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A somewhat safer intensification process: a standard rehal bleach of ferricyanide and potassium bromide, followed by redevelopment in a staining developer. This can be repeated any number of times;...

PC-TEA is pretty simple: phenidone, vitamin C and TEA. I've also made Parodinal several times: paracetamol, sodium hydroxide, sodium sulfite and water.

In general, though, I prefer Pyrocat HD in...

I think the only easy way to get a 60Hz AC supply is with an inverter. I don't know how well that would work; your timer probably expects a clean 60Hz input, and an inverter might generate some noise.

Quite a lot, in hindsight.

Started mixing my own developers and fixer from scratch. Finally worked out a reliable method for enlarging negs onto lith film. Found a good paper and process for...

Just curious about this... this chromium intensifier is a bleach/redevelop process, right? So is it not possible to bleach it back with a rehal bleach again, redevelop to a lower contrast, then fix?

It happened to me quite recently, but with Pyrocat HD in glycol that I made from scratch. There wasn't much of it, and initially it was made up of transparent/whitish particles, which have since...

You're welcome!

Much to my surprise, I found the VDB print that I sepia toned a while back; it turned up when I was going through my stack of papers and film. Here's a scan... the colour you see is pretty accurate,...

Watch out for the smoke! It's a much greater hazard then most people think. The smoke from the recent fires here in Australia probably killed far more people than the fire itself.

Stunning! I wish my efforts were half as good.

The huon pine must have cost a pretty penny.

I'm not koraks, but I did try sepia toning a VDB print a while ago. I used a finished print (fixed and dried) and followed the usual process: bleach then redevelop with thiourea. It worked, in the...

Thanks! I got lucky with a very clear sky that day.

This shows what the film can do with an R72 filter. (Apologies for posting a 35mm image, but it's all I have for this film.)

This was at 80 ISO, but 50 ISO is closer to the mark.

207105

RPX25 is Agfa Aviphot 80, the same film as Retro 80s. An R72 filter will produce pretty good IR images.

I put one together using a BLB CFL, a box, and some lamp parts. It covers 5x7, doesn't get overly hot, and exposures for most processes are only 2 to 4 minutes. To cover 8x10 I'd need 2 CFLs and a...

There are also a few different types of tee nut, some of which don't have pointed spikes, which might make them a better choice. I've found the spikes to be problematic in many cases, especially when...

BTZS tubes that I made myself, with press-on end caps and minimum developer. At the end of development I fix in a tray with the lights on.

I successfully make digital negatives on a $50 HP printer. I'd hope that a printer that costs over a grand would be at least as successful. (In fact I'd expect it to be 20 times better!)

I've used the process described on unlinkingeye.com. Short review: the first exposure determines the negative shadow density, and is fairly easy to nail down. The second, "flash" exposure determines...

I'd try a new set ofMC filters before anything else. They do fade over time.

A quick google suggests they've been in use at dozens of airports since 2016, just not in the US. Consequently, I think they're as dialled in as they ever will be :)

Check the film under a safelight; the emulsion side is a lighter shade than the back.

I have an old 5x7 Kodak film holder, and it's not only shorter than my Lisco holders, it's slightly thicker, too. That said, it's an excellent film holder.

The coatings just reduce the amount of light reflected from the glass surface, so if it's just a spot with no coating on the front of the lens, you'll get slightly less light passing through the...

I've bought a number of pinholes from an eBay vendor called fireseller66. They've all been very good quality and reasonably priced.