Search:

The water in the Jobo base slightly floats the drum easing the load on the motor, as well as helping to maintain a constant temperature.

Your friend is doing you a favor. and he is correct!

These processes were in their prime before Panchromatic films were in theirs. Orthochromatic films were used for a great number of these and other alternative process methods. I still have an ortho...

ISO speeds are determined by the manufacturer according to the standards set. The normal course is to use film straight off the production line in a higher potency developer than is generally...

If you decide to use ortho-litho films, don't use paper developers which will increase the contrast range to essentially unusable.

I have been making salt prints for about 25 years. They do not require a "dense" negative. They require a negative with a very long scale, which means the highlights require significantly more...

I have only had a darkroom since about 1938 and have used many systems, but not the Stearman. I am perfectly satisfied with several of the systems I currently have available.

That's good to know, about the Glycin that is.

Each of these could be causing your problem. Together, there is no doubt in my mind they are the cause. You need to work at preventing all of them.

At the high cost of film these days it is difficult for me to understand why people continue to use a somewhat questionable container, and unproven developers.

A very interesting tonal scale for a beautiful portrait.

I never use the Jobo with 510 Pyro. In my mind, it works better in a tray. If you want to try a pyro based developer in a Jobo, look at Pyrocat HD or one of its derivatives.

My pre-1939 5x7 is still going strong. It s lighter in weight because it has no aluminum plate on the bottom. Original bellows still supple and no holes. The wood shows use but causes no problems. I...

It is interesting that no one so far has mentioned PRINTS!
After all, they are usually our goal. No matter how your negatives look, make prints and see what pleases you.

I don't know what you mean by "quite a bit", but most people I know use it at 1:3. Since I develop everything by inspection, i can't suggest times.

Exposure with electronic flash depends on the unit. They put out different amounts of blue and UV which are important to the x-ray film. I wonder if adding a blue gel would help decrease the amount...

I haven't been able to find mu LC-2 formula. I had a computer crash since I was using it.
Here are a few you may wish to try.
The simplest for most is probably HC110 1:100. And don't forget D-23...

Another dear friend gone. RIP Dick.

Hidden somewhere on the web is the recipe and instructions for LC-2 a designed Low Contrast developer. I began using it years ago when exposing lith film in camera. It's a marvelous recipe.
Also-...

I doubtseriouslyif they will work. I know the FS holders for my friends 7x17 will not work in my Korona. They have nor ridge for the light trap.

Sadly I am unable to get linked to the images by Tedd or Jay. I can open the web sites, but not those images.

Neat idea!

Who among us doesn't want you to post these?

There is no way to know which unknown "expert" did what research before posting on Wikipedia. I don't believe any posting there unless by a known expert whom I trust to have done proper research.

I would begin with flashing since if done properly it will have essentially no effect on the shadow and mid densities.

Reciprocity factors do seem to continue. When Ray McSavaney made his beautiful images in the abandoned Royal Tire factory with no light other than the small amount sneaking through the small high...

I doubt seriously if it is still being made. I remember them from many years, maybe 40-50, ago.

a tray is superior to a Stearman for film development. Another choice is a round tank, Jobo or otherwise.

All you need is some standard (modern) film holders. I bought my wife one of these cameras several years ago and the holders worked perfectly. They should have a ridge, not a groove, for the light...

I have never had this problem with wooden holders, but frequently with plastic ones.
The only good solution I know is to 1st - use a large enough dark cloth. Mine for 8x10 is 5x7 feet. Then always...

Thanks for the video. Good looking camera. I suggest you carry through with a much larger dark cloth. Mine for 7x17 is 5x8 feet. You may need one 6x8 or 7x10 for really good coverage. Another...

Have you tried a Schneider Angulon, not Super? Small, low cost and sharp enough for me.

Agitaton appears too vigorous. Lift and dip more gently.

Weegee, and other freelance and news photographers of his time simplified things.
The lens was set at a preferred aperture. The camera was focused at the hyperfocal distance, or a preferred shorter...

I assume you keep the dark cloth over the camera as you insert and remove the holder, and that your dark cloth is large enough. for 4x5 I prefer one 4ft x5 ft. Anything smaller has always proven...

At the college we used D-23 which was replenished after each set of film. The developer was changed only at the beginning of each semester.

The Weston Meter is what AA based the Zone System on. Zone III, V and VIII are indicated on the dial.

When I got my first 4x5, in 1938, it was considered Medium Format. Time brings changes to most things.

If you belong to AAA, get a Camping Guide for Western States

1- 2.25x3.25
3 - 4x5
2 - 5x7
1 - 8x10
1 - 5x12
1 - 7x17
The only one I don't use, or do so rarely is the 2x3