Yeah, I like what Nejc is doing. He's got a novice's enthusiasm but with some serious skill already in his tool kit. I like how he's not afraid to tackle challenging processes - like making his own...
Type: Posts; User: paulbarden; Keyword(s):
Yeah, I like what Nejc is doing. He's got a novice's enthusiasm but with some serious skill already in his tool kit. I like how he's not afraid to tackle challenging processes - like making his own...
Adam,
Those are good landscape pieces, but sadly marred by the dust and hairs that cry out to be cleaned up. Is there a reason you didn't spot the images?
FP4 and Delta 100. For landscape work and still lifes.
I use PLA. Its just fine, as long as you print at 100% density (solid plastic, no air spaces). Not all black filament is opaque unless you print solid.
Clean the threads with Naphtha and a Q-tip, then dust lightly with graphite, brush off excess.
I've done a bit of it. Home made pinhole in thin brass, mounted on my Intrepid 8x10. Mostly I've used FP4 or HP5.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/46825634045_83352af044_b.jpg
From the...
I bought all of my supplies for making D76 and a few others from Artcraft Chemicals. Excellent prices, fast service.
D-76 is D-76. As long as the recipe is written correctly (no errors) then they should all look the same.
See: http://lostlabours.co.uk/photography/formulae/developers/devID11.htm
or:...
Start making your own D-76 from scratch. Its ridiculously easy. That's what I'm doing now, as Xtol becomes less and less reliable.
Can you please show us an example of this "fogging"? It would be very helpful in diagnosing the issue.
"Russian Dolls"
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50826329807_f843048481_b.jpg
Photograph made using my Intrepid 4x5 camera fitted with a Schneider Xenotar f6.3 press camera lens (made for a...
Thanks for that information.
I've been using PMK for the past few years, and it seems to last forever without change, so I'm going to stick with that, I think.
"Phenidone problems"?
They ALL announce price increases, usually every year. Your point??
I think you're expecting a level of transparency from K/A that is far from what you're ever likely to get.
Michael, can we see a photo of the negatives?
Bergger states that a 3-5 minute presoak in water before developer is required. You don't mention if you do this or not.
Also of note, the base...
I too am going to start making D-76 from scratch.
Hi Randy.
Yes, there are always better ways to store such materials, but I don't have a museum budget, so I make do with standard Gaylord Archival boxes and interleave my plates with acid free...
You'll find many of us on this forum don't appreciate it when someone's first post to the forum points to a Facebook page. Myself, I won't touch Facebook content, for love nor money.
My collodion glass negatives are stored in Gaylord Archival boxes, with neutral paper separating each negative. Stored vertically, of course, not stacked.
And yet I learn something every time.
My personal favorite is my 7.5 inch (190mm) Wide Field Ektar, from Kodak.
https://live.staticflickr.com/1790/41100825150_3378d26566_h.jpg
Yes, he's recommending large format photography, but in a "You should learn to drive a car! The best part is that there's no such thing as a speed limit, and you CANNOT hurt yourself!" kind of way. I...
Tyler Shields cannot count: the difference between f5.6 and f45 is not 9 stops.
After watching that video (unapologetic self-aggrandizement malarkey, IMO) I am annoyed by the misinformation he's...
Thanks, Randy.
I developed this as a negative, which is what you get with this material by processing it as if it were film. I think it was made to make slides either by printing a negative on it,...
Thanks, Ben! Much appreciated.
Two years ago a friend gave me an unopened box of Kodak Lantern Slide Contrast plates, Contrast 3, (Orthochromatic, marked “develop before October 1953”!!) and I had no idea what to use them for, as...
I have used compact fluorescents in a softbox to expose J. Lane plates and almost always ended up with underexposed plates. I think the ASA for such conditions is likely 0.10 or less. I expect LED's...
That’s spectacular, Mat!
Thank you Greg. I too use PMK a lot and like it immensely. Although BER49 (the same as Atomal 49, or so I'm told) is not a staining developer, in a way the resulting negatives are a bit like that:...
Thanks, Peter, much appreciated!
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50732676768_cdcc58bd75_b.jpg
Photographed on Kodak Tri-X at 200 ASA
Hasselblad 500 C/M and standard 80mm Planar lens.
Film processed in BER49 1:1 for 14...
I don't know about this specific shutter, but many of the early Compur shutters with a T setting were designed so that you DO NOT cock the shutter to use either B or T. If you force the shutter when...
Thank you!
I would write to Blue Moon Camera in PDX and ask if that's something they'd do for you.
Rob,
I'm not sure which lens you are speaking of, but I have a couple brass lenses that do not have a flange, and I make my own 3D printed lens boards for them and simply make the hole small enough...
Thank you. It does have some similar traits to my wet plate negatives, yes!
I was given a few packages of Agfa Portriga Rapid 2 years ago, and I have made 4x5 and 5x7 contact prints on it, and it performs almost as it did when new, just a bit of contrast loss. That paper is...
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50636563892_7cc9595444_h.jpg
Quince
Photographed on Ilford FP4 film, processed in PMK Pyro.
Lens: 203mm Kodak Ektar at f11
Camera: B&J Watson, leaky...
Photograph made on Astrum MZ-3 (3ASA) using a Kodak Retina IIa, Schneider Retina-Xenon lens at f2.8
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50630600076_97febe2808_h.jpg