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  1. Re: Use of X-ray film: technical discussion with example images

    Check your safelight; this may just be optical fogging of the film.
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    Re: Wet Plate Collodion - Alcohol

    I don't use that particular brand but something that is likely equivalent; 95% bio-ethanol. Works fine as far as I can tell.
  3. Re: Question about using gelatine for salt printing

    I never got satisfactory results with dichromate or digital negatives (same printer as you are using) with salt prints. The way to go are real silver negatives with very high density range. It'll...
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    Re: Salted Paper Prints - Technical Question

    I get the best results if I go inmediately from the salt application to the silver coating, drying the paper in between and afterwards with a hairdryer. I do not size the paper, which could make a...
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    Re: Proper Formula for Sodium Chloropalladite?

    Good catch Maris!
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    203

    Re: Proper Formula for Sodium Chloropalladite?

    Correct.
    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sodium_tetrachloropalladate
    https://www.commonchemistry.org/ChemicalDetail.aspx?ref=13820-53-6
  7. Re: Question about using gelatine for salt printing

    I didn't notice this, but I generally omit the gelatin as I found it made virtually no difference at this concentration.
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    Re: Need help printing Carestream EB/RA

    @kludge xray film prints fine on VC paper. The blue base may increase contrast a bit, but it's entirely manageable.

    @Jim Noel: Ektascan BRA seems to work quite well at around 50-100 in my...
  9. Thread: C41 stand

    by koraks
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    211

    Re: C41 stand

    Blackness of the frame/rwbate area is really a matter of digital post processing or exposure time when printing. If you have insufficient contrast for a good print (optical) with black rebate area...
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    Re: Vitamin C developer question

    I used the gainer vit C formula for a while on small format film. It worked, but it wasnt wasn't special. Looked a bit like a grainy d76 variant. Instant mytol is a vitamin C developer xtol clone...
  11. Re: SP445 tank processing Delta100 and Pyrocat HD help please

    Tabular grain films like delta and tmax generally stain a little less conspicuously than cubic/mixes "old style" emulsions, I find.
  12. Re: How to tell if metol (in powder form) has gone bad

    Light brown/tan should be fine.
    You may want to reconsider how you store it if it shifted much in color within 2-3 years.
  13. Re: SP445 tank processing Delta100 and Pyrocat HD help please

    The stain is very apparent if you hold two negatives side by side, one developed in a staining developer and one done in a regular developer. Looking at just a single negative it's quite easy to...
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    Re: Capacity of PC-TEA

    https://www.photosensitive.ca/wp/easy-film-developers
    The version I mix is basically the first Instant Mytol version on that page, but with the metaborate replaced by sodium carbonate & borax (which...
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    Re: Capacity of PC-TEA

    I've used that Gainer formula (the carbonate one) as well for a while. Until I found out that instant mytol gave me much improved performance.
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    Re: Idea for a thread on sharing image scans

    I get it now Steven, I misinterpreted your idea initially. Yeah, I think you're right - we'll probably not be able to concistently guess correctly how a result was arrived at exactly. I for one...
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    Re: Interesting idea

    ...appreciate the image for what it is, perhaps?

    I wouldn't want to rain on anyone's parade and everyone's entitled to a little puzzle if they like. But the thing with photo forums is that they...
  18. Re: SP445 tank processing Delta100 and Pyrocat HD help please

    Well this at least proves you can get from delta100 what you want. Now it's just a matter of figuring out how. Give it a try with the pyrocat, see what happens.
  19. Re: Another SP-445 Question (Re: C-41 and "Blix Burp")

    You need some kind of venting during the first acid bath after the developer. I say 'first acid bath' because in order to prevent spilling your blix, you may consider using an acetic acid stop bath,...
  20. Re: SP445 tank processing Delta100 and Pyrocat HD help please

    Scanning for many people makes a little easier to deal with negatives that are sub-optimal from a darkroom printer's perspective.
    If you had trouble with blocked highlights before, you may want to...
  21. Re: SP445 tank processing Delta100 and Pyrocat HD help please

    16 minutes may be a bit generous, but will likely work OK. Checking the massive dev chart I see the same 16 minutes for EI100 and agitation 10 sec per 3 minutes. So I'd probably go with something...
  22. Thread: contact prints

    by koraks
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    Re: contact prints

    If you need AN glass depends on the film you use. With some types of film I do get newton rings, but often with sheet film I don't (except with tmax100). So give it a try with regular glass and...
  23. Thread: Water marks

    by koraks
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    Re: Water marks

    Looks like abrasion, not water marks. Tmax100 is perfectly smooth and hard on both sides; other films are more susceptible to mechanical damage. I think the problem is related to the holders in the...
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    Re: Starting 4x5 - Which film?

    Foma200 is in fact a quite capable film stock particularly in 4x5". I use it frequently and it's been a reliable and useful tool in my experience. As is fomapan100, but that's a slightly different...
  25. Re: Pre-soak for manual 4x5 B&W development in a Jobo tank?

    The antihalation dye has no influence on the development process whatsoever.
  26. Re: Pre-soak for manual 4x5 B&W development in a Jobo tank?

    I have never found a presoak to be necessary in B&W or color, in manual drum, tray or rotation processing.
  27. Re: I'm trying Fiber papers for the first time.

    I print quite a lot on adox mcc110 and 112. No lack of contrast here and no specific requirements on developers; it just works. Over developing a print is not really a concern if development times...
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    Re: Albumin Printing?

    I your brush and your skills in using it; I always got strokes with mine. And a puddle pusher never worked quite well for me with the fragile albumen coating. For that reason I stick to salt prints...
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    Re: Albumin Printing?

    Nice!
    How did you apply the sensitizer? Puddle pusher, brush, or float?
    Back when I experimented a bit with albumen, my personal conclusion was that only floating (especially the sensitizer, but...
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    Re: How do you store / organize your negs?

    Sheet film goes in envelopes in a box, sorted by date. Kind of crappy, but I'm too lazy to do it properly. One envelope per shoot/session. If it gets wet, I loose my stuff. Most of it is junk anyway!
  31. Re: Questions about 4x5 film developed by local lab

    Initially I made do with a changing bag, but some kind of darkroom (however small or improvised) is an incredible improvement. Just as long as it's really dark!
  32. Re: Questions about 4x5 film developed by local lab

    Given the fog in the rebate area of some negatives and the diagonal lines, the first question I'd have is how you loaded the film. A perfectly dark room? Changing bag? Make sure absolutely no light...
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    Re: IR 760 filter - rating film speed

    Can't you simply use a step-up ring to fit your 67mm filter on your 49 thread lens?
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    Re: Keeping Time tray developing film

    I used to use a Durst colortim until I built a digital darkroom clock with a few useful features; beeps at 30 second intervals during countdown and and long beep at zero, among others.
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    Re: HC110 1:63 mushy flat negatives dilution H

    What film?
  36. Re: Use of X-ray film: technical discussion with example images

    In my experience xray film is quite sensitive to over and under agitation. EB/RA less so than generic double sided, but still. Haven't tried stand development with it as I never saw the need for it....
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    Re: C-41 Developer Failure

    Mixed c41 developer generally easily lasts 4 weeks, provided that there is no oxygen in the bottle. You mention you didn't use an inert purge gas; does that mean that the developer was stored in a...
  38. Re: Box of paper dated 1952, what to do with it?

    Yes, try it out, and if it fails, go the origami route suggested by Bob. Sometimes, old paper can be surprisingly good. Agfa Brovira from the 1980s (I guess) comes to mind. I use that regularly and...
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    Re: Citric and acetic acid as stop (bath)

    I generally keep my citric acid stop bath around for maximum ca 10 days. It's easy to tell when it goes bad as it will have strands of slime floating around in it. Discarding after one session is of...
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    Re: Paper similar to Hahnemühle Photo Rag

    It's probably impossible to find something with an identical surface, but matte fiber papers sometimes have a 'velvety' surface. Fomabrom matte comes to mind. Of course any silver gelatin paper can...
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