Use of X-ray film: technical discussion with example images

Greetings from a new user of this forum.

I just took the plunge and received a 100 sheet box of 8x10 Fuji HR-U green two sided film from an ebay dealer, and have had good early results cutting down to 4x5 and processing in D23 1:3 8-10 min., although somewhat dense. One thing I've learned from researching the green films, is that the blue base is partly for reducing eye strain, but also to reduce feedback from the phosphors on one side of the film with the emulsion on the other side, which makes sense. I assume, therefore, that in photography use, sharper results would occur when using a yellow, green, or orange filter which would reduce the amount of bluish light passing through the film. The fuzziness of these films is concerning to me. My initial impression of my negatives is how disturbing the blue base is to me, and how unimpressed I am with sharpness using a 10x loupe.

My testing with a K2 yellow filter gives me a 1 stop exposure loss, and a mild impression of better detail. Can others comment on this please? I have read backwards through this thread about 7 or 8 years and found nothing on this. I do mostly woodland landscape photography.

I processed using sandwich sized zip lock bags, which worked very well and gave zero scratches. In the past, I've used Arista Ortho Litho 3.0 costing 40 cents per sheet and Injet Media Regency Royal which is very similar, but costing 20 cents per sheet (4x5). Based on testing, I use them both at ei2, process in D23 1:7 for 2-4 minutes using constant agitation. I also use them for darkroom work. These types of film worked well for me in southern Arizona, but not so well in the midwest woodlands where there is so much less light. I much prefer the 10 cents per sheet cost of Fuji HR-U, the much higher speed (100), and the processing ease of being much lower in contrast, so don't mind the 2-sided fragility.

My plan is to routinely process using my old Doran Sheet Film daylight tank to process 12 sheets at a time using D23 1:7 in 10-12 minute range. I can develop, fix, wash, and dry without removing the fims using a small fan circulating air into the tank lying on its side. My observation is that the xray film is sensitive to over agitation. The ortho litho films are the opposite, being sensitive to under agitation when processed for low contrast. Those old plastic 4x5 processing tanks like the Doran or Yankee are wonderful provided you don't agitate hardly at all. This sure is fun

Welcome!

If you go back more than 7-8 years (15?), you'll see a post where I try yellow and green filters. The film always looked better when a yellow filter is used instead of none. I believe I also talked about the zip lock bag method but abandoned it in favour of flat- bottomed trays. Zero scratches. I do up to 14x17, always double sided green. Double-sided will always be slightly unsharp compared to single-sided, but it still has a look that I really dig. I have a few videos on my YouTube channel, and will add many more in the near future! :o
Welcome to the forum!

Thanks, Analog Andy and Tin Can for the welcome. It was your Analog Andy youtube videos on this topic that got me interested in xray. The one using your custom 14 by 17 with yellow filter and contact printing VanDyke Brown. I enjoy your videos, especially the carbon printing series.

I have read in this record length thread others using cheap plastic 4x5 daylite tanks for double sided film processing. Kinda like having a dozen cut film holders. My old Doran has been in storage for 20 years along with all my other film photography gear. Many example photos on flikr using 4x5 HR-U look sharp enough for 3-4X enlargement, so am heading that direction.

Andy IS an expert!

I just try to have fun

I use a DIY Gas Burst system with Rodinol, distilled water and TF5

I use KODAK hangers only

4 up 8X10, 8 up 5X7, and 16 up 4X5

The most fun is 2X3 sheet in a Can with waffle, an actual rare method

10 in a SS can, usually roll film

Next up 14X36" X Ray 2X

I see saw that in a tray

and of course weak Red Led safe light on all X-Ray

I even dry in the can

I’ve always used a K1 or K2 filter with green X-ray film.

Tin Can and xray film repurposers,

I've been using these 6W LED Lamps as ortho safelights: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...0?ie=UTF8&th=1

Current price is $5.99 for a two pack. These lamps are internally true red LED and have red bulb filter as well. Do not fog ortho litho film at 3 ft. distance. Do not fog FUJI HR-U indirectly at 8 feet with film exposed face up for 12 minutes.

The are not claimed to be safelights but work very well. FYI I continue to use caution. Thanks for all the information.

I use 1 or 2 watt and bounce it

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Alan Townsend

Tin Can and xray film repurposers,

I've been using these 6W LED Lamps as ortho safelights: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...0?ie=UTF8&th=1

Current price is $5.99 for a two pack. These lamps are internally true red LED and have red bulb filter as well. Do not fog ortho litho film at 3 ft. distance. Do not fog FUJI HR-U indirectly at 8 feet with film exposed face up for 12 minutes.

The are not claimed to be safelights but work very well. FYI I continue to use caution. Thanks for all the information.

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Another though I've concerning repurposing xray film for photography concerns light meters. This comment relates to orthochromatic films in general, not just green xray. Some use a cyan filter over tradition silicon meter cell. If only some smart phone app would turn off that pesky red channel data.

CdS photocells are still available in the US. I just got a bag of 30 on Amazon for about six bucks. These are outlawed in Europe now and will likely be unavailable in the US soon. Stock up soon. Many older cameras and light meters use them.

These cells have a similar frequency reponse to light as does orthochromatic films, blue and green sensitivity with little red response. They make excellent ortho light meters. All you need is a CdS cell and a electronic multimeter set to read ohms and a way to calibrate it. Find the reciprocal of resistance by dividing 1 by the resistance and you get the conductance of the cell, which is nearly linear with respect to light input over a broad range. Good for camera meter, darkroom enlarging meter, densitomer, etc. Acurrate enough for most uses when used with some some care, and dirt cheap in price, kinda like xray film.

Many years ago, guessing 45, I had a Popular Science, or was it Science and Mechanics photo meter, which consisted of several CdS cells, a meter unit with a needle, and a circular slide rule gadget that allowed using this for camera, enlarging, or densitometer. It was very cool in it's time, and worked well. Any body out there remember these? Just a few thoughts.

I shot 35 color for many years using Kodak instructions INSIDE the box

No meter from the 50's

Almost all slides perfect and I still have them