Use of X-ray film: technical discussion with example images

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Originally Posted by sanking

Does the lack of sharpness come from the coating on both sides? And is all of the xray film coated on both sides? Jim Fitzgerald is using this stuff for carbon transfer printing, which is a very sharp process, (with ULF negatives at that) and I can not imagine that he would be using the stuff if it did not give sharp results.

Sandy King

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Well, everyone I'm back. Sorry for the delay. Computer problems and life events in the way.
I have gotten great results using the green sensitive film for my carbon work. The film is very sharp (in my opinion). I've used old and new lenses and love what I get.

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Originally Posted by Andrew O'Neill

I would be very grateful if any x-ray green latitude film users the next time you're out shooting, if you could apply my reciprocity effect data to your exposure. Works for me, but curious to know if it would work for you. Thankyou. :)

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Andrew, thanks for this info. Next time I'm out I'll give it a try. In the past I've not used any reciprocity factors in my exposure and have been very satisfied with the results. So i'll see what happens.

Jim

Jim, how long are your exposures usually?

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Originally Posted by Andrew O'Neill

Jim, how long are your exposures usually?

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Andrew, they can generally run from about 20 seconds to a couple of minutes or more.

Jim

I read this whole series of posts only because x-ray film comes on a thicker base than the arista ortho I usually use. I was afraid the thin base arista ortho would sag or buckle in 8X10. I was turned off by the scratch problems 'till I read about the zip-loc bag process, which sounds so promising I'm going to have to try it.

and be very careful loading your film holders.

The scratches are really bothersome. I definately do not enjoy them on my film. Had an idea to throw a sheet through my Durst print processor to see what happens. Then decided I didn't want emulsion stuck to all of my rollers........

But for the hell of it, I just gave Dektol (1:2, 18C) a go on two frames I shot and it works great. Zero scratches on the second sheet in the minute they were in the trays. Cutting back that time in there, cuts back on the risks of scratching.

Bottom sheet scratched up some on the bottom of the tray. And it was just laid there. Stand developed for the duration. So I'm thinking there isn't any way around those scratches. Though it does look like that one sheet on bottom protects the next sheet from becoming scratched up. Like I said, zero scratches.

Negatives look great but are still drying. I'll try to do some prints tommorow to really see how good it worked.

Could you keep a sheet of fixed out film to place on the bottom and protect the sheet being developed?

Guys, 8x10 in hangers in tanks. Zero scratches.

Jim

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Originally Posted by venchka

Could you keep a sheet of fixed out film to place on the bottom and protect the sheet being developed?

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Yes, it works very well. I have used this method for 11x14 and 8x10 before I got hangers and scratches were pretty much eliminated. The film does have to be flipped so each side is evenly developed but if the film on the bottom of the tray is larger than the sheet you're developing, it's easy.