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  1. Replies
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    Re: Focusing loup

    I switched to a free-hand magnifying loupe years ago and have never looked back. It happened by accident. I was in Venice photographing and had left my loupe and reading glasses at home. An...
  2. Re: Identifying cause of streaks on BW negatives

    John,

    Michael has given you about all the advice that I would, but I'll chime in anyway, since he summoned me :)

    Your shuffle technique seems fine, although I might add rotating the sheets...
  3. Re: Which first Rear Movement and Asymmetrical Tilt Chamonix 45F2

    As long as you're only using the lens stage rise/fall or lateral shift to reposition your lines so they correspond better with focus points, you're fine; you're not changing the position of the focus...
  4. Re: Large format copy negative from print

    Choose one of the recommended films (I'd likely go with TMX) and then make a few negatives of a print with a full range of tones. Rate the film 2/3-stop slower than box speed. Develop one for...
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    Re: Agitation and highlight density

    Mark,

    You caught me at oversimplification, again :)

    You're describing a special situation; compensating development, which depends on the developer exhausting in the high-density areas, but...
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    Re: Darkslide notching

    Here's one: https://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?153421-how-to-notch-film-holder

    My contribution is post #3

    Doremus
  7. Re: Which first Rear Movement and Asymmetrical Tilt Chamonix 45F2

    Asymmetrical tilts and swings are just modifications of axis movements designed to make the photographer's job easier when applying these movements. They may be a bit faster or more precise than...
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    Re: Agitation and highlight density

    Changing agitation has the same effect as changing development time (or changing developer temperature). In just about everyone's view, it is better to keep temperature and agitation the...
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    Re: Chemical age -- metol

    Philip,

    I'd be looking elsewhere for your problem and not at the Metol (I, too, have 30+-year-old bottles of Metol, hydroquinone and phenidone that all work just fine).

    Although it's hard to...
  10. Re: Which first Rear Movement and Asymmetrical Tilt Chamonix 45F2

    I think we're overcomplicating things for the OP. Let me take a stab at oversimplification :)

    Asymmetrical tilts and swings are simply axis tilts/swings with the axes displaced off-center. Using...
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    Re: Ilford Rapid Fix considerations

    +1000

    The HT-2 test is simple. It's a lot easier and takes less time than reading "Mysteries of the Vortex," not that I'm saying you shouldn't.

    What you should do is quit complaining about the...
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    Re: FOBA Tube Set

    Just for us native English speakers: "wolframium" = tungsten.

    D
  13. Replies
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    Re: Ilford Rapid Fix considerations

    The amount of washing you need depends heavily on the time in the fixer and if you tone or not. The Ilford page on optimum permanence has all the details: ...
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    Re: 4x5 B&W development - no processor

    If you have access to total darkness for processing, my vote would be for tray processing.

    I've been tray processing 4x5 film for 35+ years. I find it the most flexible of all the options. You...
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    Re: What photo paper grade means?

    Jay,
    If you end up using a fixed-grade paper like Lupex, then you end up with very little contrast adjustment possible at the printing stage. In the past, graded papers were made in several...
  16. Re: Push/Pull processing if Scanning Negative

    To clarify: I'm referring to black-and-white film and to the contrast gradient to which it has been developed, not the physical characteristics of the film itself. I know photographers who develop...
  17. Re: Push/Pull processing if Scanning Negative

    It does seem that film that has been optimized for scanning may not be ideal for traditional darkroom printing. A scan can get lots of information from a rather flat negative, but photo paper...
  18. Re: Beseler 45MXT with Zone VI cold head, info needed

    Roberto,

    Unless things have been broken during storage, the cold-light head should work fine; there's nothing with the bulb that long-term storage should damage. However, if you need a new bulb, I...
  19. Re: Best 250 for architecture from a distance for a feild camera

    IM-HO, the last thing you need on a 4x5 camera is a huge 300mm f/5.6 Plasmat with more image circle than you could possibly use. They're in #3 shutters, require huge filters and weigh more than some...
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    Re: HP5+ Processing and EI

    Beautiful images, McAir! Unlike Philip, I like the sharpness (sorry Philip...). Of course, small images on a computer screen aren't real prints, but these look great on my monitor.


    Doremus
  21. Re: Best Fast (high output) Film Development Method?

    20-45 sheets of film at one time in one tray?? You're a better man than I am, Gunga Din! Six to eight at time in a tray is all I can manage and still get through the stack once every 30 seconds. ...
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    Re: Repairing a B&W filter

    Some filters have retaining rings that screw in to hold the glass. Does yours?
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    Re: Spoon measure needed, please

    According to the Darkroom Cookbook, 1 tsp. of Borax (sodium tetraborate) is 3.8 grams. Since the exact amount isn't that critical, you can just use that and go.

    However, if you want to be more...
  24. Re: Anyone want to diagnose this negative?

    HC-110 reacts almost linearly when changing dilutions. So if you change from 1+31 (dil. B) to 1+63, you just need to double your original development time to get a very close starting point for the...
  25. Re: Moving to Spain. Can I send my negatives in the container?

    Pack them well-sealed in plastic bags along with some desiccant. As long as the container makes it to you and hasn't been flooded completely, the negatives should be alright.

    Doremus
  26. Re: Center filter question - usage on different formats

    You're right Alan, shifting (or raising/lowering) moves the optical center of the image on the film to an off-center position. However, if you can identify that point in the image, then you can do...
  27. Re: Center filter question - usage on different formats

    Vignetting is really the wrong term here. Fall-off is better.

    If you've got a center filter on your lens, shifting/raising/lowering the front or the back standards will make no real difference...
  28. Re: "Poll" Question: Do you use a footswitch for your enlarger?

    Indispensable for me too.

    I use foot switches for all my enlargers and my wet-side timers.

    On the wet side, I wired two foot switches in series so I can start/stop the timer from different...
  29. Re: F/9.0 lenses, what's your tips/trick for better viewing?

    I don't have problems with my f/9 lenses either...

    That said, here are some tips for low-light ground-glass viewing in general:

    Get a dark cloth with Velcro or whatever that seals under and...
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    Re: Contrast control with Adox Lupex

    SLIMT chemicals are just about as benign as you can get. Don't be frightened by the "cyanide" in the name. Potassium ferricyanide is not poisonous unless you add it to acid, chlorine or heat it. ...
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    Re: contact printing ??

    You're on the right track for sure!

    The next step is to rig up a way to mount contrast filters over your light source so you can control the contrast of your contact prints. Mounting filters will...
  32. Re: Please help me identify the source of this light leak on my negatives.

    Maybe someone opened the box of film when the lights were on? Try developing a sheet directly from the box to see. Check the box for damage/holes as well.

    Doremus
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    Re: New Homepage

    I like the site, like the images, like the ease of navigation and the uncluttered look. I could use some information about you, your techniques, your philosophy, etc.

    Yes, I know, the images...
  34. Re: Please help me identify the source of this light leak on my negatives.

    cirwin2010,

    From your detailed explanation, I would, as you do, think to examine your film loading area for extraneous light sources. Don't just look from a standing position over the loading...
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    Re: Paper developer question

    Bite the bullet and get some sodium carbonate. It's a lot less hassle than scrounging around for substitutions. It's readily available in many forms from many suppliers.
    Washing soda is the...
  36. Re: Longevity of stock TF-5 Archival Rapid Fix?

    I don't know about Pyrocat, but using Ilford Rapid Fixer or Hypam with PMK negatives has no influence on the stain (despite the PF instruction sheet - I guess Michael that you're correct about the...
  37. Re: Longevity of stock TF-5 Archival Rapid Fix?

    I suspect that the 12-month shelf-life given by PF for TF-5 is conservative. However, I'd be a bit uncomfortable keeping the stock solution for four years without more testing than a clearing-time...
  38. Re: Color filters to correct focusing issues with meniscus lenses

    Focusing and then making the negative with a blue filter like the #47 will likely be a bit difficult, since the filter is rather dense. The resulting image will be similar to one made with a...
  39. Re: Please help me identify the source of this light leak on my negatives.

    If I remember correctly, some Toyo holders had problems with the dark slides not being completely opaque (search here and on Photrio; there were a couple of threads about the problem).

    If that...
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    Re: LF Loupe vs regular 35mm lens

    Your 35mm lens should work just fine; it's just that it's bulky and harder to get exact focus with.

    Many like loupes with a skirt and adjustable focus so you can focus once carefully on the...
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