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Not exactly what you're planning on or even the same size negative, but I used the 305 G-Claron for years enlarging 8x10 negatives. Any faults in the prints were due to other weaknesses in the chain,...

Assuming the Gitzo has a standard 3/8" mounting bolt for the head, the Ries head should be fine.

Great video! Even though I shoot a lot of 8x10, I can't even begin to imagine dealing with this size film!

Yes, I asked about that very lens in my original post hoping to get some feedback specifically about it as well as other suggestions.

Thank you.

I know exactly what you mean, John. I've owned and used the 120mm SA for 40 years and it's a favorite! This lens is a "pry from my dead hands" type thing for sure.

My typical subjects are general landscape and outdoor scenes. I've shot LF for 40+ years and try to be very careful with technique. My Fuji 125mm is the older single coated lens with inside lettering.

I have a 90mm Schneider Angulon that I've used occasionally on 4x5, but the corners are pretty soft. If it was just a bit of the corners it wouldn't bother me, but the soft area cuts a pretty wide...

I currently own a Fuji W 125/5.6 and a Schneider Super Angulon 120/8 and I'm looking for a 120mm lens that's sharper than the Fuji and smaller/lighter than the Super Angulon. I'm not saying that the...

Somebody already mentioned the Schneider Symmar-S 360mm. Its a big 'un with a front element the size of a small dinner plate, but it's a great lens. I've used it on my 8x10 for 40+ years and I'm...

I don't use gels behind the lens anymore, but back when I did, I made a simple Z thingy out of some sheet steel with a depth slightly more than the rear lens element, glued it to the back of the lens...

I wondered about with my new Titan 4x5...great fun! I've owned a 120 pinhole for years, but this is my first LF pinhole.

@newtorf, Not to steal the words of John Sexton, but I love the quiet light in your Oak Tree image.

I'm one of the folks who have removed the number wheel. Many times, I tend to compose fairly tightly to the edge and I found I needed an unfavorable crop to remove the number. It was no problem when...

Try it both ways. I do pre-wash my film and I still reduce development time by about 10 - 15%.

Unless the MDC development time specially notes that it's a rotary time, then I usually drop about 15% off as a starting point. I know others who stick with the inversion time. Testing will tell the...

I've used quite a bit of Shanghai 120 and really like the results in undiluted D-23. I'm planning on ordering some 220 for use in my Pentax 67II.

Most of my Schneider and Fuji LF lenses are "infected" with the "-itis." Never worried about it as I've never noticed it affecting image quality. If shooting B&W, you could simply develop the film a...

I tear them in half and toss 'em. I have too many prints in storage now! ;)

Like Fred L, I mix large quantities of chemistry in paint buckets using a paddle-style stirrer in a drill. Once mixed, it goes into either 2 or 5 gal containers with floating lids.

Assuming that no sharpening was applied during scanning, on my monitor and to my old eyes your results look exactly like what I'd expect from a flatbed scan. And, honestly I don't see much difference...

Am I understanding correctly that the fresnel is between the gg and the lens? I was taught that a fresnel should be behind the normal gg because the fresnel has a focal length which can introduce...

I would also add that Fuji lens markings can be incorrect. For example, I have a sample of the SW 90mm that my research leads me to believe it's actually an NSW. Therefore, things can get somewhat...

Based on the way I work, I'd suggest increasing development time by about 25%, depending on the film. If you're using TMax stock, that much increase may not be necessary. When I get a reading such as...

The point of zeroing out the densitometer on a clear area of developed film is to remove the base + fog density. And, by definition, a clear piece of developed film is Zone 0.

IanB,

Yes, I would recommend to zero out your densitometer on a piece of developed Zone 0 film before reading for either Zone I or Zone VIII. I use an entire frame or sheet, processed as I...

Personally, I would consider 16GB of memory to be barely adequate for most photographers working today; especially with the higher megapixel sensors and certainly for any LF photographer...

I still shoot dry plates and would still be shooting Kodak Super-XX if it was still available. But then, me and dirt have a lot in common! ;)

Whatever you buy, I'd recommend at least 32GB memory (64GB if you can afford it) and a higher-end graphics card, again with as much memory on it as you can afford. A lot of software relies heavily on...

I don't sell my prints, but I much prefer the aesthetic look of air-dried glossy fiber paper over any RC surface.

One issue I ran into when testing LED bulbs for contact printing is that they don't power on / off instantly. Certainly could have been the bulbs I tried, but it's something you might want to pay...

Yep, but the downside is that you need brighter illumination. I use a 250 watt flood about 4 feet above my work table.

The simplest way is to lay a sheet of glass over the neg/paper sandwich and expose using a hanging light fixture. If you search a bit on YouTube, I'm sure you'll find videos covering contact printing.

If it's Arista.EDU we're talking about, the notch code tells me it's Foma. Don't know who makes their Ortho Lith film.

For color (not that I do much of that), I scan and post-process / print on the desktop. For B&W, I do both scan/print and print in a darkroom. Personally, I don't see anything wrong with either...

I've been running an NEC MultiSync PA241W (24 inch) for years and I've been very happy with it. One major aspect that I like about these monitors is their built-in hardware calibration which IMO is...

I totally agree with everything Sal said about the Pro-100! All my final prints are on the Hahnemuhle paper mentioned and IMO they are very nice. I've never run a single sheet of matte paper through...

Amen! Not that I own an Epson LF printer nowadays, but I do have an R2880 that I've owned for many years. Several years ago I did have a 3880, but that died a horrible death after only about 3 years....

Wonderful interview and lovely images! To my mind, your images always hint at subtle compelling stories and, for the most part, I generally feel a quiet inner peace when viewing them. Not saying...

That looks exactly like the one Keith Canham sells.

Since 8x10 has been my favorite format since the early '80's, at nearly 70 I parred down my camera outfit. Back in the day, I lugged my 8x10 Deardorff, Schneider 360/6.8 Symmar-S, Schneider 480/11...