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Here's a pdf document that I cobbled together from various sources with the right heights for the negative stage plus photos and part number if you want to order the indicator scale.

Best,
...

Time to check for pinholes in your bellows and light leaks around the lensboard.

Doremus

... or glass. You might get a halo effect around the liquids that could be interesting. The more collimated the light source (think point-source or condensers), the less halo effect.

Pre-washing...

FWIW, I had a problem with some batches of TMY, in which the negatives came out veiled dark blue (presumably sensitizing dyes that didn't get removed during normal processing - I posted about it here...

Water pooling is bad. That's why wetting agents were developed and employed. Not only could your tap water contain impurities, but the difference in drying rate from areas with water pooling vs....

Your Tuff Shed floor likely doesn't leak a lot of air; it's just porous enough to breathe and not be a moisture barrier. You could just fill cracks/spaces in the floor without finishing it and get...

If it were me, I'd just go about sealing the floor and the doorway(s) well enough that your exhaust fan pulls air in through the filters. I have cheap linoleum flooring and vinyl wallbase in my...

Haven't read the entire thread; just thought I'd chime in with my solution.

The Doran light-tight louvers I bought were obviously just for one wall; the inside. No provision for outside.

What...

I agree with the others that a focus shift do to stacking filters is "theoretically" not your problem, however, stacking so many filters introduces a lot of other possible causes for...

AFAIK, all the really clear (i.e., not just translucent) A4 page protectors I purchased when I lived in Europe were polypropylene. There should be a way to confirm what your product is made from.
...

Corran,

I suppose that you're correct here and that a 196mm image circle is enough to allow tilts/swings for many situations, especially with a shorter focal length lens and when one is just...

Adam,

Sorry for adding to the confusion, if I did. But, you know, life is a fractal; the closer you look, the more complex it becomes :)

What you suggest is exactly what I would recommend: Go...

Well, for one thing, the CF for a 90mm that takes 67mm filters steps the filter size up to 86mm. So, it's harder to pack and requires the expense and bulk of carrying a set of 86mm filters just for...

Don't misunderstand me. It's not that you can't use a little tilt or swing by itself with a 75mm lens (although I don't really consider the 196mm of image circle "generous" or "plenty of room for...

I don't know Bob, I'm gettin' pretty good at it after all these years :)

Certainly, if I were shooting chromes as much as I used to when I was doing commercial work back in the 80s, I'd have a...

If you want to stick to the 67mm filter size, that rules out f/5.6 and f/4.5 90mm lenses and leaves the f/8s and the Rodenstock f/6.8 (that is assuming you don't want lenses that barely cover 4x5...

Ah, I see... This shows my total ignorance of Speed and Crown Graphics! All the more reason to not use them if you need tilts :)

Maybe the OP needs another camera? Really, if Graphic press...

For moderate front tilt on a camera that doesn't have tilt on the front standard, simply tilt the camera forward using your tripod's pan tilt head, tilt the back back plumb and center the image using...

In other words, the "Normal" you are developing to is simply a different contrast index than that for traditional photo paper. In all other respects, the Zone System applies to scanning just as well...

Scissors?

I think if I were contact printing, I'd go 11x14 and then end up trimming each image on my Rotatrim to the exact borders and aspect ratios I wanted for each image.

Doremus

Basically correct.

As Drew above so succinctly formulated it, "I always spotmeter for the specific film and lighting situation actually at hand, along with a general ideal of expectation in the...

Alan,

You certainly have a point. However, most modern films (at least the ones I use) don't start to shoulder appreciably until Zone X or even higher. Knowing your materials is key here, as...

Hi ic, (hope you don't mind the nick-name :) )

I use a Voss filter holder with barn doors for a lens shade when in the field. It's small and compact and fits easily in a shirt/vest pocket. It...

Bernice,

Interesting discussion!

I agree that focal lengths that more closely approximate the angle of view of the eye are, in essence, more "natural." Very wide and very narrow angles of view...

Alan,

(Talking B&W film here too.)

Right you are! What you do gets the job done splendidly.

However, I submit (humbly) that you're maybe wasting a lot of time metering anything else but a...

The danger with averaging high and low values, which you are basically doing, is that with scenes of larger luminance range, you end up underexposing the shadow values (or overexposing highlights,...

Bernice,

I choose slightly wider than "normal" because I crop my images when enlarging. Having a slightly wider lens allows me the option of cropping down to "normal" or not, but also allows me...

Glad my post is helping out! Do get the latest version with step #7 corrected!

Best,

Doremus

For years, my go-to field camera for landscape/outdoor work has been a Wista DX with an assortment of lightweight lenses. My most used focal length is 135mm, usually a compact Plasmat lens. Still, I...

Glad to be of assistance. Thanks for the glowing review!

Doremus

That's how I'd do it, Alan. I can't think of a better way.

Doremus

The second. Thanks for catching this! Post corrected. Sorry for the mix-up.

+1

ic-racer

While it is technically correct about magnification being determined by film-to-subject distance, you've left out important parts of the whole picture. Moving the lens in-and-out of...

Observation: When using axis tilts, I don't "focus on the near, tilt for the far." I place a focus point (i.e., one of the points along the plane that I want to be in sharp focus) on the axis and...

With close up work, focusing by moving the lens stage moves the lens in relation to the subject a rather large percentage of the total distance, thus effectively changing the "camera-to-subject...

Looking forward to hearing your results, John. TIA

You likely just selenium intensified your negative, increasing contrast about Zone's worth or a bit less.

I'm the one that has had strong selenium toner (mixed 1+2 for negative intensification)...

Alan,

Sorry if I assumed you were making the mistake of using your ground glass to choose the camera position. It seems you've got a good method. I hope I didn't come off as "tech-splaining"...

Don't get me wrong, Drew, I like viewing the image on the ground glass too. It's just that sometimes (more often than I'd like) circumstances keep me from being able to comfortably see everything at...