It's what others have done (Ralph Gibson, in particular). The results do tend to be hard to print, based on my own experience, but you maximise grain. Using a film with a definite shoulder helps with...
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It's what others have done (Ralph Gibson, in particular). The results do tend to be hard to print, based on my own experience, but you maximise grain. Using a film with a definite shoulder helps with...
Most people think that pushing film is the way to go, but that's not a good approach.
The short version: choose the grainiest film you can, overexpose, overdevelop, and print on the highest grade...
I usually get negs that look like that, too. There is a stain image, but it's very hard to see it if there's no general staining. If you have any rehal bleach, you can use it to remove the silver...
Reversal bleach removes silver metal, and won't do anything if used before development, when only silver halides are present.
Emulsion side facing the camera.
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I've bought both Foma and the Arista rebrand. The packaging is identical, and as described by Mark J. Only the adhesive label is different.
It's a perfectly usable film for a lot of situations....
Vaughn is right. You just need a dehumidifier.
I use one for drying laundry here in Sydney. I collect the condensate for clearing VDB prints, amongst other things. It produces more than I need;...
Asked and answered on the B&H web site:
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/123477-REG/Photographers_Formulary_07_0070_Kallitype_Printing_Kit.html/qa
Is it this film?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Kodak-Scientific-Imaging-Film-Cat-864-6770-8-x-10-in-/334925108018
The image shows a label that includes the terms "X-OMAT LS". This seems to be a...
If neither exposure nor masking have an effect, I'd say it's most likely the paper or the chemistry.
Mike Ware's Cyanomicon (free on his web site) has a process for diagnosing fog in cyanotypes,...
Usually, "physical developer" implies that silver is added to the emulsion by the developer itself. E.g.,
https://unblinkingeye.com/Articles/Physical/physical.html
There's not much out there by way of free documentation. I did find a paper titled "Secondary "Low Intensity" Exposure Method of Latensification", by Vincent Gallo, dated 1960.
The basic...
A church window. VDB print from an old TMZ neg, enlarged onto lith film.
I'm sure some people reading this have photographed this church at some point!
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There's a common paper size called "imperial", but usually referred to as "full sheet", 30x22 inches, or 56x76cm. A lot of art papers are sold in this size. Often two edges are deckled, which I think...
https://www.soberingfuneralchapel.com/dianne-best/
Paper is a high contrast material with a very short exposure scale, so getting the right exposure can be challenging. A dimmer light source will help, but you'll also need to do some test strips to...
A while ago I switched to single-tray processing due to a lack of space, and it worked so well I wished I'd done it years before. Here's what steered me in this direction:
...
It's Aviphot 80, so it also has IR capability.
Retro 80S and HR50 are the same film.
I use "Light Meter - Free", and it's accurate, with enough features to do what need. Also free, so there are no significant costs for trying it.
Not for a long time. If you haven't already, search for Centennial POP, which was the last commercial version.
There are articles on unblinking eye and the light farm about making silver gelatin...
Near Hartley Vale Rd, June 5, 2021.
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Foma 100, 8x10 pinhole, platinum-toned VDB.
If you need longer exposure times, you should consider Foma 100. I use it in my 8x10 pinhole camera, and it reciprocity failure means exposure times are never less than about 10 seconds.
Some years ago, Stephen Livick wrote a book about gum printing that includes a description of a DIY vaccum easel. There are PDFs of it floating around the net. Personally, I think what described is...
It actually looks like an issue with the paper... to me, it looks like the sizing (assuming this SG paper is sized). I've seen similar things with the watercolour paper I use for alt processes, but...
Try rolling, rather than shaking.
I've bought a number of pinholes from fireseller66 on eBay, and the quality has been excellent. I'd recommend them to anybody.
A somewhat safer intensification process: a standard rehal bleach of ferricyanide and potassium bromide, followed by redevelopment in a staining developer. This can be repeated any number of times;...
PC-TEA is pretty simple: phenidone, vitamin C and TEA. I've also made Parodinal several times: paracetamol, sodium hydroxide, sodium sulfite and water.
In general, though, I prefer Pyrocat HD in...
I think the only easy way to get a 60Hz AC supply is with an inverter. I don't know how well that would work; your timer probably expects a clean 60Hz input, and an inverter might generate some noise.
Quite a lot, in hindsight.
Started mixing my own developers and fixer from scratch. Finally worked out a reliable method for enlarging negs onto lith film. Found a good paper and process for...
Just curious about this... this chromium intensifier is a bleach/redevelop process, right? So is it not possible to bleach it back with a rehal bleach again, redevelop to a lower contrast, then fix?
It happened to me quite recently, but with Pyrocat HD in glycol that I made from scratch. There wasn't much of it, and initially it was made up of transparent/whitish particles, which have since...
You're welcome!
Much to my surprise, I found the VDB print that I sepia toned a while back; it turned up when I was going through my stack of papers and film. Here's a scan... the colour you see is pretty accurate,...
Watch out for the smoke! It's a much greater hazard then most people think. The smoke from the recent fires here in Australia probably killed far more people than the fire itself.
Stunning! I wish my efforts were half as good.
The huon pine must have cost a pretty penny.
I'm not koraks, but I did try sepia toning a VDB print a while ago. I used a finished print (fixed and dried) and followed the usual process: bleach then redevelop with thiourea. It worked, in the...
Thanks! I got lucky with a very clear sky that day.
This shows what the film can do with an R72 filter. (Apologies for posting a 35mm image, but it's all I have for this film.)
This was at 80 ISO, but 50 ISO is closer to the mark.
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RPX25 is Agfa Aviphot 80, the same film as Retro 80s. An R72 filter will produce pretty good IR images.