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It is not a Dagor type.

I asked this question a few years ago and nobody chimed in on whether it would work or not. Having some long expired film, I tried it out.

At infinity, stopped down to f:32, straight on with no...

Does anybody have experience with one of these? I'd appreciate your thoughts on it.

The mfg conclusion is that they were cooked at some point. I picked them up at Freestyle, didn't leave them in the car, an stored them in the darkroom.

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Hello Mr....

Since I had 3 of them go bad -- unopened -- after a 6/21 purchase I think it is a bad batch.

I noticed today I had a box of RF that was two years older than the ones that went bad. It's fine. ...

Of course I'll take it back if Freestyle tells me to pound sand, but so far the people making it now seem very responsive:

Mr. Crisp,

Thank you for sending photos which clearly provide the lot...

I have all this worked out in a notebook I carry. Send me a personal email address and I'll scan the table and send it to you.

You must (especially with the Zeiss singles) check and correct your...

My working solution, which lasted longer than these two newer ones in reserve, didn't go toes up in the usual fashion. In the past, when the RF goes it gets lots of small while flakes in it. The...

If you pour the fixer out of the stock sealed bottle, it comes out as a yellowish clouded mush. It will choke a filter funnel in seconds. I don't think there is any question it is bad.

Correct.

I know from decades of experience that in a sealed stock bottle (and now, box) it will last for many years. Based on this recent experience, where the mixed fixer seems to have lasted longer than...

Per Kodak (and this is consistent with my experience) the shelf life of the concentrate in the box, undiluted, is "indefinite." So if it goes bad in well under a year in a cool darkroom something is...

I've been using Rapid Fixer since I developed my first roll of film back around 1970. So I know the product.

This evening I reached for my mixed jug of it. It has been about 11 months and it had...

I just scanned my original for a member. Since it is a file here on my office computer, send me a PM with a real email address if you would want one too.

Kevin

I've had one lens, a 240mm Nikkor, that came to me with a spotted front element. Nothing would clean them off. Then I tried a lens pen and they came right off. I supposed it depends if there is...

I have a very late version of this lens, in a factory Copal, with a serial number in the 11's. It has a light colored very even ring around the front element at the very edge. works great.
...

Generally this is not a problem. Try a relatively dim room interior, expose for the interior, but have an open door or a window with much brighter light on the outside. Unless you have the same...

If you get a chance to see a Robert Adams exhibit, you might conclude technically excellent printing isn't a priority. Hasn't held him back.

I have an original circa 1969 Schneider sales brochure. The available R Clarons were: 55, 135, 210, 305, 355, 420, 485 and 610. No "APO 1s," or APO 2's.

So often even technical mistakes can't detract from an excellent photo. You can't tell by looking at a photo book, but if you get a chance to see an actual print of Migrant Mother you'll notice the...

You might consider the Fujinon 180mm SF lens. They are inexpensive -- make sure you get one with one of the diffusion discs. There's a red disc and yellow disc. Stopped down they are plenty sharp,...

I have a Zone Vi modified meter, and my experiences reading through a deep red filter always resulted in significant underexposure. Adding 3 to 4 stops of exposure instead hasn't been a problem. ...

Keith Canham offers what he calls "tune ups." I think it runs $100 more or less. There's tight and then there's tight, and when properly adjusted things like the sliding parts the secure the front...

I'll add another:

- You could have taken that one if all you had was a Crown Graphic.

I've got two that come immediately to mind:

1. If you buy a good incident meter and learn to use it you won't have any trouble properly exposing film. And you'll get your exposure faster.

2. ...

Just FYI, the first coat of Sharpie will be translucent. But you can build it up with 2 more coats and it isn't. You work fast so you don't take off the coat underneath.

I think a Sharpie can be...

On the protars I have disassembled and reglued, the black (glossy, by the way) edge paint naturally comes off during the MEK or Acetone soaking to clean off the balsam. It may sound dumb, but I've...

If there is significant pitting, once you've got the surfaces cleaned off, apply a thin layer of Bondo "glazing and spot putty." You don't have to mix it, it comes out of a tube and it's cheap. ...

I wouldn't treat this situation like its Stage IV pancreatic cancer. I've got 4 of these, and all of them have a little of it. I agree on the steel wool. Then you will see pitting, if there is any...

Put your negative on a light box and look at it with a powerful magnifying glass. My guess is that you have a scanning issue and the negative will look sharp. If you zoom into one of your 4X5 scans...

Eric is right. I've gone with the g claron in this focal length. Still easy to focus with f:9 max aperture. MUCH smaller than a faster one. The R Claron would have plenty of coverage for 4X5 and...

Well, that's the same principal of operation, anyway.

Just out of curiosity. My college had a fancy student darkroom, financed in part by an Olin Foundation grant. No expense was spared, and it had things like descending spring-loaded light baffles...

Should be fine, just let the film and holders get up to room temperature before you open the bag.

I've been keeping loaded film holders in bags in a fridge at 36 F for 30+ years (rotating them in...

I suspect this works well with The Zoned System.

If the TN ones were Jack Deardorff Photographic Products I tried one out and the quality was excellent.

The Chicago ones were delivered?

I find the little peep optical sight, even with the proper mask, easy to resist. I just take them off.

If your Fresnel is the original, the smooth side is supposed to go forward toward the camera lens. It helps -- a little, and back in the day lots of view cameras did not have Fresnels. Personally,...

In general how reliable are they? Have you found them repairable when they act up? I've only had one, ever, and it didn't work well and I was told it couldn't be fixed. I am wondering if my...