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  1. Replies
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    Re: Developed Negatives - GreenCast

    Just to be sure - the negative wasn't inadvertently exposed to red light, was it?
    How does the negative look?
    Who scanned it and how?
  2. Re: Use of X-ray film: technical discussion with example images

    Plastic storage boxes are both cheaper and less heavy. I use them for practically all my paper and sheet film development when using trays.
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    Re: nuarc xeon printer, front shield?

    Yes, I'd make sure there is ventilation as that unit likely generates a lot of heat. A plywood contraption can work very well, but I'd consider integrating a fan in it so the heat is taken out of the...
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    Re: Tiny Black Specs on Arista EDU Ultra 100

    There are some posts about similar issues on photrio with this film. But this was in 120 format, not sheet film. In sheet film I've had the occasional blank spot (rendering black in print), but...
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    Re: LED enlarger head design

    The problem is really in the economics. If I factor in the time I spent on what is essentially R&D, the Heiland solution is actually rather cheap unless I manage to produce maybe hundreds of units...
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    Re: what went wrong -- LIGHT LEAK !

    Looking at the rebate on the left side which is much wider than it should be, it might be a problem of loading the film wrong, perhaps sliding it into the slot of the dark slide instead of flush with...
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    Re: Clayton P20 Plus paper developer

    Two boxes of paper going bad at the same time and apparently quite suddenly & severely sounds like too much of a coincidence to be honest. I suspect there's something more going on and some further...
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    Re: LED enlarger head design

    Yeah, I did something similar about a year ago. Not just for B&W, but also for color, but then again only for up to 4x5 instead of 8x10....
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    Re: Clayton P20 Plus paper developer

    1: Fresh paper?
    2: Paper stored under proper conditions, away from heat sources or chemical foggants etc?
    3: Have you performed a safelight safety test?
    Sounds like the paper is fogged, to be...
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    Re: Is this Bromide Drag? Help!

    What Paul says - give up stand. Do semi-stand if you have to, but to be brutally honest, there's absolutely nothing wrong with old fashioned agitation. A few inversions per minute and Bob's your...
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    Re: Is this Bromide Drag? Help!

    The pattern will line up with the clamps of the mod54. Again, I've had exactly the same issue a few years ago. There's no doubt about the cause. Stand development, at least with rodinal or pyrocat,...
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    Re: Is this Bromide Drag? Help!

    There's your problem.
    This is NOT A LIGHT LEAK as quine and popdoc suggested. When I started out with 4x5 I also used a Mod54 and tried stand development with rodinal, with exactly the same...
  13. Re: film holders vs film hangers vs film carriers vs ... ?

    For 35mm: I was corrected by someone on APUG/Photrio on my haphazard use of canisters vs. cassettes. The canister, as he told me, is the (usually plastic) box that the cassette (the metal one with...
  14. Re: Photographing Darkroom Prints To Be Shown Online

    I've had good results with two soft boxes at 45 degree angles on both sides of the print and the camera perpendicular to it. Perspective correction is annoying; get it right in the shot, saves a lot...
  15. Re: Film curves and density range in reversal development

    In reversal processing, you can certainly influence first development, fogging and second development to alter the film curve. One obvious application is to have the choice between making high vs low...
  16. Re: Making separation negatives from color positive sheet film

    Ideally you'd use a film with good linearity from toe to shoulder. But in principle any panchromatic film should work.
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    Re: C-41 Recommendations?

    As far as I can tell all C41 chemistry options should work well. Personally I use Fuji Hunt minilab chemistry, but in the US Kodak is easier to get and it's the benchmark. There's a big thread...
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    Re: Selenium Toner for Archivability

    Toning for longevity only makes sense when toning is taken to completion. Good news though- a properly processed and untoned print has a really long lifetime. You won't see them fade and likely your...
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    Re: old Kodak chemistry

    Doesn't look very worrying to me, because it seems to be the spot where the bags are punched to slide them onto sales stands. Likely during the packaging operations some powder ends up between the...
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    Re: Toning Van Dyke brown prints with thiourea

    I may do a new one some day, but as it is, not enough time and already a backlog of things I want to do :)
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    Re: how to cut film in the dark?

    For this kind of stuff I use a rotary cutter. Mine (a Dahle) happens to have a metal construction on which magnetic strips can easily be stuck. Just position a strip as a stop, slide in film, cut,...
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    Re: Toning Van Dyke brown prints with thiourea

    I'm sorry, but I don't think I still have the print in question. At least not where I can easily find it, and most likely I tossed it.
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    Re: RA=4 Reversal Processing

    Yes, Ron Mowrey used to do that when he was still among us, there's one or two threads about it on photrio.
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    Re: Toning Van Dyke brown prints with thiourea

    I'm afraid I haven't; in terms of toning alt. process prints, I stick to gold toning these days. I haven't done much additional work on sepia or selenium toning. Also, I have moved largely away from...
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    Re: Spots like a dark sun - Rollei RXP 25

    My bet wouldbe on either tiny water drops on the film during storage or in the camera, or small flecks of a chemical that found their way onto the film surface. Water seems a bit more likely. But...
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    Re: Development failure

    I find the actual defect hard to see in the picture. I mean, I see some vague dark flecks, but I have the impression that they're quite distorted by a mediocre scan and high jpeg compression, making...
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    Re: Diffusion v Condenser v LED

    The visible difference in your prints will be extremely difficult to see, if it's there in the first place.
    If you prefer the level of automation and ease of use (although seeing the Heiland in...
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    Re: Long life opened liquid paper developer

    Decant into smaller glass bottles, Bob's your uncle!
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    Re: Taking a class and now totally baffled

    I'm with Philip/Ulophot on this. I'd also consider using a film that easily builds contrast, so not necessarily any 400 speed film. FP4+ or, heck, even fomapan 100 or 200. Place Caucasian skin tones...
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    Re: Pyrocat HD Stain & Base Fog

    There's always some background stain in my negatives, but the density thereof depends on the film used and development time & dilution. I don't find it objectionable in any case so I never spent much...
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    Re: RA=4 Reversal Processing

    You might want to try using a black piece of processed C41 film as a base filter and then add yellow + magenta filters to get closer to where you want to be. The RA4 paper curves are obviously...
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    Re: RA=4 Reversal Processing

    Yep, that looks pretty similar to the results I got when I tried it. I messed around a bit with all sorts of filters but never got something to my liking, so left it at a single quick & dirty...
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    Re: Tetenal Colortec C-41 Developing Kit

    This one looks OK (maybe overall a bit yellow, but I see no very apparent crossover).



    But here you seem to have some very serious magenta/green crossover issues. It might be due to the scan,...
  34. Re: Kodak Alaris sells of paper and chemical businesses

    I'd be happy already if there is a future for Endura color paper. Much more critical than the B&W situation; for B&W, we have several viable options. For color, there's just two, and lately it's...
  35. Re: Scratch on negative, how to remove defect from print?

    Curse, weep, and make sure it doesn't happen with the next negative.
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    Re: Uva alt print box

    This makes sense particularly for units that emit a broad spectrum of (UV) light such as old-fashioned gas discharge bulb plate burners. However, for UV-A tubes and leds, the safety issues are of...
  37. Thread: old film

    by koraks
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    Re: old film

    Depends a bit on what film and paper it is. I assume for the film it's B&W. You mention Ilford, which makes either FP4 or HP5 the most likely candidates. Not sure if the + variants already existed...
  38. Re: C41 Accidentally added too much water to the Blix mixing

    It'll likely work OK, but it will be slightly slower and have slightly less capacity. So perhaps use a bit more margin with Blix times and number of rolls/sheets processed. I wouldn't sweat it though.
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    Re: New to me printing issue

    This. If you're sure focus was right on in one place, check the alignment of your enlarger.
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    Re: Color contact printing

    90 seconds for final prints, but for test strips often only 20-30 seconds.
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