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In my experience, farm cats are straightup gangsters ...

Or d-CON 76

Clearly, there is nothing more disconcerting than a floppy tranny ...

I am very sorry about your misfortune and hope you are getting great advice here. But, I have to say, this is the greatest thread title I've ever seen.

I've processed a fair bit of Foma 200 and fixed with TF-4 for 5-6min. I wash for 25min in running water and have never had residual pink coloration.

Assuming your fixer is new and properly mixed...

Ouch. I've got a 19" APO Artar in a modern Copal that Grimes did for me I'll sell you for an outrageous sum ;)

If you want to really rock 35mm and 120 grain, develop in D-23 1+9, add 0.5g/l of lye (sodium hydroxide) and semistand develop it for an hour ...

Here's 35mm done that way. Scan of silver print:...

Before I apply poly, I typically wipe the wood down with a damp cloth and let it dry. This causes it to burr up. You can then sand it with 220 or 300 grit, and THEN apply the poly - which you can...

My 4x5 bag has camera, bag bellows, 5 lenses, a light meter, accessories, and 10-15 preloaded holders ready to go at any given time.

https://www.tundraware.com/Photography/Gallery/Silver/media/large/20240113-1-24-Snow_Glade.jpg

I find that looking at other's people's stuff gives me ideas of what I might want to do.

Several books that always bring me back to Paris are:

"Le Notre's Gardens" by Michael Kenna

Atget...

Reading down thread, I notice your concern is lens speed moreso that "average" optics.

A bit shorter than you like, but you might consider a Zeiss Jena 135mm f/4.5 or a Kodak Ektar 127mm f/4.7. ...

Can I second that?

After only a few months, switching film and/or developer is ill advised. While you may have the mechanics of development dialed in, there is likely still work to do to determine your "personal ASA"...

My 150mm f/5.6 APO Symmar is one of my most frequently used 4x5 lenses along with my 210mm f/6.3 Caltar-II (Rodenstock).

Maaaaaaam, MAAAAAAAM, Mark's teasing me ...

In the 1990s, I bought new Schneiders and Rodenstock/Caltars. I also got a couple of Artars in various flavors and had Grimes put them in shutters.

In the past few years, I've built out my lenses...

But you live in Kali, what's "cold" there .... 68F? ;)

I have several Luna-Pros, some which I have worked on/recalibrated for modern batteries.

I also have the spot accessory. The meters themselves are great for what they are, but the spot metering...

I too very much like PMK, but because of its aerial oxidation rate, I cannot do high dilution, long duration, low agitation development with it.

For some things, though, PMK is great. The edge...

It's not remotely illegal, at least in the US. Junkies are not a protected class.

I wonder what the cost operating that is compared to buying distilled water at $1.05/gal? I've looked into distilling my own water but the $3000 initial cost plus electricity to operate it, kind of...

I have whole house water filtration installed but even that showed significant variability in developer action over the course of a year, at least when the home was first new. So, I use distilled to...

Which "Pyro" did you buy? Times will vary by exact developer you selected.

Just remember to wear eye and skin protection when working with pyro. Nitrile gloves, not latex as latex is porous.

Yet another argument for D-23 or Pyrocat-HD both of which are dirt cheap to make.

Moreover, they seem to last "forever". I mix my Pyrocat 500ml at a time and make Part A in glycol and store in...

I know this isn't a direct response to your question but, it may be helpful ...

I used HC-110 for years almost exclusively. Then I "discovered" Pyrocat-HD and D-23 and never looked back. I have...

I still think you should read my notes and give semistand/EMA another go ;)

On the internet, everyone is an expert. When people make claims, I just ask them "can we see your images done <that way> please?"

So first, let me say unequivocally that high dilution/low agitation development is not some magick that guarantees best outcomes for every single situation. it is an arrow in the quiver of the...

That's why I wrote my findings up in some detail - to help the "uninitiated". The 4 findings I mentioned above pretty much ensure there will not be any bromide drag except in the rarest of...

A fair bit of what I documented in the notes I cited in Post #9 deals with how to avoid drag. It comes down to several things:

1) Use film hangers or reels that minimize contact with the film
...

Correct - 3-4 agitations in the hour period should suffice. If lye is required, it should be mixed in as part of the initial dilution process. It may not be needed with D-76, I've never tried it.
...

Lab apron

Eye protection

N95 masks

Nitrile gloves

Good ventilation

I haven't done this with D-76 but I have done it with D-23, DK-50, and Pyrocat-HD ("it" - long, high dilution semistand development).

Presumably you want to do this to get improved sharpness and...

Thanks. Really nice find. Although in color, his work puts me in mind of Vivian Meier.

I have tested literally dozens of leaf shutters using a simple digital timer. This isn't a perfect measurement because the speed at the edges of a larger shutter is faster than in the center (the...

I have Schneiders relatively old and new. The are all terrific lenses. The larger problem is shutter accuracy with age. This can be fixed with a good CLA.

Of course, "at a certain point". But, within reason, all fog does is reduce contrast and require somewhat more exposure under and enlarger. Here are a couple shots of SuperXX that went out of date...

It may not. But fog - up to a point - mostly just reduces contrast somewhat and can be printed through and corrected with VC or digital techniques. Severely fogged films cannot be rescued.

I...

Well, sure, there are developers more likely to give you more- or less acutance, but even so, you can modify this by how you use them. I suppose making Rodinal less sharp would be tough without some...