This weekend I tested three lens; a Fuji 300mm 5.6, a Cervees 250mm f 4, a silent film projector lens 300mm seems to be f4 ish. The Cervees is probably a B&L rebranded. The projector lens is named...
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This weekend I tested three lens; a Fuji 300mm 5.6, a Cervees 250mm f 4, a silent film projector lens 300mm seems to be f4 ish. The Cervees is probably a B&L rebranded. The projector lens is named...
I also have a no name “petzval” is there a link to a method of determine the proper assembly of the elements or is it simply a trial and error process?
I am only improving on your ideas. I used scraps of a pvc sheet. Easy to sand to the shape.
Thanks I’m guessing I could place one behind the rear cell. There is no slot for a Waterhouse stop.
I have a brass magic lantern lens. I am wondering if I can add an aperture and reduce the softness of the lens?
Thanks 242565
I modified the technique for a horseman board242553
Typically the diaphragm for the aperture is between the front and rear elements. Is there a reason it can’t be in front of the lens or behind?
Thanks
I recently received my Svedovsky 8x10. It took about 5 months from commission to delivery. Small problem with the back and spring, but pretty easy to fix. Works well all the movements except back...
Here are two examples from this lens. 218791218792
Thanks to you both for the information. I’m still interested in the technical explanation of the increase in “depth of field”. I’ll download Dan’s article.
Thanks again for this generous community
Another question? Do you know when the system of naming F stops changed from the universal to the current system?
Thanks Steve
Searching the threads for “ Dallmeyer and soft effect” I was able to learn a good deal. Seems there maybe hundreds of similar lens designed sold in this era. Cervees doesn’t seem to...
I recently acquired a large brass lens from a trusted source. It is marked 2A Cervees. It doesn’t have a knob and tread, but the rear element has four markings suggesting turning the element will...
Just finished a very productive weekend of plates about 20 over two days. The last however is riddled with artifacts. I’m mainly concerned about the veil along the right and lower border. I think it...
Thanks to you all. Yes I’m doing wetplate. I’ll look for a Kodak Anastigmat. Paul your example is quite helpful.
Brent
I have achieved a bit of competence and can get good stuff 75-90% of the time doing portraits. I have two nice lenses, a no name ? Tessar 300 4.5 maybe a copy lens and a Fuji 300mm 5.6. Both render...
I am sorry I can’t help you. Mine is a different sliding back. I would check with Tom L. He is certain to have some advice.
Could you post a picture of the whole back? I have a sliding 1/2 plate back that takes century 5x7 cassettes. I think it is similar. The swivel latches are for masks that could be for partial...
Very nice plate.
Success with 2400ws and wetplate. Uvx collodion feso4 developer and KCN fixer. 4x5 , 250mm teleoptar. Old speed graphic if you must ask. 210894
Thanks Philip
Your critique of the composition is something I have been hoping to get for awhile. Wetplate work is so often a mixture of casual and formal and very few of our colleagues have...
Here is a plate I did today. I have been working on my timing. Boy that is hard. I got a decent image, group portraits as you can see are hard.
F6.3 300mm, coffer’s FeS04 about 25 secs, kcn,...
Here is today’s test plate. 4 Mississippi, 30cm f 6.3 Quinn’s FeSO4 30 sec dev time. Not much of a composition but the subject held still208939
Went back into the box today and worked through the development time of the Quinn Jacobson solution and came up with between 30-45 seconds. Then did a few plates. I am certain I was overexposing...
Welcome
I agree with the group, you have a bit of a learning curve ahead of you. I know I still do and I am a couple of years ahead of you. Wetplate is not a walk in the park. You really can’t...
I’ll do some more work. The formula is correct. The safe light is a red led so good there.
Well I did 1/2 of what you said. I did a test and actually came up with 5-7 secs. But I did switch to Quinn’s formula. I would love to lengthen the time, if just to better appreciate the detail...
Thanks
Do you have a different developer? I agree I struggle with the timing. As I have slowly improved my technique this year I have tried to be as consistent as possible changing only one factor...
Thanks for the response. The subject was sitting to the north, so the sun was behind the camera, though both are in shade. I’d say I am experienced but really only the last three months have I been...
I just rehabbed a Century 1, and using the 7inch sliding back have been working on some test images. The image below was one of the better attempts. I have a few typical problems, with the pour...
Improved wash before fixing has solved the issue. Thanks all.
Thanks for the responses. I’ll double my wash time and vigor and see how that works.
Thanks everyone but I’d was a bound set of volumes. These suggestions are great resources.
I am getting a subtle blue tint on some of my ambrotypes. Cyanide fixer. I suspect it is from that. Is it too little wash, too much wash, my developer? Not enough stop, anyone have any idea? It is...
I once came across a multivolume catalog of 19th century photography. I have forgotten the name of it. Can anyone help me?
Thanks in advance
Brent
Thanks I have made an inquiry
Brent
I am about to mount a “modern” lens on a 2D board. The used lens I have is currently in a metal 90mm board. Ideally I would drill a 2 1/2 inch hole in the 2D board and enlarge it with a file and...
I’m interested in buying a 300mm 5.6 modern style lens. My lurking on eBay has confused me a bit. It seems to me that the general trend is that the Fuji lenses are the most economical. But if look...
Those of you familiar with John Coffer (“modern” father of wet plate), should know that he uses exclusively rainwater. Having visited him and taken a course. He certainly has no problem, and like...
Thanks everyone for the insights