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Hello,
I'm interested about the 4x5 by Intrepid, but I often do long exposures (5 to 8 mins).
I thought the camera might be too light and not stable enough for it. I've used a Toyo 45A before, and...

I have a cheap machine for producing distilled water so it's not a problem for me. I'm getting much cleaner negative when using distilled water in all stages of the process.

Thanks for the advice. It didn't happen with the other negative in the same tank though. I will be careful not to wash after ilfotol.
Initial pre-rinse should help the developer reach the entire...

Yes, it is light on the negative, and therefore, dark on the positive image. It's happened on the short side as well, and always with neutral background. Neutral, meaning no texture, such as water or...

I usually pre-rinse for 5 minutes. Would you agitate the whole time?

I'm facing this problem after developing, successfully, about a dozen negative. White stripes and patches on the positive.

My procedure, is always the same:

Pre-rinse (no agitation) for 5 mins...

Thanks for the suggestion. Using distilled also improved a lot. With distilled water and energetic agitation, everything seems to be fine so far.

do you have any experience with tmax and ilfosol 3? I'm asking because I prefer liquid developer.

I'm pre washing now and agitating much more vigorously. So far, the negatives come out ok, so I think you are right.

Thanks for the suggestion but I do mostly architecture and a grad filter would interfere with the buildings.

So you rate it at 100 and put the shadows in zone 3? Is there any difference, in practice, versus rating at 50 and under developing?

I usually rate Tmax at 50 and develop 20% less, with Ilford DDX 1+4 (Stop and Fixer also by Ilford).

Since it's usually mid-day (overcast or cloudy), they sky is significantly brighter than the...

I just noticed that when I edit a 16-bit scan in photoshop, gradients tend to lead to posterization, especially with heavy transitions in areas with no texture (sky or water, with long exposure), to...

Thanks for your help. Using distilled water solved the problem.

Hi,
they are white spots on the positive image.

I'm usually getting tiny white spots on the developed film, much like these, from another photographer.

In my case I have far fewer and I have to zoom all the way in to get to see them. Mine are...

I'm using jpeg and opened the image in Chrome. I usually don't have problems, even when gradients are subtle but I have an issue with this particular image.

I will try with png, haven't thought...

I just found out that gentle vs vigorous agitation depends on whether or not the tank is is full. When I was doing it gently, the tank was full and that might explain uneven development.

With...

It is a negative scan, and used Silverfast with it, and see shading only along the long side.

I did a test yesterday at home and I did not see the bands anymore. This time I did the inversions...

I add medium/heavy vignetting to some of my images, by choice.

As my images are B&W (16 bit), I then typically add uniform monochrome noise when I see banding. Occasionally, though, I see banding...

I developed another negative with the mod54 and got the same result. I think it might be the bellows that is shading a bit.

No, I would have to send it to a shop for replacement. Does a 30mm recessed board work for Toyo?

Yes, that might be the case. But I'm getting limited movements with my 75mm lens. I'm also dreaming of using wider lenses.

I own a 17mm recessed board for 110mmx110m but cannot find anything deeper anywhere on the internet. Does anybody sell or makes them (either in US or Europe)?

Thanks a lot NER. I did not do pre-rinse, but I think your suggestion is s. There is spot on. There is no way to check but it makes perfect sense. I will be more careful next time.

Why would it happen on the right side of the image only?

I just developed a sheet and I noticed a dark strip on the right side of the image (see attached). I'm not sure what that could be (I used the sp45 development tank).


191888

I usually do 6 to 8 minutes long exposure, and I'm now trying to do the same with a 4x5 camera.

The lens has an opening to let the shutter cocking mechanism work. Should I worry about it for long...

Upon checking, I think it might be the adaptor ring by Formatt Hitech (the Schneider CF filter fits perfectly). Would it be safe to lubricate that just slightly?

The two lenses are Schneider and Nikon. The filter holder is a brand new Formatt Hitech.

On the outside both lenses seem just fine. But I hear a grinding noise when screwing the holder adaptor.

My two lenses are probably a bit too old and the filter holder thread doesn't fit in very smoothly (makes noise sometime). Are there any recommended products to make things better?

That way your image would triple in size right?

The nice thing about negafix is that it tries to emulate the specific film in use. I'm not sure I could do that with curve adjustments. Did you find curve adjustments for different types of film...

The problem with scanning at 48 bit is that the file becomes huge at 2400dpi. Should I reduce to 1600?

The problem is on the negative, I just checked.

Do you see any advantage in using RAW format (Silverfast version of RAW). I've been using the 16->8 mode for a while now, and it seems just fine in post-processing.

I like using the 16->8 mode when scanning B&W negatives because I can use the negafix to adjust for the specific film I'm using.

I found it very hard to emulate the results from negafix using...

I'm following massive dev chart, and use the sp445 tank. The camera is a Toyo 45A. What is strange is that another negative of the same image does not have that problem and I developed it in the same...

The bottom part of my scanned negative seems to be slightly darker. I'm not sure what the problem might have been. Any ideas?

There is a button for opening and closing the rear standard (when folding the camera). All of the sudden the button does not click anymore, but I'm still able to fold the camera.

Am I missing...