I painted the area behind the lens board on my 8x10 Mk1 with a flat black craft paint. On my 8x10 Mk2, I painted the same area with india ink. My guess is that anything inside the camera is up for...
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I painted the area behind the lens board on my 8x10 Mk1 with a flat black craft paint. On my 8x10 Mk2, I painted the same area with india ink. My guess is that anything inside the camera is up for...
In my experience, contact prints just seem to sort themselves out. IMO, burning is easier than dodging so I try to avoid the latter. I'll begin with a lighter print which effectively gives me a...
Yes, I know. But, didn't the OP say he was located in Pakistan?
Thanks for posting this link! Watching him brings back many memories of attending his workshop in 1979 and visiting him over many subsequent years.
I use a Gralab 450 with my Focomat V35 and a very old EPOI PrintRol with my Beseler 4x5. The LF enlarger has an Aristo VCL4500 cold light head on it so choice of an electronic timer is a...
Sounds like you have it pretty much worked out already. Nothing wrong with D-76 or D-23 for film development; I use 'em all the time! Paper developers, like D-72, can be easily mixed from raw...
Unfortunately, not much to pick from nowadays. I like Ilford Galerie for enlargements (Fomabrom isn't bad, either) and Adox Lupex for contact prints.
Size of print seems to be directly related to what size film I'm printing: 5x7 for 35mm, up to 10x13 for MF and 4x5, contact prints for 8x10. But, overall, I rarely print beyond about 8x10.
FWIW, I have three LF field cameras that are flat on the bottom and I've never had a problem turning the knob on my RRS BH-55 ball head. Could be different with other AS clamps, of course.
I know nothing much about the Arca Cube head, but with regard to quick releases I've found that the lever lock type seem to work best with plate from the same manufacturer. For instance, a RRS level...
Tipping a stainless steel type tank will certainly help in the pouring, but it just takes a certain amount of time to get a large quantity of liquid into the tank. The best way I found to handle...
I've already backed this project, but I was glad to read in this morning's project update e-mail about all the practical changes Matt is already making for the final production unit. He sure seems to...
I, too, would be concerned about fill/drain time and, in my experience, I've found I generally get better more even development in smaller tanks vs large.
Welcome to the forums!
There are many choices available for a "real" dark cloth; many use their jacket, shirt, etc. I have a few commercial ones that I bought over the years, but some years ago I...
All my lenses are stored either in specific lens cases or in backpack compartments, depending on the bag used for any particular setup. Each has lens caps on front & back, shutter closed, shutter...
I've only used it at 1:1; excellent developer! And, easy to mix yourself as stated above.
@jonesp, absolutely lovely!
Not ic-racer, but... That is Matt's first meter, whereas the current Kickstarter campaign his for his new spot meter. The little "sugar cube" meter is a reflective type meter that reads about a 30...
It's my understanding that the new spot meter manual will have enough of an explanation of P.M.M. that you'll be able to use it, if so desired. I doubt that you'd find anyone willing to reveal full...
In a perfect world, yes! My iPhone, for example, does things that drives me absolutely bonkers and I'm left wondering why (after having been a software developer most of my adult life) it was...
Got one of those old guys right down the street from me (wait...I'm an old guy, too!) Anyway, he has an entire garage wall with hundreds of small bins just filled with all sorts of screws, trinkets,...
I'm currently using Matt's teeny "sugar cube" meter with my MF folders and the whole stop readout isn't an issue for me. When I take a reading I watch the EV value displayed just prior to the...
Yeah, I love McMaster, but they don't have any as small as what I need. Thanks!
Intermediate ISO's can easily be derived by +/- exposure compensation. For your EI 32 FP4+ example, set the ISO on the meter to 25, then dial in -0.03 exposure compensation.
If you have a few #0 wood screws that are 1/4" long, please start a PM with me and we'll work something out. Thanks!
I use the darkslide, hand, hat, whatever to shade the lens. The compendium units are certainly more efficient at shielding the lens, but once you start employing movements proper setting of the lens...
You don't have to use Nick's P.M.M. metering system. It also does averaging readings or you could use it as a plain 'ole spot meter. I read in the Kickstarter comments that Matt is looking into...
Thanks, again, to all. I'm looking into each suggestion.
Signup, and then back the project. You're charged the pledge amount on the day the campaign closes (March 10 for the Reveni Spot meter), if it's fully funded (reached its goal.) The Reveni Spot meter...
Man, you all are quick with the info! Thank you.
@Bob Salomon - I found that site a couple of days ago, but they were out of stock at the time. Looks like they have a supply now. Thanks!
@domaz...
Does anyone have a source for #0 wood screws? The ones used for the clips holding down a ground glass?
Thanks!
I shoot iPhone, SX-70, 35mm, 6x4.5, 6x6, 6x7, 6x9, 4x5, and 8x10. Don't use all formats all the time...just quite a bit of hardware collected over nearly 50 years of photography. I enjoy each format...
FWIW, it comes with a case and lanyard. I backed it on Kickstarter and I'm looking forward to playing around with it. Personally, if I can shave even a few ounces off my 8x10 outfit when packing far...
Have you looked into luminosity masking?
I wouldn't worry about the future of 8x10 film. IMO, it will be around for a long time to come. And, as others have said you have other options, too, plus you could coat your own glass plates and/or...
I use Nightfox 119V. They are 1x and are comfortable to wear for any normal length of time developing film. However, it looks like this unit may not be made any longer so you would have to buy used.
There is a chart somewhere on Jason's website that shows estimated ISO for various months of the year, etc. Out here in the desert southwest, I lean toward ASA 2 during summer months and in the...
I've done a couple on grade 2 (older emulsion batch) with Lodima. Looks fine, but it wasn't TMax 400 that I used.
Unlike Richard, I've never had any issue with oxidation on my Jobo with Expert...
I tried Pyrocat-M, once, many years ago and don't remember why I stopped using it. However, I use a lot of Pyrocat-HD and have never seen negs that I'd call "thin" nor ever had any issues with...
Like Conrad, I don't care for ball heads for large, heavy cameras. I get along fine with a Gitzo G-1570M for my 8x10 Deardorff, but it's not geared.