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In my experience there's a limit to the repeated build up of contrast both with chromium intensifier and especially with staining redevelopment. After a few (ca 3) rounds no significant additional...

You'll have to see how it goes with the tank rotation in one direction all the time. You may or may not get uneven development. If you get bands of unevenness, you know what the possible cause would...

Rotation speed doesn't really matter for development time. It's continuous agitation and that's what counts.
Uou may find you get uneven development at certain speeds; some find better results at...

Russ, concerning the timing accuracy, there are simple timer circuits to be had on ebay etc. that allow you to accurately and repeatably time exposures. My uv tubes have a 1-2 second startup time,...

Europe seems a little more challenging when it comes to finding large format enlargers. Nevertheless, in my experience, something attractive pops up once in a while. Given where you are, Durst is...

Thanks Eric; that makes good sense. After posting I indeed figured the resistors were current dropping resistors to offload dissipation from the fets.
Copy that on the virtual ground at 50mV for...

It can be done. But it's more challenging than b&w multigrade. Eric's closed loop system (which I assume the photodiodes are meant for) might be useful, although it's not a necessity in my experience.

Eric, nice work. Briefly checked the schematic on your blog; looks like a quite thoroughly engineered solution. I see you're using photodiodes to sense the output of the green & blue leds; is this...

I always hang the film from a corner using a clip and also attach a clip to the bottom corner. That helps the water to drip from the film. Remove the bottom clip after a few minutes when all water...

Well, that already explains part of the problem. The clips/wings are in my experience necessary to get even development / prevent surge marks along the edges, at least with some film/developer...

Just about anything will do. TMX is a great film and responds well to all kinds of developers. The people who say PMK, Pyrocat and D23 work well with it, are right. So are the ones who may (have yet...

With sheet film in trays I use the kodak agitation scheme. Works fine. For roll film I just use a Jobo with continuous agitation. Works fine too. Don't overthink it.

Exposure times of around 2-3 seconds are definitely on the short side because they're a bit difficult to reproduce depending on the equipment used. But they're not in reciprocity failure territory,...

"They say" selenium toning removes the pyro stain. I'm very skeptical - did you notice anything like it?

I've gone through a few sheets in 4x5. Perfectly ok film. I developed it in instant mytol (xtol clone). Nothing very particular about it; somewhat coarse grain for this speed. Effective speed seemed...

Just to be sure - the negative wasn't inadvertently exposed to red light, was it?
How does the negative look?
Who scanned it and how?

Plastic storage boxes are both cheaper and less heavy. I use them for practically all my paper and sheet film development when using trays.

Yes, I'd make sure there is ventilation as that unit likely generates a lot of heat. A plywood contraption can work very well, but I'd consider integrating a fan in it so the heat is taken out of the...

There are some posts about similar issues on photrio with this film. But this was in 120 format, not sheet film. In sheet film I've had the occasional blank spot (rendering black in print), but...

The problem is really in the economics. If I factor in the time I spent on what is essentially R&D, the Heiland solution is actually rather cheap unless I manage to produce maybe hundreds of units...

Looking at the rebate on the left side which is much wider than it should be, it might be a problem of loading the film wrong, perhaps sliding it into the slot of the dark slide instead of flush with...

Two boxes of paper going bad at the same time and apparently quite suddenly & severely sounds like too much of a coincidence to be honest. I suspect there's something more going on and some further...

Yeah, I did something similar about a year ago. Not just for B&W, but also for color, but then again only for up to 4x5 instead of 8x10....

1: Fresh paper?
2: Paper stored under proper conditions, away from heat sources or chemical foggants etc?
3: Have you performed a safelight safety test?
Sounds like the paper is fogged, to be...

What Paul says - give up stand. Do semi-stand if you have to, but to be brutally honest, there's absolutely nothing wrong with old fashioned agitation. A few inversions per minute and Bob's your...

The pattern will line up with the clamps of the mod54. Again, I've had exactly the same issue a few years ago. There's no doubt about the cause. Stand development, at least with rodinal or pyrocat,...

There's your problem.
This is NOT A LIGHT LEAK as quine and popdoc suggested. When I started out with 4x5 I also used a Mod54 and tried stand development with rodinal, with exactly the same...

For 35mm: I was corrected by someone on APUG/Photrio on my haphazard use of canisters vs. cassettes. The canister, as he told me, is the (usually plastic) box that the cassette (the metal one with...

I've had good results with two soft boxes at 45 degree angles on both sides of the print and the camera perpendicular to it. Perspective correction is annoying; get it right in the shot, saves a lot...

In reversal processing, you can certainly influence first development, fogging and second development to alter the film curve. One obvious application is to have the choice between making high vs low...

Ideally you'd use a film with good linearity from toe to shoulder. But in principle any panchromatic film should work.

As far as I can tell all C41 chemistry options should work well. Personally I use Fuji Hunt minilab chemistry, but in the US Kodak is easier to get and it's the benchmark. There's a big thread...

Toning for longevity only makes sense when toning is taken to completion. Good news though- a properly processed and untoned print has a really long lifetime. You won't see them fade and likely your...

Doesn't look very worrying to me, because it seems to be the spot where the bags are punched to slide them onto sales stands. Likely during the packaging operations some powder ends up between the...

I may do a new one some day, but as it is, not enough time and already a backlog of things I want to do :)

For this kind of stuff I use a rotary cutter. Mine (a Dahle) happens to have a metal construction on which magnetic strips can easily be stuck. Just position a strip as a stop, slide in film, cut,...

I'm sorry, but I don't think I still have the print in question. At least not where I can easily find it, and most likely I tossed it.

Yes, Ron Mowrey used to do that when he was still among us, there's one or two threads about it on photrio.

I'm afraid I haven't; in terms of toning alt. process prints, I stick to gold toning these days. I haven't done much additional work on sepia or selenium toning. Also, I have moved largely away from...

My bet wouldbe on either tiny water drops on the film during storage or in the camera, or small flecks of a chemical that found their way onto the film surface. Water seems a bit more likely. But...