Use of X-ray film: technical discussion with example images

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Originally Posted by koraks

Roberto, you could try using a single tray for the entire process. After development, pour out the developer and pour in the stop bath. Then with stop to fix, the same procedure. That way you don't have to touch the film during processing, only when taking it out of the tray at the end.

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That's a good tip, Koraks. Thank you. What about flipping the film one side to the other to refresh the chemicals on the bottom side of the sheet? Do you flip it or just keep it one side up all the time?

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Originally Posted by Tin Can

Generally I am processing 11X14 in 3 smooth bottom trays under red safelight bounced
I don't use gloves, Rodinol 1/100 distilled water, distilled stop, TF5 distilled
As my holders have a generous rebate, I pinch with my tiny fingers only on rebate
Those chems do not bother my bare skin, but I move quickly and wash my fingers very often in wash tanks
ymmv
for tiny format I have special tiny waffle cans and touch nothing as I even dry in the can
I am sensitive to some chems, so I don't use them
Paper I use tongs
I also use various size KODAK film/plate hangers
Glass plates I use a teflon spatula

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Hello Tin, yes, a rapid fixer is good; I cannot purchase P.F. chemicals in Italy, I use standard thiosulfate based fixer at 1+4 dilution. I noticed that my film (AGFA CP-GU) exhausts the fixer quite fast (faster than standard film), giving the solution a yellowish tint.
I will definitely touch the sheets at the very edge.

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Originally Posted by Andrew O'Neill

I use one, flat-bottomed tray for 8x10 and a larger one for 14x17, double-sided film. I wear nitrile gloves. No issues. Another great thing about using one tray is that it is a space-saver, especially for those who have small darkrooms (me). I think I have videos on my youtube channel where I'm working this way...

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Thank you Andrew, I have a small darkroom too so this thing of one tray for the whole process appeals me a lot! I will search for the video.

Here below one of the pictures. Note finger tips with the glove texture at the top and right side of the image. I really think that the glove was still wet with the fixer from the previous sheet when I have use it for the next sheet in the developer. I use to wash the glove after processing each sheet; maybe I wash it too fast.

Attachment 235763

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Originally Posted by Roberto Nania

That's a good tip, Koraks. Thank you. What about flipping the film one side to the other to refresh the chemicals on the bottom side of the sheet? Do you flip it or just keep it one side up all the time?

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Sorry, I meant to add to my previous post that my approach works well for single sided film, not double sided film.
I tried double sided film initially, but after a couple hundred sheets I decided I didn't like how finicky it was in terms of development (evenness, scratches etc) so I moved to single-sided film instead. It's more expensive and harder to get than the double sided film, though.

I also experimented with stripping the backside emulsion off of double-sided film after processing. This worked of sorts, but it's messy, carries the risk of damage to the image side and is an additional processing step, so I never pursued it very far.

Not anymore

I bought a lot when special order were available years ago

I warned for several years that Wet X-Ray is being phased out

Yes industrial X-Ray which is a bit different will survive for steel crack,stress analysis

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Originally Posted by LF_Alex

Do they have any X-Ray film with emulsion on one side only?

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https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...6d1ac2d8_b.jpg18x24 Mammo Sinar Norma 300 Xenar Arista No 2 RC by Nokton48, on Flickr

Second test of 18x24cm Kodak Min-R XRay film developed 18 minutes at 60F Straight replenished Legacy Mic-X in Cesco trays. 300mm Schneider Xenar barrel lens f22 Yellow Filter. Four pops Broncolor C171 Beauty Light Contact Print 8x10 Arista #2 RC Multigrade dev. Again interesting how the red flowers go deep black. Classic Orthochromatic rendition. 8x10/18x24 Sinar Norma

Wonderfull

Thanks Tin Can!

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...d2d244bc_b.jpg18x24 Sinar Norma 300 Xenar F4.5 Rembrandt Lighting by Nokton48, on Flickr

The cool thing about having multiple Normas, is that you can leave them set up for a while. Getting ready to shoot this one. Classic Rembrandt Lighting, Broncolor Beauty Light pointed straight down from up high as possible. Silver reflector on the floor tilted towards the subject. Lens is 300mm chrome Schneider Xenar, on custom made Norma board. Xenars are lovely to shoot through at near full aperture. The focus blows out behind the front row of petals which I find attractive. Strobe meter says F22 at EI 50 so just one pop will do. Canvas Background is by David Maheu "Kelly Grey" Like it Stormy Grey middle key with no corner vignettes. I can vignette with light if required

The setup for above Mammo exposure ^^^

I have scanned many V700 X-Ray films in color

Try Photoshop in color with Blue Tint X-Ray

There are no rules

X-Ray Film Primer

Given the price of film these days, I thought I would experiment a little with x-ray film for my 8x10. I looked around the site for a primer, but all there is is the massive x-ray thread, so I started going back through that and taking some notes to help me get started. I present those here for the comments and corrections of the experts, and in the hope they will be of some use to other beginners.

Selecting a Film
Double-sided green sensitive film is the most popular, for its qualities and price. https://www.zzmedical.com/ seems like a good vendor, but its also available on Amazon and ebay. At ZZ, 100 sheets of 8x10 is currently $38. Single-sided mammography film is preferred by some for ease of handling, but is more expensive, and harder to find. Pre-cut film (4x5) can be had from some photo suppliers, but is pricey compared to the raw stuff.

Rating the Film (exposure index)
I found people rating the film from EI 6 al the way up to EI 400. An EI of 50 seems about the average. Time of day outdoors matters, as the film is not sensitive to red, so requires more exposure in the red light of early morning and towards sunset.

Taming Contrast
The film has higher contrast than normal film. Contrast can be reduced by using a yellow filter when shooting. When using a yellow filter, add three stops exposure. Contrast can also be reduced by using low-contrast or highly diluted developers

Developing
Film can be developed under a dim red safelight, although it would be good to test your light. There are specific x-ray film safelights available. The emulsion of the film is soft and scratches easily. Fingerprints are also a concern, so hold film by edges or use nitrile gloves. Develop in glass or plexiglass bottomed trays, or pyrex or enamel baking dishes, to reduce potential for scratches. Can be developed using the one tray method, although this may not be as effective for double-sided as opposed to single sided. Other common development methods are mounting on hangers and developing in tanks.

Suggested developers and times for green double-sided film
• Rodinal 1:100 6 minutes at EI 50 68 degrees Corran #6182
• D-76 1:2 7 minutes at EI 50
• D-23 1:2 7 min 30 sec at EI 50 68 degrees Bob Wagner #6185
• Dektol 1:12 75-90 sec 58-60 Aero #6167

After gaining some experience, most workers seem to practice development by inspection.

Using a Filter on your Lightmeter
The following text is from post #6124 (page 613) from Michael R. The idea behind using a cyan filter on the meter would be to make the meter “see” more like the film does. Loosely speaking, an orthochromatic film can’t see red light, so if the meter can’t see red light either, it might give more useful exposure readings for the film. It’s not going to work perfectly but anyway. A cyan filter such as the Wratten 44A (“minus red”) would be one to try. This assumes no filter on the taking lens.

If you use a yellow filter on the taking lens, to attenuate blue, you’re effectively using mostly green light to expose the film, in which case a green filter on the meter would better approximate how the film sees.

These will only be approximate adjustments due to the inherent differences in spectral sensitivities of the meter and film. Obviously, the specific filter used on the taking lens will affect this.

Comparing X-Ray to Regular Film
LFPF Member Andrew O’Neill made a great video comparing regular and x-ray film. This video also shows the development process. The video is available at post #6070, or on youtube at this link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Vwi...83%87%E3%82%A3

Cutting Film
I didn’t get any notes on this, so if anyone knows a particular post describing cutting film to size, let me know and I’ll add.

I’ve used X-Ray film since about 2008. I think you have a very good summary. The only thing I’d add is that tanning developers such as Pyrocat, ABC Pyro, 510 Pyro, etc. may help reduce scratches.