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    Re: IR 760 filter - rating film speed

    Can't you simply use a step-up ring to fit your 67mm filter on your 49 thread lens?
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    Re: Keeping Time tray developing film

    I used to use a Durst colortim until I built a digital darkroom clock with a few useful features; beeps at 30 second intervals during countdown and and long beep at zero, among others.
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    Re: HC110 1:63 mushy flat negatives dilution H

    What film?
  4. Re: Use of X-ray film: technical discussion with example images

    In my experience xray film is quite sensitive to over and under agitation. EB/RA less so than generic double sided, but still. Haven't tried stand development with it as I never saw the need for it....
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    Re: C-41 Developer Failure

    Mixed c41 developer generally easily lasts 4 weeks, provided that there is no oxygen in the bottle. You mention you didn't use an inert purge gas; does that mean that the developer was stored in a...
  6. Re: Box of paper dated 1952, what to do with it?

    Yes, try it out, and if it fails, go the origami route suggested by Bob. Sometimes, old paper can be surprisingly good. Agfa Brovira from the 1980s (I guess) comes to mind. I use that regularly and...
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    Re: Citric and acetic acid as stop (bath)

    I generally keep my citric acid stop bath around for maximum ca 10 days. It's easy to tell when it goes bad as it will have strands of slime floating around in it. Discarding after one session is of...
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    Re: Paper similar to Hahnemühle Photo Rag

    It's probably impossible to find something with an identical surface, but matte fiber papers sometimes have a 'velvety' surface. Fomabrom matte comes to mind. Of course any silver gelatin paper can...
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    Re: Citric and acetic acid as stop (bath)

    I've never experienced any difference between a plain water stop and an acetic stop in b&w. With color negative I'd suggest always using an acetic acid stop bath. With b&w, some form of stop or rinse...
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    Re: Citric and acetic acid as stop (bath)

    With great care!! That stuff is nasty. Seriously, I use unparfumated cleaning vinegar because I wouldn't want to have glacial acetic acid around the house, and I'm pretty used to having nasty stuff...
  11. Re: My first packs of film will be Arista EDU 100 - Which were yours?

    I started out just like you, with Foma100 (=Arista Edu 100). To a large extent, I stuck with it, but I also shoot other types of film - sometimes TMAX100, and also Foma 200 and Foma 400. Frankly, I...
  12. Thread: Rinsing

    by koraks
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    Re: Rinsing

    With color, a rinse in between consecutive baths (but not before a stop bath) can help stretch the lifetime of bleach and fix.
    With b&w, there's not much need apart from the things Doremus points...
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    Re: kodak Tmax RS developer formula

    I don't think you can. It's a proprietary product. The MSDS probably will give some general clues.
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    Re: Ilford multigrade contrast differences?

    I quoted another post. Read back, you'll find it.

    One of the difficulties of establishing absolute speed ratings for paper is the spectrum of the light source used. If you throw a known and...
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    Re: Ilford multigrade contrast differences?

    That was not my comment. And grade 5 will evidently never have a higher iso r grade than 100. But maybe you didn't mean grade 5 FB when you spoke of FB 5 grade?
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    Re: Ilford multigrade contrast differences?

    Pere, look what I wrote. ISO R ratings are not about speed, they are about contrast. Apparently Ilford list the quite light ISO R figure in their data sheet. Again: paper ISO R is not about exposure...
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    Re: Ilford multigrade contrast differences?

    > Then there is paper ISO speed chart which for grade 5 indicates 100 for RC and 210 for FB. Would this suggest that the high contrast layer of FB is about twice as fast as RC? ISO-R values don't...
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    Re: Ilford multigrade contrast differences?

    Are these papers both fresh? Older papers generally behave differently, hence the question.
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    Re: Professional Home film processing 4x5 neg

    Lowest cost is achieved (for practical purposes) when using minilab chemistry. Costs per sheet are minimal; never calculated them, but vanishingly small compared to commercial lab development. Kodak...
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    Re: Pyrocat-HD Sudden Death!

    Yeah, the thermometer is a good idea.
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    Re: Pyrocat-HD Sudden Death!

    I can say from first hand experience that heating glycol and TEA in a microwave can be risky. Those are some nasty burns you get when the stuff boils. Just be careful. I prefer a hot water jacket...
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    Re: Pyrocat-HD Sudden Death!

    It all lasts several years. Don't worry.
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    Re: Trouble viewing photographs

    Everything looks fine from here.
    Note that most photos on here are actually hosted on different sites such as Flickr. Hence, if the photos don't show up, the cause should usually not be sought on...
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    Re: Gum Bichromate Printing

    Let it stand for a few days. It tends to get a little thinner and smoother. In the long term it even ferments and gets a bit more runny (and acidic) in my experience.
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    Re: Making retouch ink less glossy

    You might want to try mixing in a little cornstarch, talcum, calcium carbonate etc with your ink. Experimental, but it may work in a pinch.
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    Re: What did you compose at Waters Edge?

    My guess is that because the motions when riding a wave follow a sinusoidal pattern. This means that acceleration is the highest in the rising and falling slopes, but there is little acceleration...
  27. Re: Is it possible to change contrast of final print?

    If the whites are where they should be but the blacks are lacking to a significant degree, a last resort can be chromium intensification. It'll alter image tone towards green but it does boost...
  28. Re: 35mm color enlarger for 4x5 b&w contact printing?

    Note that the color led bulb may be OK for b&with, but it's highly unlikely to work well with color. I've been toying with rgb leds for color a lot lately and products like these just don't cut it....
  29. Re: 35mm color enlarger for 4x5 b&w contact printing?

    Pretty much any color enlarger will do, really. Just get whatever is available. I've done it with a Durst 605 because it's what I have sitting on my bench. Works perfectly. Aligning the neg and the...
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    Re: Pyrocat-HD Sudden Death!

    Which is what Alan did, and his stock turned bad within 15 months. Hence the valid question, and the limitation of your textbook response, which evidently does not cover the issue at hand.

    To gain...
  31. Re: What size paper do you print the most? What's the biggest print you've made?

    Most of my prints are between 4x5 (contacts) and 8x10 (enlargements). Larger prints are nice, but most of my prints are viewed hand-held or occasionally end up on my walls where I don't really have...
  32. Thread: Film developer

    by koraks
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    Re: Film developer

    I use a lot of instant mytol, which is an xtol clone. I like it a lot because of the fine grain, slight highlight rolloff and full emulsion speed. I never much cared for d76 due to the harsh...
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    Re: Handling xray film

    What's the problem exactly? Can't get the film out of the bag, or scratching, or yet something else?
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    Re: C-41 Development - First time

    Looks like a massive light leak in the holder or the development tank.
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    Re: C-41 Development - First time

    You can re-bleach and re-fix C41 no problem. You can even do it at room temperature, but it takes a lot longer. Times, as long as they are long enough, are not critical as bleach and fix are both to...
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    Re: The Setup and the Shot

    Thank you.

    The music is by Kodály; you'll find all details in the video description.
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    Re: The Setup and the Shot

    Many thanks!
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    Re: The Setup and the Shot

    4x5" salted paper print
    http://www.koraks.nl/galleries/prints/SPPV1981_EBRA_SPP_SS300_01.jpg

    This is the 'set up' - actually the making of the print, starting with setting up the shot and ending...
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    Re: C-41 Development - First time

    Looking good!
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    Re: C-41 Development - First time

    If you're only scanning, you'll get away with most inaccuracies in the process. It's a different story if you ever want to print these optically. I have several negatives here that I once thought...
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