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Jason's dry plate holders are not 3D printed. I have a 4x5 and 8x10 holder and have been very pleased with the product. Highly recommended!

Have you looked at Jason's dry plate holder? See https://www.pictoriographica.com/store/p16/chromagraphica.html

I remember seeing some post somewhere out in cyberland that this paper had changed. Have you tried a Google search? Sorry, it was some time ago and cannot recall where I saw it.

I've always heard that the rough side should face the lens (ergo, smooth side toward you) and that the fresnel should sit on top of the ground glass. I only have one 4x5 with a fresnel installed and...

I have enjoyed using my 4x5 reel. Easy to load and does what it's supposed to. I don't mind the 1L worth of chemistry required.

Yep. I used tray development of 4x5 and 8x10 film for my first 15 years with LF and settled for what I got; not many other options available back in the 70's. Then, I moved on to BTZS tubes and they...

Yep...that's me...do something that no one else is doing! ;) FWIW, I don't use the SP-445 for "keepers" due to the issues I've had with it. I use it only for quick tests.

First, the only absolutely even development that I've ever found is obtained in Jobo Expert Drums on my CPP-2. I know this doesn't help you any with the SP-445, but I wanted to say that up front....

How about Kodak's TMax films? Easy contrast manipulation.

My RRS BH-55 ball head has this tensioning knob and it works, as expected. But, I still prefer a 3-way pan/tilt head for my 8x10 'Dorff.

Personally, I love the tonal relationships revealed by Fomapan 100 and have shot quite a bit of it in both 4x5 and 8x10. I have processed it using several different developers--Pyrocat-HD, HC-110,...

Like Sal, I leave mine in for extended periods. Also, +1 his comment regarding use of a silver oxide battery.

I don't know for sure, but I always thought the "R" version of Sekonic's meters simply included the radio transmitter for flash?

I prefer the Gitzo G1570M for my 8x10 Deardorff, but a RRS BH-55 works fine for my 8x10 Intrepid.

Per recommendation from Jason Lane, I use the following from Gaylord Archival for both 4x5 and 8x10 glass plates:

1) GNB45BG - Archival Blue/Gray Barrier Board Glass Negative Storage System
2)...

Welcome to the slippery slope. And, to the forums?

That you hadn't had GAS in awhile? :D

Don't know about the math, but I just measured one of my 4" tanks, if it helps...

The tank is 16cm tall (including the end cap) and with a sheet of 4x5 film inserted with long edge down it's 56mm...

Yeah, the only issue I see with a taller 3" tube is getting your fingers down into it far enough to grab the film. I suppose to could push it down just far enough to clear the cap, but, then, if it...

I have his video series on EMA and have employed his technique many times, but I don't believe developer volume has anything to do with adjacency effects; rather it has much to do with enough stock...

575ml

Hopefully, someone with this style of Linhof branded shutter release will step in, but would it be possible to just remove that contraption and use a normal shutter release cable?

I use the same diameter tubes for both 4x5 and 8x10--4 inches. My 8x10 tubes hold about 1,350ml of developer and I've never had any issues with development.

Personally, after nearly 40 years of pretty regular use of 8x10 I've always found that the negatives "print themselves." That is, very little dodging and burning is necessary to reach a final print....

No downsides to D23 in my experience. It's a great developer that's easy to mix. Good luck and have fun!

I've gotten quite nice results out of TMax 100 in Pyrocat-HD.

Many years ago, nearly 40, in fact, I did some direct comparisons between 4x5 and 8x10 shot on the same film, processed the same, etc. I enlarged the 4x5 to 8x10 and contact printed the 8x10, and...

What Drew said. Get a simple laser pointer and focus the point at the subject.

Exactly! And, personally I don't understand all this "develop one way for printing in the darkroom" and "develop a different way, if you're scanning." Not that anyone should do what I do, but I...

IMO, "development controls" is a pretty broad and general statement. In the simplest terms, it means changing development time and/or temp to expand or contract the high values (plus/minus...

Same here.

Doremus,

Very well articulated and, in general, I agree with your technique. I probably over-simplified with my example because part of what I'm doing while scanning the scene is evaluating the...

Love the dunes image, John! And, yes, a perfect example of where extreme back movements really helps image presentation, IMO (and yours, too, apparently.)

I have found that you need to provide some sort of shading above the lens, especially on overcast days. I use the darkslide.

I remember standing in Harry Lunn's gallery in Washington D.C. in the mid-70's holding a 16x20 copy of Moonrise for IIRC $1,600! I told my then new bride, "We should buy this." Yeah, right! No way...

Just like a lot things with photography...not if you use your brain! That's why following averaging of my shadow/highlight readings I scan the scene with the button held down to reveal EV offsets...

Pretty much the way I work with my Sekonic L-558, except I don't mess with a middle value. I meter and store the reading for detailed shadows, same for detailed highlights, and average the readings....

I don't do portraits, but for landscapes it mostly depends on what I anticipate and how large a camera I think I can carry. If working from the car, I like using my 8x10 Deardorff with either a 240mm...

Leica M6, 50/2 Summicron, Adox CHS 100 II, Beutler

210435

Fomapan 100 in Pyrocat-HD with minimal agitation is another of my favorites! FWIW