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One of it's "official" purposes is to attach the lensboard holders (Sinar No. 531.41) which help to prevent accidentally dropping a lensboard when chaning lenses.
...

Hi Leigh,

I need the distance for the regular 4x5 front standard.

Hi all,

i'm planning a large format camera build which will probably use some Sinar parts. It would be great if an owner of a Sinar F2 could measure the distance from the Rail center to the...

Van Dyke Brown

http://www.orthography.de/bilder/vdb/lampe/lampe.jpg

Two new Van Dykes.

http://www.orthography.de/bilder/vdb/colaflasche/colaflasche.jpg

http://www.orthography.de/bilder/vdb/ringe/ringe.jpg

Nike with a distracting upper left corner. 4x5" Van Dyke Brown.

http://www.orthography.de/bilder/vdb/nike/nike.jpg

Ramiro,

your first tonings are very nice, definitely better than mine. :)
In my experience, you can bleach for quite a long time, if heavy toning is desired. I sometimes bleach until all...

Ramiro,

I always use sodium carbonate for bleaching, and either instant coffee or tannic acid for toning. These two were toned in coffee.

I find that with coffee I get better results when...

Hi Dan,

the print was toned and fixed in a "monobath" of selenium toner 4+900 for two minutes. I read on Wolfgang Moersch's website that this was possible, and it eliminates the risk of excessive...

Twig Ball
4x5" Van Dyke Brown

http://www.orthography.de/bilder/vdb/weidenball/weidenball.jpg

Two toned cyanotypes of some tests with the Rollei Heidosmat 250mm/3 projection lens on 4x5".

http://www.orthography.de/bilder/cyanotypien/stephanie/stephanie1.jpg
...

http://abload.de/img/flaschejxu4h.jpg

Toned Cyanotype

112082

Toned Cyanotype

Cyanotype toned in tannic acid.

http://abload.de/img/teekanne0mso2.jpg

I know, i'm late and you may already know by now: The MT2 carbon toner does indeed make prints more archival. It's a combined sulphide-selenium toner.

Thanks ndg and Erik!
I also like the tones, but i'm having a hart time getting the scan to look like the original. I can't get both the color of the paper base and the toned image itself right....

Coffee toned Cyanotype

http://abload.de/img/shakerefxxb.jpg

The ingredients stay the same. I think you scrolled down too far and read the instructions for Pyrocat HDC instead of HD.

A quick copy+paste of the instructions for P. HD:

Mixing directions...

I didn't use these types of film, but i develop Fuji HR-U x-ray film in Rodinal 1+100 for 6 minutes. This should give you a starting point.

You can see some of my pictures with this combination in...

I don't pre-soak the film, but I will for the two-bath development. I develop by inversion or by rotation, never in trays (I just don't like it :) ). The anti-halation layer comes off sometime during...

Raul, using a diluted paper dev or even the C41 dev for high contrast films is a common technique (and could be called a low-contrast developer), but I didn't try that yet. Which dilution of dektol...

I don't have a 3010 but the 3005 and the 3006. Both work fine on my motor base with divided Pyrocat. 1+20 works fine for me with normal films, but the FO5 gets too contrasty in managable times over 3...

I think that the amount of solution (or concentrate for that matter) was enough. I developed one test sheet of 4x5 in 750ml of 1+300 solution.

Sandy,

thank you for your detailed answer! For...

I will, Jim ;)
But it's always good to have some starting points or experiences before "wasting" developer.

Hi there and a happy new year!

I'm experimenting with higher dilutions of Pyrocat HD for lith film. 1+1+200 works fine, but when I tried 1+1+300 yesterday, I got a massive increase of stain. Is...

A 120mm/14 Perigraphe might be an option. No shutter but very small, light and rather cheap. They regularily go for less than 100 Euros here in Germany. I paid 120 for mine, but it came mounted on a...

480mm Apo-Ronars can be found in Copal 3 shutters, so that would be one option. I don't think that every version can be screwed right in, but i'm sure someone here can tell you exactly which version...

Randy,
your contribution is very welcome, and i really like your 4x10" photos!
In my search for a budget wide lens for 8x10" i also came across the GRIIs, but they're not being offered much here in...

I'm fine with barrel lenses and using a cap as shutter. So far, only one of my LF lenses is shutter mounted, which is not a problem as i work with paper negatives most of the time. When using film i...

ronish1 , thank you very much for your tests and observations!
Sounds like a cheap wide-angle option for 8x10 is coming close. I can get the lens including flange for 10 Euros, and - given mine will...

Agreed, but i read two posts in forums from people claiming that their 150mm Repromaster does cover 8x10" at infinity with just some vignetting in the outmost corners. If this would proof to be true,...

Jody & ronish1, thank you, i'm looking forward to your observations!


I already have a 210mm/9 Apo-Gerogon as my moderate wide for 8x10" which was salvaged from some kind of process- or...

Dan, i think you're right about that, but depending on the type of falloff and the amount of vignetting i *could* live with insufficient coverage/illumination as the camera will be some kind of...

Thank you, Ian!

I guess i'll have to do my own testing. I can get the 150/9 for little money, so i can probably sell it without loss. It would be a nice Lens for my diy wide-angle camera, if it...

I sometimes find people claming that the Repromaster 150mm/9 will almost cover 8x10 at infinity, with a little vignetting in the outmost corners, although there is no information given regarding the...

Already posted this in the Heliar-thread, shot it on thursday.
30cm Heliar @ f/8, 8x10", two minute exposure with ambient artificial light, Efke 25, developed in Pyrocat HD.
...

30cm/4.5 @f/8
Efke 25 8x10" in Pyrocat HD

http://www.abload.de/img/tassekanneschaley2odo.jpg

Thanks Jim,
this coming from you means a lot to me, as your pictures inspired me and raised my interest in the old lenses. :)

30cm/4.5 wide open

Efke 25 8x10" in Pyrocat HD

http://www.mgeiss.de/bilder/samowar.jpg

Thanks Jerry!


Yes, that's the main reason why I'm looking for a Norma back. It requires nearly no front rise to center the lens in contrast to the P/P2 conversion back.