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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2848/1...4f58b97b_b.jpg
One of the only trees out of brush and cover on Kangaroo Island,
Scan of Contact Print,Kodak 2D-270mm G-Claron Lens K2 Filter
Paper: Agfa Fibre Matt
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3727/1...d41c1a71_b.jpg
The Gorge near Adelaide,
Scan of Contact Print,Kodak 2D-270mm G-Claron Lens
Paper: Foma Variant Gloss(Resin)
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3821/1...7ee355b1_b.jpg
The Gorge near Adelaide,
Scan of Contact Print,Kodak 2D-270mm G-Claron Lens
Paper: Foma Variant Gloss(Resin)
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5525/1...f004d00b_b.jpg
The Gorge near Adelaide,
Scan of Contact Print,Kodak 2D-270mm G-Claron Lens
Paper: Foma Variant Gloss(Resin)
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Bazz8
Those moving water shots are so extreme, it's almost a little confusing trying to figure out what's happening in the image, wow
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
Great work, Baz.
I'm tempted to try x-ray film myself, except that I see it's very hard to tame. You're doing well!
Where do you get your x-ray film in au?
Regards,
another Baz
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Barry Kirsten
Great work, Baz.
I'm tempted to try x-ray film myself, except that I see it's very hard to tame. You're doing well!
Where do you get your x-ray film in au?
Regards,
another Baz
It has been a journey,I decided to build a 8x10 camera so I bought the seperate pieces of a Kodak 2D
from John Shui and others , got a set of bellows and a lens I decided to go for the Fuji Hrt except in Au no 8x10
only 180x240 so I got 100 sheets from fuji about $45 then a retailer got involved and the price went to $110
which impressed me no end LOL
I have sourced 8x10 from Ebay US from several suppliers knocking me back which is a pain so $30-35 box 100 8x10
around $64 postage so still around the $100 mark. I have tried Australian suppliers and received we don,t sell to the public
line, I am going to contact China instead and see how that goes! For some obscure reason many American sellers will not deal
with Australia ( I suspect the FBI or CIA) lol their loss.
I have been assisted greatly through a mentor who introduced me to BTZS which I use for my 5x4 Arista 200 we used a Btzs
file for Ilford FP4 and did a test print or two to fine tune the file which is on my I-Phone now
so film speed in shade 39 approx in the bright sun I have one on the software showing film-speed 50-60
developer Rodinal 1:100
around 4-5 minutes
development in trays ( 15 sec rocking of the tray sideways and forward and back after neg in tank
15 sec every minute until dev complete) with glass in the bottom of the dev tray
the shots you have seen are the first that I have used a water bath of 2 minutes prior to development
I will continue this as the negative was much better to contact print with ,
stop 20 -30 sec( 3:1 vinegar)and fix 1 minute
I do one at a time,I do not shuffle negs which probably accounts for the tales of easy to scratch origins
I use a Kodak 1A safe light and this stuff it totally blind to the red safe light.
I could list the dozens of mistakes I have made but that's all part of the process.
If you are over in SA any time send me a email and we will have to catch up or if I am over your way
I will send you a email
regards
Bazz8
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2869/1...449d982a_b.jpg
Cape Borda Museum: available Light shot exposure 4min50 sec.
Camera Kodak 2D 8x10 G-Claron lens 270mm
Fuji HR-T
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3701/1...ff4e71d7_c.jpg
Tony by Lee Smathers, on Flickr
Taken With:
8x10 Korona, 12" Goerz Dagor
Fuji HR-A (Green Sensitive X-Ray)
Processed with:
Rodinal 1:100 for 4 min. in tanks and hangars
8x10 Contact Print on:
Fomabrom 111, D-72 1:2 2 min. + Kodak Selenium Toner 1:20 4 min.
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
Quote:
Originally Posted by
photoevangelist
Superb!
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
Very nice Lee, but what is the whole story?
I am still nowhere close to these results.
Back to slop for me...
Quote:
Originally Posted by
photoevangelist
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
Quote:
Originally Posted by
photoevangelist
Good Shot,and eye contact
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
Quote:
Originally Posted by
photoevangelist
Damn, it's all I got
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
http://u1.ipernity.com/40/44/85/2956...c55437.640.jpg
First trip out with the Fujinar f/4.5 250mm. I loved using this lens, its sharp and bright even in the ground glass. And having a shutter is definitely a plus. First Fuji glass for me, I think there will be more!
http://www.ipernity.com/doc/holdenrichards/29564485
1897 Ak-sar-ben Camera - Fujinar 250mm - f/45 - Kodak B/RA X-Ray - Dektol 1+10 - Unaltered Negative Scan
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
Quote:
Originally Posted by
photoevangelist
Taken With:
8x10 Korona, 12" Goerz Dagor
Fuji HR-A (Green Sensitive X-Ray)
Processed with:
Rodinal 1:100 for 4 min. in tanks and hangars
8x10 Contact Print on:
Fomabrom 111, D-72 1:2 2 min. + Kodak Selenium Toner 1:20 4 min.
Welcome back :) With nice one.
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
Nice one Lee, good to see you!
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Holdenrichards
Very nice, Holden! I really miss seeing your work on Flickr. I don't get over to ipernity much. I know a lot of photographers made the switch back in May.
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
Thanks for all the comments, guys! The last x-ray I shot was probably back around summertime with the 7x17 camera. The processing of the larger negatives really frustrated me. I needed a break from x-ray film. I was also doing a project with color 8x10 of the Daegu city monorail and busy with a Kickstarter project that didn't pan out fully.
This portrait was taken in mid-December. It was great to great to get out and play with the 8x10 and x-ray film again. I was feeling rusty and couldn't remember everything I was doing. I was going by instinct to be honest. I usually take my notepad and write my exposures down. I didn't this time. It was either f11 or f16. I thought I may have been overexposing my negatives too much (since I didn't use a yellow filter for this portrait, when I had with the students' pictures back in the Spring), so I decided to go for Rodinal 1:100 (40 ml of Rodinal + 4000 ml water) this time at the same times I was doing before: 4 min. This actually proved to be beneficial! I was printing these contact sheets with an Ilford Multigrade #2 or 2 1/2 filter instead of a #1/2 or #1 filter this time around.
I had some problems with processing though. We can't see them here, but on another portrait session I did outside on New Years Eve. (Perhaps, I'll continue to do x-ray work in a controlled lighting environment with the 8x10). I'll scan those prints and post a few in a few hours. I was getting hangar processing marks along the film edges (you'll see what I mean when I upload those). If I had an 8x10 enlarger, it would easily be cropped. But since I don't, all the errors are shown in the contact prints. I guess I could scan the negative and crop it out too, but this year I'm really trying to keep my black and white work in a darkroom workflow. When I scan negatives, I find myself uploading more work without thinking about the editing process (good ones vs. best ones), spending the extra time in the darkroom printing the images allows me to spend more time with an image and help me determine if it resonates with me.
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
Quote:
Originally Posted by
photoevangelist
[url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/lee_smathers/11920170555/]
Tony by
Lee Smathers, on Flickr
Taken With:
8x10 Korona, 12" Goerz Dagor
Fuji HR-A (Green Sensitive X-Ray)
Processed with:
Rodinal 1:100 for 4 min. in tanks and hangars
8x10 Contact Print on:
Fomabrom 111, D-72 1:2 2 min. + Kodak Selenium Toner 1:20 4 min.
Thanks Lee, This image of yours is really superb. I have had very good luck contact printing
X-ray. I have found filtering it a bit helps.
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
Hi there!
Does anyone have any experience with KODAK MIN-R S mammo film or ORWO HS-11 film? I just got a box each other by gift.
I did read the full thread (really!). I tried to develop that mentioned films in many way, but I'm failed yet now.
The negatives are so dark. Almost black. The photo on negative is very very thin independently by the used EI (80,64,50,25)... My safe light is safe - I did a test for made sure.
How have to look an x-ray negative (double coated) if it developed properly? How dark? Etc... I guest there is different from the ordinary BW nagetives... Maybe anyone can upload a photo from a properly developed, double coated negative before peeling ? (Not a scan, photo I mean...) It can help me a lot! :)
I tried to develop the MIN-R S film in Rodinal 1:100, HD-11 stock, HD-11 1:10, in 1:50 diluted paper developer (it was the closest result what I wait) but I'm failed to made a negative what I seen in this forum :(
I don't have tank but tray. I have some experience in developing sheet films in tray with good results, but the x-ray films what I have are beats me.
Thanks!
ps.: sorry for my bad english!
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
Quote:
Originally Posted by
lipi
Hi there!
Does anyone have any experience with KODAK MIN-R S mammo film or ORWO HS-11 film? I just got a box each other by gift.
I did read the full thread (really!). I tried to develop that mentioned films in many way, but I'm failed yet now.
The negatives are so dark. Almost black. The photo on negative is very very thin independently by the used EI (80,64,50,25)... My safe light is safe - I did a test for made sure.
How have to look an x-ray negative (double coated) if it developed properly? How dark? Etc... I guest there is different from the ordinary BW nagetives... Maybe anyone can upload a photo from a properly developed, double coated negative before peeling ? (Not a scan, photo I mean...) It can help me a lot! :)
I tried to develop the MIN-R S film in Rodinal 1:100, HD-11 stock, HD-11 1:10, in 1:50 diluted paper developer (it was the closest result what I wait) but I'm failed to made a negative what I seen in this forum :(
I don't have tank but tray. I have some experience in developing sheet films in tray with good results, but the x-ray films what I have are beats me.
Thanks!
ps.: sorry for my bad english!
I didn't see see anything wrong with your English. If the negatives are dark, it means they are over exposed. Or over developed. This makes for a thin print. A good negative is no different than a good negative with panchromatic film. You should be looking for the same quality of negative. Because green x-ray film is orthochromatic just really means it is blind to red light. Other than that, it's film. Your developers sound right, which is why I said over exposed. If you are having trouble with double sided film scratching during development, try putting a sheet of glass in the bottom of the development tray. I put the sheet of film in the tray after I put in a pint of developer mix. Then I only rock the tray in four different directions under the red safelight until the negative looks a little too dark. Then it goes in a water stop bath, then the hypo. I rinse the neg in about 8 changes of water over a 30 minute period. The reason to go a little past where the neg looks right as it will lose a little "pop" in the fixer. Over exposed combined with over developed causes soot and whitewash prints. One of the biggest advantages of ortho film stock is your ability to develop by inspection.
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
I should add that you should take your fotos all at the same time of day to start with. The reason for this is that orthochromatic film is blind to red light. So the speed rating changes during the day, being slowest at early morning and late afternoon. So fix one problem at a time. That's why I reccomend shooting at the same time of day at first. In the old days, they never put a film speed on the box because of this change of speeds depending on the time of day. Try a couple of more sheets, and if you have any questions, we will be more than happy to help you.
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
Thank you very much premortho!
The main key what help me to reaching better results is that: after development the x-ray negative is have to look like an ordinary negative! That was my first mistake: I did over developed the negatives as I see. :/ Anyway caused a bit of confusion to me the fact: my x-ray film is double coated. I thought it has to be darker then normal by this couse. :( Thank you to herded me in the right direction! It's helped me a lot! :)
Instinctively I never touched the negative in the tray, I only rock the tray a bit two different directions during the developing as I used to develop the ordinary negatives to keep the developer in countinous moving. My negatives anyway usually don't scratching in develop, but in the wahsing period when the emulsion alredy too soft... So if the negative is too scrathced I just peel the non exposed side by Clorox. It's help a bit.
Unfortunatelly the safe light doesn't help me too much in the darkroom - I don't like too much in red... :P But I try to get experience what is mean to me exactly the expression: the negative looks "a bit" too dark :)
So... the key in first: right exposing and don't over developing!
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2 Attachment(s)
Re: Images shot on X-ray film
Okay. Here are two files:
1. A scan of the neg as a color positive. As-is.
Attachment 108797
2. What the picture looks like after some cropping and not-a-lot of PS level setting.
Attachment 108796
Lens: Kodak 305 portrait
FILM: ordinary CSX green film.
ISO: 200
Metering: incident meter setting, held next to the doll face
Developer: d23 (stoeckler) 2-bath: bath 1: 5mg metol, 100mg sodium sulfite - bath 2: 10mg borax. One liter each.
Bath 1: 2 min. Bath 2: 5 minutes.
No Stripping.
After bath 1, the very-highs are just starting to appear. Bath 2 brings the highs up a little more, but really works on the shadows.
The result is a neg that is usable for easy scanning -- the density is such that the highs aren't screaming, and that's without stripping. I havn't tried it yet, but I imagine it'll do well at grade 1 or 2 as well.
I've played with other developers such as d76 and dektol and this 2-bath method is the best I've found so far.
Good news is that the chemicals -- metol and sodium sulfite -- are cheap and very available in bulk. And Borax is normal 20-mule-team.
George
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
Quote:
Originally Posted by
gbogatko
Okay. Here are two files:
1. A scan of the neg as a color positive. As-is.
Attachment 108797
2. What the picture looks like after some cropping and not-a-lot of PS level setting.
Attachment 108796
George
Thanks! :)
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
Quote:
Originally Posted by
lipi
So... the key in first: right exposing and don't over developing!
IMHO it takes a lot to actually overdelop properly exposed film, unless you got insanely aggressive developer.
I left film, both xray and regular in rotating development for hour/two without getting any ill effects with Rodinal, EFG , 110HC (different dillutions).
Only iffy one i didnt like was Pyro HD.
But then i am no expert of course ,nor do i use zone system.
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
Quote:
Originally Posted by
SergeiR
IMHO it takes a lot to actually overdelop properly exposed film, unless you got insanely aggressive developer.
I left film, both xray and regular in rotating development for hour/two without getting any ill effects with Rodinal, EFG , 110HC (different dillutions).
Only iffy one i didnt like was Pyro HD.
But then i am no expert of course ,nor do i use zone system.
Sergei! I just wondered about your photos! :) I did read your test with Rodinal vs Pyrocat and it's convinced me.
There was a big mistake by me when I did my own developing tests: I forget the fact that the 1:100 diluted Rodinal is tired after 2-3 sheets of film :( I t was a very deer error, it's coused a lot of false come-off about my kind of x-ray film ISO's for example. It seems I was too excited. I have to get slower.
Unfortunatelly I don't have enough spare time to photography, but I revisited my whole process from the photo taking to the developing methods/times and I just starting the whole from the beginning so no more experimentation by my own head, just doing what you're did and then refine the developing times/ISO rates! :) Consequently!!!!!!!! It's may would be easier if I could have same kind of films then youre, but as soon I'll get by my friend in USA. (In my country could not get "CXS" films)
So thank you Sergei, premortho for your advices and gbogatko for the raw scan! It's helped me a lot! :)
ps.: I guess I will take a try with the gbogatko's 2 tray developing process too if I could get the chemicals (it's hard in Hungary)... But first with Rodinal...
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
You see how his negative of the dolls looked? That is what you should shoot for. What I meant about developing a little darker than what looks right in the tray is just let it develop in the tray a little longer than you think of as "perfect". That's so it doesn't get lighter than "perfect" in the hypo. The more you develop under a red safelight (which you said you already tested), the easier the whole process will be for you. Don't turn on any whit light until the negative has been in the hypo for at least half the time it takes to completely fix it. Hopefully this will help you get along. If you don't have time to go out to photograph, try doing still lifes in your home. If the only time you have is in the evening, do your still life work under lights. If all you have is white lights, try two more steps of exposure, because "white" incandescent bulbs emit a lot of red light, which you will remember the film is blind to.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
lipi
Sergei! I just wondered about your photos! :) I did read your test with Rodinal vs Pyrocat and it's convinced me.
There was a big mistake by me when I did my own developing tests: I forget the fact that the 1:100 diluted Rodinal is tired after 2-3 sheets of film :( I t was a very deer error, it's coused a lot of false come-off about my kind of x-ray film ISO's for example. It seems I was too excited. I have to get slower.
Unfortunatelly I don't have enough spare time to photography, but I revisited my whole process from the photo taking to the developing methods/times and I just starting the whole from the beginning so no more experimentation by my own head, just doing what you're did and then refine the developing times/ISO rates! :) Consequently!!!!!!!! It's may would be easier if I could have same kind of films then youre, but as soon I'll get by my friend in USA. (In my country could not get "CXS" films)
So thank you Sergei, premortho for your advices and gbogatko for the raw scan! It's helped me a lot! :)
ps.: I guess I will take a try with the gbogatko's 2 tray developing process too if I could get the chemicals (it's hard in Hungary)... But first with Rodinal...
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
Ok, finally got an x-ray film image that makes me happy.
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3813/1...2bcb4d3e_b.jpg
12Dagor_Xray_f6.8_012014_WM by ScottPhoto.co, on Flickr
12" Dagor + Deardorff V8 + Kodak Mammography Film
7 minutes at 68 degrees. Rodinal. Trays.
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
It makes me happy, too; beautiful!
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
Tim, great. Congratulations! What dilution for the Rodinal?
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
Thanks guys! Lots of failures for one good one. I hope I can repeat it.
Jim, I used 40ml to 2l of distilled water.
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1 Attachment(s)
Re: Images shot on X-ray film
After I revisited my whole process finally I've got a nearly good x-ray photo... (relatively to the previous).
Primax RTG-G green latitude film @ ISO50 (source:http://medical-line.hu/mtermek/xray_film_green.htm just for hungarians)
DIY 18x24cm camera, unknown 210/f:9,5 brass lens @f11 1/50s with an compur shutter from an old Beier Precisa ( http://www.flickr.com/photos/oldlipi...7637508965354/ )
Develop: (too old) Rodinal 1:100, 7 min@22C, semi stand in trays
"Scan": exposed side of the negative in Canon Pixma MP282 multifunkcional home printer @600dpi (not a real scanner)
Attachment 109178
I promised to myself, I don't do anything while my fresh developer is not coming :)
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
Looks like a good exposure to me. Looks like the lens does not quite cover the film, but hey, it works. Congratulations.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
lipi
After I revisited my whole process finally I've got a nearly good x-ray photo... (relatively to the previous).
Primax RTG-G green latitude film @ ISO50 (source:
http://medical-line.hu/mtermek/xray_film_green.htm just for hungarians)
DIY 18x24cm camera, unknown 210/f:9,5 brass lens @f11 1/50s with an compur shutter from an old Beier Precisa (
http://www.flickr.com/photos/oldlipi...7637508965354/ )
Develop: (too old) Rodinal 1:100, 7 min@22C, semi stand in trays
"Scan": exposed side of the negative in Canon Pixma MP282 multifunkcional home printer @600dpi (not a real scanner)
Attachment 109178
I promised to myself, I don't do anything while my fresh developer is not coming :)
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
Rodinal lasts a long time in the original bottle. I've heard of people using previously opened Rodinal that was 50 years old with good results.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
premortho
Looks like a good exposure to me. Looks like the lens does not quite cover the film, but hey, it works. Congratulations.
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
Quote:
Originally Posted by
lipi
After I revisited my whole process finally I've got a nearly good x-ray photo... (relatively to the previous).
Attachment 109178
Only on this forum does a photo like this not arouse any questions. :)
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Ari
Only on this forum does a photo like this not arouse any questions. :)
:rolleyes:
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
Quote:
Originally Posted by
premortho
Looks like a good exposure to me. Looks like the lens does not quite cover the film, but hey, it works. Congratulations.
Yes it seems like a good exposure (just see the grey scale and the rates of highs and lows), but anyway I think the negative is slightly underdeveloped (thin). I guess this kind of film (PRIMAX RTG-G) is require a more concentrated developer e.g. Rodinal 1:50 dilution... or more developing times :)
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
Quote:
Originally Posted by
premortho
Rodinal lasts a long time in the original bottle. I've heard of people using previously opened Rodinal that was 50 years old with good results.
I don't sure... The old receipts are different the modern receipts. My 5 years ago opened Rodinal did crystallized and can't dissolved again perfectly even on higher temperatures... So I guess it's not perfect in this way. But anyway it's seems like working, just more grainy then the usually. And exhausting faster.
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
Quote:
Originally Posted by
ScottPhotoCo
Beautify elegant shot!
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
Quote:
Originally Posted by
gbogatko
...
Developer: d23 (stoeckler) 2-bath: bath 1: 5mg metol, 100mg sodium sulfite - bath 2: 10mg borax. One liter each.
Bath 1: 2 min. Bath 2: 5 minutes.
No Stripping.
After bath 1, the very-highs are just starting to appear. Bath 2 brings the highs up a little more, but really works on the shadows.
The result is a neg that is usable for easy scanning -- the density is such that the highs aren't screaming, and that's without stripping. I havn't tried it yet, but I imagine it'll do well at grade 1 or 2 as well.
I've played with other developers such as d76 and dektol and this 2-bath method is the best I've found so far.
Good news is that the chemicals -- metol and sodium sulfite -- are cheap and very available in bulk. And Borax is normal 20-mule-team.
George
George!
It is possible you are misswrote the receipt? Or it's an 1:1000 dilution?
My stoeckler D-23 receipt is same as you wrote but in grams instead milligrams...
Thanks!
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
Hi to everyone following this thread
Here is my first x ray film test Agfa ORTHO CP-G PLUS (green sensitive) :) I have some experience with high contrast technical film so I have decided to use diluted paper developer. My choice was neutol 1:30 Developed in a tray with red light on for 3:00 minutes. The result looks promissing
http://www.aparaty.tradycyjne.net/ko...0029511378.jpg
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1 Attachment(s)
Re: Images shot on X-ray film
Posted this in an older x-ray thread and did not get any feedback. I have a real "x-ray newbie" question (or two). I recently acquired a hundred sheet box of GE/Agfa Structurix D4 5x7 film. First I noticed that there is no notch code (duh!), and after research found that it has emulsions on both sides of the base (see attachment), but I'm not sure the film is completely symmetrical - the brochure says "To achieve a rugged surface, the top layer has received the matting agent." Which "top layer" - are there two top layers?
Anyway, should I assume that it doesn't matter how I load this in the film holders with the double emulsions?
Does anyone else have firsthand experience with this particular x-ray film? I haven't seen it referenced in any of the x-ray image threads, other than one mention and no actual shots. Any other insights about handling this film would be appreciated.
Attachment 109419
Thanks,
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
Wow, great looking image czmielek.
Beginners luck ?? :)
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
Most of x-ray films have emulsion on both sides with very few exeptions. This means they are very easily scratched. My Agfa ORTHO CP-G PLUS has one side a little more mated than the other. It is very hard to notice before the development but easier after. This may be the case with your film djdister. I have noticed absolutely no diference in image quality shooting on either side so it does not matter how you put it into the holders.
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
Quote:
Originally Posted by
ScottPhotoCo
Ok, finally got an x-ray film image that makes me happy.
12" Dagor + Deardorff V8 + Kodak Mammography Film
7 minutes at 68 degrees. Rodinal. Trays.
Nice one, indeed
-
Re: Images shot on X-ray film
Quote:
Originally Posted by
czmielek
Hi to everyone following this thread
Here is my first x ray film test Agfa ORTHO CP-G PLUS (green sensitive) :) I have some experience with high contrast technical film so I have decided to use diluted paper developer. My choice was neutol 1:30 Developed in a tray with red light on for 3:00 minutes. The result looks promissing
Back in days of my childhood we used same methol hydrochinon (spelling is off, i am sure) developer for both paper and film. Kept whole process way tidier ;)
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
Diluted paper developers are very helpful with high contrast films. In my example I see some uneven development on the window frame and the wall probably due to short development time. I will try to keep it in a tray for 1 minute longer next time.
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film
Quote:
Originally Posted by
czmielek
Most of x-ray films have emulsion on both sides with very few exeptions. This means they are very easily scratched. My Agfa ORTHO CP-G PLUS has one side a little more mated than the other. It is very hard to notice before the development but easier after. This may be the case with your film djdister. I have noticed absolutely no diference in image quality shooting on either side so it does not matter how you put it into the holders.
Thanks for the note. In the light, one emulsion side does look a bit darker than the other, but I'll just go and shoot some sheets and see what I get.
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Re: Images shot on X-ray film – Continuous / Drum Processing
Hello all!
As I don't have a dedicated darkroom space (small house in SoCal) it is very time consuming to set-up and tear down my bathroom darkroom to tray process my x-ray film. I have been wanting to try drum processing for a bit so I picked up a Jobo Expert Drum and a manual roller to give it a shot. I'm using Kodak Mammography film (Ektascan) so I don't need to worry about 2-sided emulsion. I have been using Rodinal/Adonal at 100:1 and getting fairly good (but not consistent) results in the trays.
Have any of you tried drum + continuous agitation to process your x-ray film?
I figure I'll try the following:
- Rodinal 100:1 for 9 minutes at 20 degrees. 5 minute pre-soak.
- XTOL 1:1 for 7 minutes at 20 degrees. No pre-soak.
I also have HC-110 (liquid form) and D-76 (powder form) here as possibilities. :)
Any other suggestions?