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  1. Replies
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    Re: Daylight processing tank for x-ray film

    Anything that touches either side of the film is not a good idea with double-sided x-ray film unless you intend to strip one side of it anyway. So both the Stearman and the 20th Century systems will...
  2. Re: Anyone Made RA-4 Color Prints From Ektar Negatives?

    Sistan isn't going to do much either. It's also designed to bind to silver grains, so it won't work magic on dyes. The best archival treatment for ra4 paper is thorough blixing followed by a decent...
  3. Re: Anyone Made RA-4 Color Prints From Ektar Negatives?

    Proper storage conditions; check the datasheet of your RA paper. Dark, cool storage is best. They should last decades that way.
    Selenium toner isn't going to be beneficial in any way.
  4. Re: Anyone Made RA-4 Color Prints From Ektar Negatives?

    I print from Ektar occasionally. It's not any different from printing other film stocks. Yes of course, color rendition and saturation are specific to Ektar, but each film has its own characteristic....
  5. Re: Is Chrome Alum and Potassium Alum The Same?

    Food grade will be generally potassium alum or otherwise sodium alum. Both should act as a hardener, but you'll need more of it than chrome alum to reach the same degree of hardening, or hardening...
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    Re: Ektachrome 64 Colour Cast

    Did this film come in boxes of 50 sheets with the sheets divided into two packs of 25 each? And if so, am I correct in understanding that you successfully processed the contents of one bag, and are...
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    Re: How do you remove silver nitrate stains?

    It's likely the most valuable concrete slab out there, it being silver plated and all. I'd leave it as it is.
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    Re: Bottle cap liner replacement?

    I find that properly fitting plastic caps on glass bottles are pretty much airtight without an additional liner. Good enough to keep mixed c41 developer good for over 6 months at least.
    Perhaps it...
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    Re: Misadventures in Jobo-land

    Yeah a sulfite bath often clears things up. Good to hear you resolved the issue!
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    Re: Misadventures in Jobo-land

    Definitely looks like antihalation dye. Just wash those negatives again (in a tray) and the stains will likely be gone.

    Ive done 5x7 film in jobo paper drums as well and it works - at least with...
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    Re: Fotospeed Chromium Intensifier

    Wash more when doing the intensifying process, and use a sulfite bath to clear the stain. The latter may work to an extent on your already processed negatives.
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    Re: Fomapan 100, 200 and 400

    Depends a bit, but 100 is a safe compromise for this film in my experience. Whenever shadows aren't critical, I don't hesitate to shoot it at 200. But since I currently only use it in 4x5, which is a...
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    Re: Fixer- sediment layer on bottom?

    I believe I've recently seen more reports of fresh Kodafix concentrate throwing down a precipitate. A very slight sulfur smell is not necessarily problematic. I'd mix some working strength with it,...
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    Re: Film & Developer combo for Salt Prints

    Oh, don't get me wrong; there can be merit in experimenting with the salts. I never noticed improvements over Cl when using Br or I, but I never tested more complex mixes, let alone uncontrolled ones...
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    Re: Film & Developer combo for Salt Prints

    Yeah, and images taken on the seaside should be made using seawater for the salting solution :p

    Seriously - no.
  16. Re: Stearman Press SP-810 Daylight Tray and Pyrocat HD

    Same here, works just fine. The potential drawback is increased oxidation resulting in more general stain, but in practice, this turns out not to be a serious problem.
  17. Re: Stearman Press SP-810 Daylight Tray and Pyrocat HD

    1: 1+1+100 usually, or 1+1+50 occasionally if I need super brutally contrasty negatives
    2: depends on the film and contrast I need!
    3: with tray development, usually 30 seconds initial and then ca...
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    Re: Film & Developer combo for Salt Prints

    I generally use Fomapan (usually 100 or 200) for salted paper prints, developed in either instant mytol (xtol clone) or Pyrocat HD. Rated at box speed and developed twice as long as the charts...
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    Re: Color Crossover?

    Judging color is indeed an art. It takes a bit of an analytical view and an understanding of the basics of color theory, but mostly lots and lots of experience. It also helps to have a 'never...
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    Re: Split grade printing question

    Well, I haven't come across papers that seem to need it; I pront mostly on adox mcc and some fomabrom and fomatone and they seem to achieve dmax with only blue light.
    I suppose it depends on the...
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    Re: Split grade printing question

    >But what is interesting is that some VC papers need a tad of green light to achieve max contrast & full DMax, while certain other papers can do it using blue alone.
    This is interesting. I was...
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    Re: Color Crossover?

    I'll give you some pretty severe examples. As to an explanation: Mick basically gave one when he linked to the Fuji datasheet and the curve sets. Crossover is technically if tracking between the...
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    Re: Arista EDU Ultra 100 vs 200?

    It is not notched backwards. Your middle picture shows the correct orientation.
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    Re: Arista EDU Ultra 100 vs 200?

    It's a linguistic confusion about the word "shiny" :)
    You're doing it right. The "rough" side of fomapan does reflect light, making it shiny, but it's just a little less smooth than the backside.
  25. Re: Use of X-ray film: technical discussion with example images

    How do the 'xray only' films relate to the 'regular xray' films in your experience? Comparable, or slower + higher contrast?
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    Re: Arista EDU Ultra 100 vs 200?

    With Foma films, the emulsion side is the 'rough' side as with all other 'classic' films (as opposed to e.g. TMAX100 which basically has two super smooth/shiny sides...). I always load my film with...
  27. Re: Use of X-ray film: technical discussion with example images

    I checked the datasheet of the foma xray film. It seems to be intended for direct exposure with xrays, not with visible light. The emulsion is likely still sensitive to at least blue light and...
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    Re: Arista EDU Ultra 100 vs 200?

    Having shot a few hundred sheets of Foma 100+200+400, I would say 'barely'. In the 100 version I get the odd (perhaps in 2-5% of the sheets) a single tiny pinhole in the emulsion, i.e. a tiny black...
  29. Re: Use of X-ray film: technical discussion with example images

    Many thanks, Mohmad, for your kind words and for sharing your thoughts. Please allow me to respond on them:


    Yes, I agree. The first developer should ideally contain a silver solvent, or...
  30. Re: Use of X-ray film: technical discussion with example images

    Mohmad, I just did a quick test (I had to wait for my girlfriend to get ready for breakfast...)

    http://www.koraks.nl/galleries/zut/testing/EBRRT20041_EBRAr_01w.jpg
    This is Ektascan B/RA xray...
  31. Re: Use of X-ray film: technical discussion with example images

    I don't think 5x7" xray film is available, but you can get 18x24cm or 8x10" film and cut it down to fit 5x7" holders. Of course there will be some waste.


    That depends on the camera. You may need...
  32. Re: Use of X-ray film: technical discussion with example images

    Haven't tried it I think, but it should work just like with any other film.


    He'll need a reducing back for his camera and appropriate film holders. With a bit of luck, the film will fit in 4x5"...
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    Re: Quarantine -> (mixed) chems

    In glass bottles filled to the rim and tightly capped C41 developer generally lasts at least 6 months, but usually more. Bleach is of no concern to begin with; it lasts more or less indefinitely....
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    Re: Quarantain -> (mixed) chems

    Nope. Properly stored, c41 chemistry stays just fine many months, so not a problem here. Plus, I find I have a little more time now to shoot.

    Lemons --> lemonade.
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    Re: New Bergger Print Film Question?

    The point of the Bergger product, the way I see it, is that due to its slow speed, it is more appropriate for use under an enlarger, as faster materials (e.g. 25-50 ISO ortho film) require very short...
  36. Re: Color print film C-41 kit (mixing question)

    This has been discussed many times, particularly on Photrio. I would suggest doing a search on Google to find some insights.

    In short, both of the options you mention are used by some, but the...
  37. Re: "contamination" between b/w and C41 chemistry?

    I use the same equipment for any process and any kind of solution, so no dedicated tanks or beakers for color/B&W, dev, fix etc. etc. I just rinse everything immediately after use. No problems at all.
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    Re: Mixing Paper dev help needed

    Yeah, that's very odd. I've never seen metol in solution go that color. It goes a pale straw yellow with time in a neutral to slightly acid solution, or brown in an alkaline solution.
    Your...
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    Re: Mixing Paper dev help needed

    Metol does not oxidize that fast in water, not even without any sulfite present. Are you sure it's distilled water and not battery acid you're using? ;)
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    Re: Back to basics - newbie developing help

    OK, center column = good.
    The reels you speak of I'm familiar with. They don't work perfectly for me. With some developers, I get uneven density particularly along the long edges of the film (where...
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