I craft B&W digital negatives all the time for pt/pd printing so I see no reason why a color image couldn't be printed on Pictorico film. But, IMO that would be the extent of the exercise. That...
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I craft B&W digital negatives all the time for pt/pd printing so I see no reason why a color image couldn't be printed on Pictorico film. But, IMO that would be the extent of the exercise. That...
Great news indeed! Enjoy shooting those dry plates...it's a lot of fun!
Jason hasn't made any plates since mid-2022. A supply was available for a short while, but that dried up quickly. Seeing how we're now approaching two years sans J Lane plates I wouldn't be holding...
At the moment, Zebra Dry Plates are the only commercially available ones that I'm aware of.
In my experience with the SP-445, I found that too vigorous of agitation must have caused the film to move slightly in the holders which left dig marks in the emulsion from the small clips that hold...
I'm also in the "don't care for it much" camp with HP-5+. I really tried to like it many years ago, but I suppose after shooting Tri-X 320 for so many years the HP-5+ just didn't sing for me. YMMV,...
I do have separate sets of lenses for 4x5 and 8x10, but that's mainly because I started with the "smaller" format over 40 years ago, moved on to 8x10 some years later and didn't know about lenses...
If you review his technical tips page on his website, you'll find that 510-Pyro is the first developer listed; and, I believe, they're listed in order of preference. On your side of the pond, Zone...
If you're using Zebra Dry plates, I personally found HC-110 to be much too aggressive and my first plates were nearly black, too. I finally settled on Thornton's Two-Bath or 510-Pyro at 1:150. If...
Neither of my 8x10 backpacks have a place for a tripod. I just carry it in one hand or over my shoulder. Besides, with the size/weight of tripods generally used for this size camera I can't really...
In addition to what Paul said, I've found that different film stocks reveal different levels of stain. For example, Fomapan 100 reveals a fairly strong stain color (for me) whereas Tri-X is barely...
If you do experiment with pt/pd printing (I believe you mentioned this as an option), you could create 11x14 digital negs from any smaller format film or digital image file.
Based on what you say you're after, IMO you couldn't go wrong with Ilford Warmtone FB.
Tanks & hangers will certainly work, but you have to process in the dark and results can vary. Many photographers use these successfully, but, personally, after many tries at it I never arrived at an...
My only real issue with the Reveni Spot Meter is that it's really not a spot meter. I think of it more as a heavily weighted center area meter. Yes, I realize the outer circle around the "spot"...
I bought this same lens brand new in the early 80's and have used it on my 8x10 Deardorff for over 40 years. Image quality wise it has never left me wanting, but in recent years I use a Fuji 360A...
I scan PrintFile sheets of 35mm, MF, and 4x5 on a flatbed scanner, print each page on cheap glossy paper, then file each print with the appropriate negative page. For 8x10, I just lay the film on the...
I've used Fomapan 100 in 8x10 sheet size for many years, developed it in several different formulas, and I've always been pleased with the results. I've never seen any of the quality control issues...
On my copy, f/16, f/22, in that range. Please understand that when I say "it's soft in the corners" I'm not talking ridiculously mussy. Rather, the kind of softness one sees in many wide angle...
I have this version and, also, the slightly later NW version. Personally, I found the earlier version to exhibit corners that were too soft for my taste; and, this was on 4x5. In my experience, the...
Very nice! I'm sure the B&H box base is critical to your success! :D
Personally, I would strongly recommend the Jobo 3005 drum as it will provide the most even development, IMO. You don't need a Jobo processor or any type of motor base to use a 3005 drum. You can...
Same here! I don't do many expansions/contractions of my film nowadays, but back when I did I preferred something a bit different from your standard ZS expansions (hardly ever did contractions.) For...
Many years ago. I built a platform that held my 8x10 Deardorff and a 12x12 Aristo light source behind the camera. I custom made a glass negative carrier that replaced the ground glass. This entire...
For me, a "proper proof" is a must have tool because it enables me to easily see if anything wonky is happening in my processes.
Ansel's books will certainly cover EVERYTHING you need to know about the Zone System, but aren't necessarily easy to understand. Save yourself a lot of headache and get a copy of "The Zone VI...
For many years, I used single-size easels that have an iron bar about 1/4" square that forms the borders. I only used 8x10 and 11x14 because those were the sizes I print 99% of the time; more 8x10...
I used them when I lived in Vermont, but I was on a spring. On city water nowadays, I use tap water for all washing and RO / distilled water for all chemicals.
Isn't that an oxymoron? Does it ever really get warm in Vermont? ;)
(P.S. I lived in central VT for 18 years and I still vividly remember the year it snowed in July! We never got what I'd call a...
Kodak films are just too expensive nowadays for my budget. I shot a LOT of 8x10 Tri-X back in the days when it was $50 for a 50-sheet box. Can you imagine? Ilford films have gotten pretty pricey now,...
What I meant was that higher dilutions will, generally, enable longer development times. Dilution B with constant agitation yields development times of under 5 mins, in my experience.
You might want to look at some older YT videos of Ben Horne. He doesn't use an AS 8x10 any longer, but he did for several years.
IMO, if you're satisfied with the results you're getting now, don't change anything. Nothing wrong with the combos you've chosen.
HC-110 is easily controllable in any Jobo tank, if you use higher dilutions; dil H, for example. The issue here is ensuring that enough concentrate is present to properly development whatever sq in...
I use a sewing tape measure to measure the distance from the film plane to the lens center. Convert the lens focal length and prior measurement to the closet f-stops and the difference is your...
I've used HC-110 in my CPP2 successfully for nearly 30 years. I'm sure I'm in the minority but, personally I never cared for XTOL.
First, HC-110 and Ilfotec HC are pretty much interchangeable. Therefore, pick either one and test. Personally, I've been running a CPP-2 and Expert Drums for nearly 30 years and have used many...
I don't know if all acetate is created equal, but I got mine from Aztek and the box is labeled: Scanner Overlay Graphic Arts film. I use KAMI fluid. Once everything is laid down and rolled out, the...
That's almost what I do, except I don't use the glass or remove the acetate. Therefore, my setup is: puddle of scanning fluid on the glass, film emulsion up, puddle of scanning fluid on film,...
If you really have to develop some film before you have all the correct tabs, I would suggest keeping the "missing end tab" hole toward the center of a sheet. That is, make sure you have the corners...