"Patina" is everything!
Type: Posts; User: paulbarden; Keyword(s):
"Patina" is everything!
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51102092114_743351f17c_b.jpg
5x7 inch dry plate glass negative. This was a home-made dry plate negative, using the Foma Photo Emulsion.
Welcome, Ed!
I love my f4.5 Ektar. Its beautiful even wide open.
I have the 12” f4.5 Ektar and I love it. It can be exquisitely soft if I want it to be, or sharp as a knife (but never harsh contrast).
Can we see which versions of the Compur you have?
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51044927276_2dd9f31cdb_b.jpg
From a 5x7 inch wet plate collodion negative (on glass). Schneider Symmar lens used, not quite wide open.
Old Workhorse developed...
Yes; modified with a diffuser and filled with modified compact fluorescent lights. Glad you like it, thanks.
Thanks, Hugo!
Much appreciated.
Thank you, Otto!
"Turn The Page"
From a 5x7 inch wet plate collodion negative.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51044927276_2dd9f31cdb_b.jpg
Why?? D-76 is stupidly easy to make and I've been doing it from scratch since 1985.
After purchasing bad batches of Xtol twice, bad Dektol and bad D-76 in the past 18 months, I am not buying Kodak chemistry for the foreseeable future. (Remember, Kodak promised replacement Xtol by...
This mirrors my experience as well: Rodinal gave very poor results, with ugly, clumpy grain, poor tonality and very poor shadow detail. ANY other developer is better.
At Blue Moon Camera, I can buy Pancro400 for $125 a box (8x10) whereas HP5+ is $170 for a box. So yes, that's exactly what was being expressed: the Bergger product is $45 cheaper than the equivalent...
Congratulations, Jim! I hope I get to see the show.
There isn't a B&W emulsion out there that actually gives optimal results at "box speed", so Bergger is no different from the rest. I've never exposed any B&W film at the stated box speed and gotten...
He's saying its $25 cheaper than HP5+
I assume you're talking about Pancro400.
This is not an easy film to work with, but when you get it right, it produces beautiful results. For starters, its NOT a true 400 ASA film. Expect to have to...
The rainbow colors seen in your photo are NOT evidence of separation of lens elements, it is simply how the coatings appear in certain lighting. There is absolutely nothing wrong with your lens.
Did this discussion not answer your question?: https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/rodenstock-150mm-is-this-dust-or-the-dreaded.182420/
I found that outdoors under heavy overcast conditions, especially during the winter months, the speed of the 2ASA plates is more like 0.5ASA. I've found this to be true when shooting in dense shade...
It helps that I have a lot of experience making wet plate glass negatives. Just clean your glass really well and you’ll be fine.
I recently bought a bottle of that Foma Photo Emulsion with the idea of making my own dry plates for negatives. I set about prepping 5x7 inch glass two nights ago, and followed the same protocol for...
I suspect that as long as you've cleaned the glass scrupulously and rinsed with distilled water at the end, you can coat the glass without subbing. The guy who publishes Lost Light Art (Nejc) in...
Has anyone received replacement product from Kodak yet?
March 1st and I've heard/received nothing.
Portriga Rapid was king of graded papers, in my opinion. Fomatone Classic comes very close to emulating the Portriga look.
Thanks very much.
I've found that in the winter months and under cloudy/low light conditions, the 2ASA plates are more like 0.5 ASA or less. To get a good result I have often given 3X what the meter told me.
Thats good to know. Its not stated on their web site. Getting the Old Workhorse as a 2 part Collodion is definitely an asset, since it won't be excessively aged by the time the buyer receives it.
Update: Its February 25 and no sign of the replacement Xtol Kodak said would be sent by Mid-February. No contact from Big K, no tracking, nothing. I can't pretend I'm surprised, but the last time...
The pages for the kits state that its pre-mixed, not 2 components.
Do NOT use that stuff. There are far less hazardous solvents to be had.
Karl, the solvent I use for removing old grease from shutter (and camera) components is simply Naphtha (lighter fluid). I've not encountered any lubricant that doesn't yield to Naphtha with a little...
The Bostick & Sullivan kit is excellent, but I have two reservations about recommending it: 1) its far more expensive than what UV Photographics offer, and 2) you will receive VERY well aged Old...
Be careful - some of the tutorials on that channel suggest some very sketchy servicing techniques, so judge the instructions carefully and with caution. Any tutorial that suggests removing a front...
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50970355051_fd14670bde_b.jpg
Hasselblad, Pan-F, Xtol
Marys River, Corvallis OR
Thanks!
This is an information site, not a materials supplier.
Using D-25R replenisher?
Thank you for that information, Jim. I don't doubt your results at all. Do you suppose an accumulation of bromide also contributed to the properties of this well-seasoned developer? Also, do you...