly to work with on my Super Graphic...