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That's an ingenious solution to low cost camera/development. Thanks for sharing.

Simple answer to these problems - Don't be a martyr- change chemistry. There are too many good ones available to waste time, money and film on questionable ones.

When I was young chromium intensifier was common. As soon as I knew enough about chemistry to realize it's dangers, I stopped using it. There are other safer methods which also do not amplify grain.

No moisture or wipes ever touch my lenses, certainly not the sandpaper sold as "Lens Tissue.". I use activated charcoal on a Q-Tip.. Dip the Q-tip in the activated charcoal, knock-off excess, use...

That information is for a Jobo processor.
I use both a Jobo and a smaller base like the one you have.
It is very easy to get carried away with minute details when processing. Simplify the process,...

Yesterday I Googled WD2H+ and the first site up was a PDF of the 3rd edition of the cookbook. I have no idea where it came from.
When I am in real need of HL density, I tone the negative in Sepia....

Looks like light leaks to me.

Both are fiber papers. F-2 is Glossy and G-2 is textured (I don't remember the correct term).
I used F-2 for 20+ years, and only went to G-2 after my college years. When I worked in a store in high...

Since I lost money due to P---al many years ago, I only use USPS money orders, whether buying or selling.

I have 2 Baco heads on Otto tripods, love both. I had a Ries with their pan-tilt head and hated it for many reasons including weight, and that damn rod sticking out the rear.

I have every book which has been mentioned. None of them are as straight forward, thus helpful as Mortenson "On the Negative" and "Projection Control."

The total quantity of developer is not the point, it is the amount of developer concentrate which is important, regardless of dilution.

I agree with Corran.

Too many additives here. If you want to develop in coffee just use what has been sitting around in the pot for a few hours. I tried it - it works.

In other words, copyrights are useless, as they have been for years, unless the offender wants them to be.

I have several lenses with maximum apertures of f-9 -f-18. They require a little more time under the dark cloth, but I can still organize the picture and focus in rather low light on plain ground...

Merry Christmas to you Emil. [I]'m certain everyone is happy to see the images you are finishing.
Hopefully 2021 will see all of us have a better year.
Jim

If your filters were each optically flat, and absolutely clean, they should make no difference in focus. BUT unless you paid a rather high amount for each filter i doubt that any of them were...

I went to 5x12 Korona when I got too old and weak to handle the 7x17 Korona easily. I have 7 holders 3 original for film, and 3 new ones from Sandy. The 7th is a Korona for dry plates. I like the...

I can't believe you have that beautiful camera on top of that tall column! Or do you like vibration in your images?

Texture is produced by the lighting, not the camera.

It appears to be a self-cocking, mechanical shutter.

I use D-19 when I need to add contrast to a very flat subject.

I have some Zone VI fixer over 30 years old. I use it all the time and will continue to do so until the supply is gone.

More good reasons to stop making deals over that site. Haven't done so in years.

Beautiful girl - Beautiful portrait!

5x7 Deardorff and 10 3/4" Dagor. Always packed and ready to go. This has been my standby since about 1960.

I fully agree with Vaughn's approach

Emil, it is good to see that you haven't given up under what must be extremely difficult circumstances.
Good luck,
Jim

Other than the times i have aimed my 8x10 almost straight down, I have never had a problem with 8x10, 5x12 or 7x17. Why? I don't know, probably just dumb luck.

I have a 165 Angulon (not super), and a 159 Wolly. My preference is the Wolly because the Angulon is too sharp for my current tastes.

I totally agree.

How do you know they are Petzvals? Is it the sellersword?

My thoughts and prayers are with you. I wish you only the best of outcomes.

I assume you need cataract surgery. If you have a good surgeon, it's a piece of cake. I had both of mine done several years ago.
If anything else, I would get a 2nd opinion.
Good luck!
Jim

If the shutter will unscrew from the ring, remove it so you can attack the ring from front and back.

I only have editions 1 and 2, so I don't know.

I have a 3063 and haven't been able to find a pair of ribs to hold the 5x12 satisfactorily.
I am looking for a non-reversing roller base to use with the 3005. Currently I am using the Jobo manual...

The systems are almost foolproof to install. Little or no danger of escaping gas. Only tool not found in most toolboxes is a 3'" hole saw. Be sure to get a tungsten carbide tipped one.

Check your PM's.

That is likely the same toner, but if this is an 8x10 print, 25 ml is sufficient. 35-40ml should do an 11x14.