I just happen to have a couple gallon bags of D-19. I know this is x-ray developer, but does it work for pictorial uses of x-ray film? I guess I need to re-read from the beginning for developers that y'all use. Besides Diafine.
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I just happen to have a couple gallon bags of D-19. I know this is x-ray developer, but does it work for pictorial uses of x-ray film? I guess I need to re-read from the beginning for developers that y'all use. Besides Diafine.
D-19 isn't x-ray developer but it works fine for x-ray applications. X-ray developer gives a very long tonal scale without high contrast. X-ray applications require all the subtle tones to be reproduced but with good separation. D-19 is a higher contrast developer but quite different than any x-ray developer I've used. My applications require a contrast boost for some subjects and D-19 does that very well if used straight. In 1:1 or 1:2 it can produce very nice negs. My guess it would be fine for pictorial use if you work out the time and dilution. For my needs I've even considered D-11 with HP-5 but I haven't tried it yet.
A couple of questions from one completely ignorant about these films...
Are they notched so you know which side is which?
My developing method is strictly for one-sided film. Are mammography film and industrial x-ray film the only films we're talking about here that would be appropriate for my methods?
How do these films handle human skin? Blotchy, smooth, or fairly normal?
And I assume they fit the standard film holders? (My 11x14 Fidelity Medical Cassettes are the same size as my Fidelity film holder.)
Thanks muchly!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Sawyer
All common inexpensive X-ray films are double sided (emulsion on both sides) thus they do not need a notch to determine side. The 8x10 size does fit 8x10 film holders such as Fidelity, Lisco, etc. I haven't tried 11x14 yet, but have some and will soon.
The mammography film is single sided, but it doesn't seem to be available in the common pictorial film sizes such as 8x10..so it would have to be cut to size. It is also more expensive (for some reason).
Quote:
Originally Posted by venchka
Xtol, HC-110, D76 all work fine. Your developing time will have to be determined by trial and error.
I have taken to notching the xray film as I load it with a paper punch, so I always know which way is up.
Mark, I bought 8x10 Fidelity holders from a hospital that was using them for x-rays. I don't have 11x14 fidelitys but the film fits nicely in 11x14 sterling/graflex holders.
Since I cut the 8x10 sheet into 4 4x5 sheets, I end up with 4 rounded corners and I use the rounded corner as a "notch," mostly so that I always load the film in the same direction and can keep the commonality (routine) of loading and handling all my 4x5 film - - not because I need to worry about which side the emulsion is on. I started off with a paper punch making my own notch, but then I realized that i was using the rounded corner as a guide to the placement the punch... DUH, so why not use the rounded corner as the "notch"... But if you use the single sided film, then the rounded corner idea would not work.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason Greenberg Motamedi
By avoiding the 2-sided common X-ray film, you are eliminating the main reason for using X-ray film, and that is cost. The common blue-sensitive and green-sensitive 2-sided films are the ones that are cheap. If you are going to attempt to use the much more expensive mammography and/or industrial xray films, you might as well just use conventional private label sheet films from a vendor such as Freestyle.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Sawyer
Of course, the tonal rendition of a blue and/or green sensitive film is different than a panchromatic or orthochromatic film and that is another reason for using common x-ray film, as a creative tool, to interpret your vision in a different way.
Xray film is not panchromatic.
Your eyes will tell you, under a red safelite, if indeed there is any difference at all.
And if you use a tent or change bag- it doesn't matter- that's why no notches