247959
TMY-2/Ilford MG Classic
Type: Posts; User: Michael R; Keyword(s):
247959
TMY-2/Ilford MG Classic
I think this is correct - ie gold toning on its own will tend to give blue-black tones, and often the blue-black shift will be more pronounced on a warm tone paper than a cold or neutral tone paper....
I think you are right. My guess is the extra low EIs people assign to TXP are primarily a Zone System thing as TXP and HC-110 were a popular combo in the 1970s-80s. Given the shape of TXP’s curve,...
The Tri-X 320 characteristic curve is highly “upswept” with a relatively long toe and very high highlight contrast. It’s a fairly unique film in its tone reproduction compared with pretty much...
Sodium chloride would increase solvent effect - that's what Microdol/Perceptol use in addition to sulfite.
In any case, these divided metol-sulfite developers will generally all do the same thing...
An issue above is the difference in contrast, which makes evaluating graininess and perceived sharpness problematic. The image on the right looks more contrasty to me but not sharper. Although...
You’re probably thinking of Sprint: 247745
Their fixer is great and they also make the best stop bath in the business (not that stop bath is anything to be pondered over but just saying).
It’s not necessarily only photography, other artforms too. They’re different than sports because those are generally shared activities. I think it’s less about wanting to sell things per se and more...
Make huge prints I guess.
It looks to me like there is some optical diffusion softening everything, so nothing to do with exposure/processing as far as I can see. One way to achieve this is with some diffusion at the...
I wonder though if it’s a fake image taken with a fake camera do the two fakes make a real? I think so.
Sprint is good. It’s too bad you don’t see it mentioned much. Maybe people associate it with schools or whatever and assume it isn’t for the serious crowd. Anyhow I’d go with that or Ilford before...
That’s true. Drew made his out of some sort of laminated sequoia tree.
TF-4 is alkaline. TF-5 is neutral (actually slightly acidic, as are most neutral fixers).
They’re fine, just not necessary. The pyro stain business is nonsense. That’s just Troop/Cookbook...
Yeah the slippery feel (vs squeaky) combined with the ammonia odour mean it has become alkaline. The pH of TF-5 should normally be around 6.5 and it should have low odour.
All other things being...
There’s no major reason to use TF-5 over standard rapid fixers such as Kodak, Ilford etc. The advantages of a neutral pH rapid fixer (Ilford and Kodak are mildly acidic) such as TF-5 are longer shelf...
It’s not easy out there. Every time the film price discussion comes up my mind goes to discussions I’ve had with Mark Citret over the years. A top tier artist in B&W photography with a long,...
We need George Tice to stay around. He’s probably one of the few large volume users of 8x10 Kodak film (though it was always TXP unless he has switched now), unless he’s moved away from Kodak now. I...
Digital has changed what I consider to be possible in the darkroom by adding some digital to the mix. I have a lot of ideas for special inkjet dodge/burn masks and it is kind of exciting to me....
Plain white vinegar diluted 1:1 with water makes a working strength stop bath.
Kodak, Ilford and Moersch selenium toners are functionally identical.
Ilford makes sets of contrast filters for...
I know we can do it. Go team.:D
Back to OP’s topic…https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=YWywb9i-z7Y&pp=ygUXcHVzaCBhbmQgcHVsbCBqdWx5IHRhbGs%3D
Didn’t he have that Cadillac by the end?
Nope it’s based on all my years looking at photographs - including on here, where the best stuff is in the non-large format gallery threads. But it’s true short days are my favourite.
Not only that but I still think the vast majority of people will make better photographs with smaller than larger formats.
Who looks at prints in person anymore? That’s 20th century stuff.
If you want to evaluate stain visually it is best to use transmitted light through dense parts of the negative. Remember that stain is proportional to silver density so unless you’re getting a lot of...
Semi-stand is good for the calf muscles, but only if you extreme minimal agitate.
I have to say (I don’t actually have to but anyway) the questions OP posts don’t make much sense. Everyone keeps suggesting starting with some basics but that seems to be continually ignored,...
-Exposure latitude is has no strict/standard definition
-People standardize on different contrast/gradient preferences
-Different developers, agitation methods, temperatures
-Error/slop
Ok but my point was minus development doesn’t increase the amount of information in the negative. It can really only decrease it.
The formula for Kodak HC-110 has changed a number of times since it was introduced in the 1960s.
The most recent iterations, which users have noted are lower in viscosity, appear to be more...
Indeed, no agreement here. Learning to expose film is relatively simple, and most people will make crap prints from the most perfect negative. Often it seems people get the impression these so-called...
This is one of the key sensitometry/tone reproduction errors people make in the Zone System (and other systems).
I thought it might be worth posting that further to the announcement in November 2023 quite a few of the Kodak chemicals are now available:
https://kodak.photosys.com/
Ouch. Boy has this gone off the rails.
Making negatives is relatively trivial. People reading Adams would probably do better starting with The Print.
This isn’t going well. OP doesn’t need any of this “calibration” or grey card hooha.
The two marks on either side look like what can happen with the MOD54 holder so that’s probably the red thing you have. Make sure the emulsion side faces inward. Aside from that, the image overall...
Even something like the old Time Life photo book series is plenty good enough.