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I suggest changing to a traditional developer and fix to help with contrast.

One year closer to 100 than the last time I answered this request.

I am not familiar with the Stearman tank, but I do know that the most commonly used wetting agent will build up in the grooves of reels, and become a catalyst thus producing overdeveloped edges....

I built my plywood sink in 1989 using 3 coats of West Systems 2 part epoxy. It still serves me well. No fiberglass.

Congratulations Andrew!! Good woek.

It is hard for me to understand why people want ways to duplicate wet plate, or platinum prints, or any other process instead of learning to do the process. Is it lack of material availability, or...

PVC with an inside diameter slightly smaller than the diameter of the threads will work. I have made dozens by just screwing the lens into the pipe. Sometimes it is necessary to use coarse sandpiper...

During the past 80+ years that I have used large format cameras, I have had a large variety. I have used them with an even larger variety of lenses including an f18 Protar cell. The only time I...

I can verify that statement. the complete sentence is, "In addition to the usual costs of a trip to the valley, Watkins spent plenty of god coin on photographic materials, a cutting edge Grubb-C...

When I was in college in the 40's I carried a Speed essentially all the time. Most nights I had IR flashbulbs and film as often as I could afford them. Talk about shooting in the dark - nothing like...

I'm with Steve. Stay as close to normal as possible for decent results!

Pyrocat HD will do the best job possible with these negatives. Give it a go at your expected time and temperature.!!

i am in the process of beginning to shred beginning with the newest ones. Those over 75 years old may end up with my children.

Not in the last 40 years.

The water in the Jobo base slightly floats the drum easing the load on the motor, as well as helping to maintain a constant temperature.

Your friend is doing you a favor. and he is correct!

These processes were in their prime before Panchromatic films were in theirs. Orthochromatic films were used for a great number of these and other alternative process methods. I still have an ortho...

ISO speeds are determined by the manufacturer according to the standards set. The normal course is to use film straight off the production line in a higher potency developer than is generally...

If you decide to use ortho-litho films, don't use paper developers which will increase the contrast range to essentially unusable.

I have been making salt prints for about 25 years. They do not require a "dense" negative. They require a negative with a very long scale, which means the highlights require significantly more...

I have only had a darkroom since about 1938 and have used many systems, but not the Stearman. I am perfectly satisfied with several of the systems I currently have available.

That's good to know, about the Glycin that is.

Each of these could be causing your problem. Together, there is no doubt in my mind they are the cause. You need to work at preventing all of them.

At the high cost of film these days it is difficult for me to understand why people continue to use a somewhat questionable container, and unproven developers.

A very interesting tonal scale for a beautiful portrait.

I never use the Jobo with 510 Pyro. In my mind, it works better in a tray. If you want to try a pyro based developer in a Jobo, look at Pyrocat HD or one of its derivatives.

My pre-1939 5x7 is still going strong. It s lighter in weight because it has no aluminum plate on the bottom. Original bellows still supple and no holes. The wood shows use but causes no problems. I...

It is interesting that no one so far has mentioned PRINTS!
After all, they are usually our goal. No matter how your negatives look, make prints and see what pleases you.

I don't know what you mean by "quite a bit", but most people I know use it at 1:3. Since I develop everything by inspection, i can't suggest times.

Exposure with electronic flash depends on the unit. They put out different amounts of blue and UV which are important to the x-ray film. I wonder if adding a blue gel would help decrease the amount...

I haven't been able to find mu LC-2 formula. I had a computer crash since I was using it.
Here are a few you may wish to try.
The simplest for most is probably HC110 1:100. And don't forget D-23...

Another dear friend gone. RIP Dick.

Hidden somewhere on the web is the recipe and instructions for LC-2 a designed Low Contrast developer. I began using it years ago when exposing lith film in camera. It's a marvelous recipe.
Also-...

I doubtseriouslyif they will work. I know the FS holders for my friends 7x17 will not work in my Korona. They have nor ridge for the light trap.

Sadly I am unable to get linked to the images by Tedd or Jay. I can open the web sites, but not those images.

Neat idea!

Who among us doesn't want you to post these?

There is no way to know which unknown "expert" did what research before posting on Wikipedia. I don't believe any posting there unless by a known expert whom I trust to have done proper research.

I would begin with flashing since if done properly it will have essentially no effect on the shadow and mid densities.

Reciprocity factors do seem to continue. When Ray McSavaney made his beautiful images in the abandoned Royal Tire factory with no light other than the small amount sneaking through the small high...