UV coating doesn’t matter. Several folks have done extensive testing. You won’t notice a difference that’s any greater than other plate-to-plate variables.
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UV coating doesn’t matter. Several folks have done extensive testing. You won’t notice a difference that’s any greater than other plate-to-plate variables.
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Hot glue is reversible, at least. If it were me, I’d 3D print a spacer that allowed for a nice friction fit to the lens barrel/helicoid thread. But takes a bit of fiddling and a printer to...
Be aware you’ll have to adjust focus for wetplate. The bit of remaining chromatic aberration of the Verito plus the very orthochromatic chemistry means the blue/UV is a bit behind of the greenish...
For plexiglass, I really love the brightness and detail I get when lightly sandblasted. Takes about 45 seconds to do an 8x10 sheet nicely. The garnet grit in the blaster had been used a bit, and kept...
Too big/heavy/long…. or poisoned with radioactive elements? Haha.
Or a bit of both like my f2.5 12” Aero Ektar in working Fairchild shutter. It’s 25 lbs…. and a chunk of that is thorium.
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Where are you located? In many parts of the world, it’s cheapest to be patient and get a decent 4x5 setup that’s already together.
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Hell yeah, I’m working in something similar for another Lomograflok application. Glad to see the ingenuity here!
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Nice, looks like you could raise the nozzle a bit more to get rid of the bit of wave pattern on the bottom, but that’s just cosmetic and on the inside so the board will do well.
Always little...
I print a lot of boards. I tested about 30+ filaments over the years (out of curiosity) using a densitometer. Any black ABS is usually the most opaque. Black PLA is often decent but warps in summer...
In that case, PETG printed hot and slow is your best bet. Each layer should melt the bottom layer a good bit so the bonding is really good. The surface might not be as beautiful, but it will be as...
First off, people can always just use trays for sensitizing. A tray with a bigger tray over it is light tight.
It’s possible to print a tank, going slow with PETG or ABS can get good watertight...
Writing, yes.
I need to pull mine apart to get a flange made (so I can ship it), so you’re giving me the motivation to go do it. I’ll check my middle element alignment later tonight too. Thanks!...
Overall, it was pretty easy to clean in the end as long as the threads are all clean enough to unscrew.
Like this, Steven’s SN must have ended in 45, and mine had that number written in pencil on the glass elements toohttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210612/6c45f4a125c65af5fbfa599d76e97be5.jpg
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Yes, take off aperture ring and the black sheath part will slide off toward the front. I see you already have the nubs off. Keep track of how the middle element is oriented. It may be symmetrical or...
It all depends on the silver halides. AgI, AgBr, and AgCl are the 3 to pick from each with a different peak frequency, then different spectral sensitizers extend the visible range into the visible...
You just need to fill the camera with alcohol and ether vapors so the plate doesn’t dry out...what’s the worst that can happen?
But like Garrett said, it’s not really a plausible pursuit. And...
You might want to try shooting paper negatives to get a feel for how something slow and orthochromatic “sees” the scenes before committing to plates. Then you can see if it’s feasible. If you need a...
Not a lot of actinic light available at night. At f4 on TXP320 by full moon, I need maybe 5-10 minutes at f4 so f8 on tintype seems hopeless, though the reciprocity failure might not be as bad (not...
I’ve been using Print File paper envelopes. Not sure if some of the plastic holders have enough space for the thicker glass. They’re pretty tight on sheet film already.
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I PMd you for details. Thanks Scott.
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Just joining this chain since I live in the area and wish to follow updates.
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With that beard, there’s too much air drag to run anywhere in a hurry! Best suited to stationary gandering and pondering.
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That head brace went for big bucks since it was original from the 1860’s, Rob Gibson was the seller and he’s a well known and reputable fella/wetplater/re-enactor. I saw people calling that “a good...
That was not bad at all. In and out in under an hour with some extensive cleaning (mechanisms moved, just needed to clean some crud on each element). Thanks so much Steven.
This is incredibly helpful. I need to clean some internal grime from a pre-Universal and now have the confidence to do so without great trepidation.