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  1. Re: Exposing and developing negatives for Lodima G3

    I agree. However, considering the cost of film... Id like as little error as possible.
  2. Exposing and developing negatives for Lodima G3

    Hi all,

    I got some Lodima G3 on the way, and while the instructions on how to develop and deal with the paper is pretty well described… Im not so sure on how to expose and develop the negatives I...
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    Re: Printing techniques from wet plates?

    Thanks for the feedback guys.
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    Printing techniques from wet plates?

    Hi all,

    What would be typical printing techniques for wetplates?

    And, what would a typical CI be (if there is one), and is it possible to adjust for a given printing process?

    Cheers
    Peter
  5. Re: How do I get a warmer tone when developing BW film?

    Did anyone compare the Adox and Kodak selenium toners? Whats the difference, for film in particular?
  6. Re: How do I get a warmer tone when developing BW film?

    The KISS principle is not a bad idea. Its easy to get lost in all this experimenting.
  7. Re: How do I get a warmer tone when developing BW film?

    Thanks guys. When is toning done in the process? After fix and before stab? It would be interesting to test the same scene with various degrees of toning.

    I also got some hydrochloric acid as well...
  8. Re: How do I get a warmer tone when developing BW film?

    I mean slightly warmer ;-) I mix my own stuff using a Orwo recipe where Ive replaced the phenidone with metol. I have also mixed up some Pyrocat M for developing negatives, but Im not so sure I'll...
  9. Re: How do I get a warmer tone when developing BW film?

    Im considering toners. But, if Im not mistaken, increasing the amount of potassium bromide will warm paper, maybe this works for film too. Ive also considered longer exposures to shorten the...
  10. How do I get a warmer tone when developing BW film?

    Hi all,

    Ive been experimenting quite a bit with black and white reversal film developing, and Im getting pretty close to the look I want.

    What Id like to adjust now is the tone, Id like a...
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    Re: Pyrocat adjustments/improvements

    I probably prefer the 2+2+100 over the 1+1+100. But Im having a hard time deciding if it should be exposed at 200 or 320.
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    Re: Film in freezer

    Thanks for the feedback everyone - much appreciated :-)
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    Film in freezer

    Hi all,

    When storing film in freezer, is there any consideration to take when taking it in and out? Might sound like a weird question, but Im not using as much film as I used to (I stored it in...
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    Re: Pyrocat adjustments/improvements

    Thanks Eric - I think I will :-)

    Ive been reading over Sandy's site (http://www.sandykingphotography.com/resources/technical-writing/pyro-staining-developers) again and it seems to me that if I...
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    Re: Pyrocat adjustments/improvements

    Hey. It was for two films. The TMax400 and the TMax100. The developer time was for the 400... I just threw in the 100.

    If the factory writing is supposed to be black it isnt black enough.
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    Re: Pyrocat adjustments/improvements

    Thanks Alan. Finding a way to not having to decide up front if youll print silver or carbon would be convenient.
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    Re: Pyrocat adjustments/improvements

    Thanks. Maybe Im just not used to Pyrocat negs. Ayway... these 3 photos is from left to right - phone camera with neg on a pad lightable app, and then gamma 1 rawscan, and then gamma 2 rawscan:
    ...
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    Re: Pyrocat adjustments/improvements

    Thanks Jim. Did you ever do silver prints with the 2:2:100 dilution too? With TMax400?
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    Re: Pyrocat adjustments/improvements

    Hey and thanks. At least the negative is quite clear. Pyrocat-M and Pyrocat-HD should be almost identical in use... at least according to what Ive read on Sandys' site and on UnblinkingEye. It can be...
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    Pyrocat adjustments/improvements

    Hi all,

    So, Ive run my first trial of developing TMax 400 in Pyrocat-M (this is also the first time Ive made and used Pyrocat). And Im not sure what to make of it, and if possible Id like som...
  21. Re: Any tips for home brew developers for the TMax films?

    Thanks for good advice all,

    Considering the convenience of d23 I'm likely to give that a go first :-) Are there any backsides to d23... or would that be discussing personal preference?

    Cheers...
  22. Any tips for home brew developers for the TMax films?

    Hi,

    Just out of curiosity... does anyone have any home brew developer recipes for the TMax films?

    I see that there are several here: https://www.digitaltruth.com/data.php?doc=appformulas
    But I...
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    Re: Black and white stabilizer with Tetenal E6

    Thanks for the feedback.
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    Re: Black and white stabilizer with Tetenal E6

    They came back to me and said that as an emergency solution black and white stabilizer and Mirasol 2000 can be used, but they dont recommend it. It will not keep as long, but they are talking about a...
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    Re: RA4 - how to get things right?

    Will do - thanks Drew.
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    Re: The new Ektachrome E100, Tetenal E6 and Jobo

    It says 24 weeks: https://www.digitaltruth.com/products/tetenal_tech/Tetenal-Colortec-E6-3-Bath-Kit-2.5L-Instructions.pdf
    Its probably gonna be good for longer :-)
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    Re: The new Ektachrome E100, Tetenal E6 and Jobo

    I usually mix up 500ml. No need to mix up the entire thing. It has shorter shelf life mixed up.
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    Re: RA4 - how to get things right?

    Ahem... I actually have that book... Thanks :-) But good point. I suppose its just as easy making test strips from a cut 16x20.

    There is a thing under the lens I can move in front of it it I want...
  29. Black and white reversal - experimentation with different developers

    Hi all,

    I've been comparing PQ, Dokumol and Dektol with TMax100 (at 25+50+100 iso) and TMax400 (at 100+200+400 iso). I don't get good results with Dokumol and Tmax400 and I don't understand why....
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    Re: RA4 - how to get things right?

    I tried filling and emptying the paper drums today just to see how long that took. I tried with both a 3063 expert drum and a 2830 drum. The kind of drum didnt seem to matter much (considering the...
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    Re: The new Ektachrome E100, Tetenal E6 and Jobo

    I have never tried the Bellini kit but Tetenals Colortec kit is brilliant. You can read abit here (it is Tetenal about Tetenal):...
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    Re: RA4 - how to get things right?

    The fill and drain time of the Jobo drums is why I tried with trays. With the 3005 drums you pretty much have to start draining as soon as youve filled it up. Particularly if you are timing as...
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    Re: RA4 - how to get things right?

    Thanks Drew - I'll keep that in mind ;-)
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    Re: RA4 - how to get things right?

    Good evening,

    And thanks :-)

    I am using a Durst M670 Color. Ive been using both trays room temp (3 first), and a Jobo CPA2 (tempering bath at 35C) with lift and a Expert Drum 3005 (the 4th.)....
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    Re: RA4 - how to get things right?

    Thanks guys - appreciate this :-)
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    Re: RA4 - how to get things right?

    Thanks guys. Are both of you doing this in drums at 35/95 degrees? How particular are you about timing your baths?
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    RA4 - how to get things right?

    Hi all,

    I just took some time off work to try to figure out how to do RA4 printing. I tried both in trays at room temp and in drums at 35 Celsius / 95 Fahrenheit.

    I used the same neg and tried...
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    Re: Black and white stabilizer with Tetenal E6

    Still waiting.
  39. Re: Aspherical, Apo(chromatic) & ED (extra low dispersion) lenses - whats the differe

    Bernice, the goal would be to get a digitized copy that contains as much as possible of the original information. Today I use a drumscanner I got at a reasonable price - and it works quite well.
    ...
  40. Re: Aspherical, Apo(chromatic) & ED (extra low dispersion) lenses - whats the differe

    This is more interesting then I thought it would be. As far as I understand, though, is that a APO-corrected lens is useful for reproduction and scanning (with dslr) large format negatives with,...
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