Correction. I just printed the reverse of this image and I think I got it wrong to begin with. The image I just printed looks much sharper.
Jim
Printable View
Correction. I just printed the reverse of this image and I think I got it wrong to begin with. The image I just printed looks much sharper.
Jim
I was given today several sheets of FOMA Dentix Panoramic Green and Blue film (12,7x30,5cm) and Medix XBU (blue) / XG (green) film 35x43cm: does some know this films? Jiri?
I am in the middle of testing CXS Blue for EI, along with lenscapshutter, filmholders for light leaks, development times, and maximum rise on my 2D.
I shot in mid day daylight using a Fuji 250 f6.7 with a shutter, and tried EI 125 and EI 250. BOth seem to be in the ballpark nicely.
For developing I used Clayton F60 concentrate, cuz I had unopened gallon
I started with 10 oz + 96 oz and got a very faint immage in 6 min, so I added 5 oz and tried 7 min- whooaaa boiler plate
BUt around 5-1/2 at 69 F appears to work pretty well- no contacts yet, just looking thru the neg. In the neg I even got separation of airplane contrails from the high blue sky, and separation of light roof from blue sky
I made a couple of seemingly good negs with a 180 Protar V from eddie gunks.
Like he said it would be- I never ran out of rise, and I need it for the feedmill.
Who knew it could come out so well- if I had known I wouldn't have marked the holder number on the film, in the sky, large, right at the peak of the feedmill roof peak.
Maybe prints tomorrow, then to re-shoot and try by about half.
I got a windowscreenframe hanger made for 8x10- the concept will work, I think, and tomorrow I'll dunk it in the trays to see how it stands up the the chemicals. If it does, I have a jig to assemble 7x17s- today's project is to see if I can finish the filmholder for the Bahnhof No2 7x17 panoramic Poco, that's has had me intimidated for a year or so.
I am verrrrrry slow, but thanks again to you folks who have shown the way
Dann, what a cliff hanger... looking forward to hearing about your results.
Your technique suggests a jobo drum could be used to develop the exposed side and the bleach to remove the backside.
Has anyone tried developing with a Unidrum where chemicals can get in between the drum and the backside of the film?
So, if I don't to be a stripper, I better stay away from the drums. :)
This may have been answered already, but can photographs taken with x-ray film be developed with x-ray developer? The reason I ask this is I work at a hospital that is in the process of going digital and there are literally thousands of unused x-ray film sheets and gallons & gallons of developer and fixer that I have dibs on, as no one else has any use for it. I had at first just been interested in the equipment -safety lights, film safes, etc., but when I read that x-ray film can be used in cameras (something I had wondered about for some time now) the idea getting all that free film along with the equipment is really exciting. Also, on the developer, can it be used on regular B&W film?
David- you the man to tell US about the developer. I have found that the specialty stuff is described in ways foreign to "real" photography- even tho it may be useable. We depend on the kindness of strangers- to try stuff for which info is not available.
Obviously, that usually requires free or reeeeaaaaly cheap stuff for experiments.
So I hope you try it and find it useful. It "Should" work, as the film responds to pictorial use. You may find the developer has special characteristics, such as high contrast or short developing times or ??? , some of which you could counteract by dilution I suppose. Or see if Pat Gainer, who loves to mess about with developers and chemicals, wants to play.
Well eddie I DO plan to present one of them, if for no other reason than to show the tones- maybe I'll print in the next day or so......
As for 11x14, I don't have one- got any ideas ??